Macan S Braking Improvement
#1
Macan S Braking Improvement
Finally a workable solution - read on.
When I examined the brakes on my ‘17 Macan S the fronts look massive and the rears are small but used on other performance cars without issue.
So I was frankly surprised about the quality of Macan S braking (pedal feel & bite) and was on the verge of selling the car after less than 5k miles. My concern was far too much pedal travel before any braking (unless the pedal was pumped) and after braking initiated it was mushy without any “bite”. Two visits to the dealer, at 400 and 4K miles, resulted in confirmation that the performance was typical, albeit unsatisfactory for me.
Next step was consulting a trusted local shop - given the apparent capabilities of the stock brakes, what’s possible to improve performance without going crazy? They approached this little science project on the same two fronts: pedal travel and bite.
The first steps were were to sort out pedal travel:
1) Full brake system clean out and fluid replacement, including pulsing the ABS system to clear all possible air or manufacturing debris that might be in the system. Result = no noticeable pedal feel or travel difference. Check.
2) Adjust brake pedal “threaded rod”. This rod controls the amount of travel for the brake pedal and has a switch connected that turns on the brake lights. WARNING: This is not an adjustment for the faint of heart. The shop team were extremely careful, making adjustments in very small increments followed by a test drive each time. If you go too far the switch could be broken or disabled. Be careful. Also, every vehicle will be a little different and every driver will have a different feel they prefer so no adjustment spec is provided here. Result = perfect pedal travel ~ 1 inch prior to engagement, no change in brake “bite”.
Once pedal travel was sorted out the next step was improving brake engagement bite, the only option being different brake pads. There are not many high performance pads available for the Macan S - only Hawk and EBC Yellowstuff. Fortunately EBC had front (DP42162R) and rear (42082) Yellowstuff pads available in stock.
1. The front pads only were installed, with new sensors 95B907253, followed by a one week break-in period. Result = very good bite, just a slight bit too much dive/front weight transfer.
2. The rear pads were installed and followed by another one week break-in period. Result - excellent bite, smooth and even braking.
Hopefully this will prove useful to others.
When I examined the brakes on my ‘17 Macan S the fronts look massive and the rears are small but used on other performance cars without issue.
So I was frankly surprised about the quality of Macan S braking (pedal feel & bite) and was on the verge of selling the car after less than 5k miles. My concern was far too much pedal travel before any braking (unless the pedal was pumped) and after braking initiated it was mushy without any “bite”. Two visits to the dealer, at 400 and 4K miles, resulted in confirmation that the performance was typical, albeit unsatisfactory for me.
Next step was consulting a trusted local shop - given the apparent capabilities of the stock brakes, what’s possible to improve performance without going crazy? They approached this little science project on the same two fronts: pedal travel and bite.
The first steps were were to sort out pedal travel:
1) Full brake system clean out and fluid replacement, including pulsing the ABS system to clear all possible air or manufacturing debris that might be in the system. Result = no noticeable pedal feel or travel difference. Check.
2) Adjust brake pedal “threaded rod”. This rod controls the amount of travel for the brake pedal and has a switch connected that turns on the brake lights. WARNING: This is not an adjustment for the faint of heart. The shop team were extremely careful, making adjustments in very small increments followed by a test drive each time. If you go too far the switch could be broken or disabled. Be careful. Also, every vehicle will be a little different and every driver will have a different feel they prefer so no adjustment spec is provided here. Result = perfect pedal travel ~ 1 inch prior to engagement, no change in brake “bite”.
Once pedal travel was sorted out the next step was improving brake engagement bite, the only option being different brake pads. There are not many high performance pads available for the Macan S - only Hawk and EBC Yellowstuff. Fortunately EBC had front (DP42162R) and rear (42082) Yellowstuff pads available in stock.
1. The front pads only were installed, with new sensors 95B907253, followed by a one week break-in period. Result = very good bite, just a slight bit too much dive/front weight transfer.
2. The rear pads were installed and followed by another one week break-in period. Result - excellent bite, smooth and even braking.
Hopefully this will prove useful to others.
The following 5 users liked this post by Blue997TT:
boxhead (07-28-2023),
GTS Daddy (04-15-2020),
Napoleon54x (04-25-2020),
thelaw_thechef (05-05-2020),
Zeus993 (07-30-2023)
#2
Rennlist Member
My new to me 2015 Macan S has the same brake feel. It comes from driving my C4S for many years. The brakes are nowhere near as responsive as 911s. It's something I have to get used to. The Macan is my daily driver, and the more I drive it, the brake feel becomes more normal feeling.
#3
What made you go with the yellow pads over the blue pads?
My macan has DPs and a tune and the stock brakes are woefully inadequate. was thinking of trying the blue pads right off the bat.
My macan has DPs and a tune and the stock brakes are woefully inadequate. was thinking of trying the blue pads right off the bat.
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I just put Hawk Ceramic Yellow pads on my wife's 997 and they're better than the HPS versions I had on before both in better initial bite and less dust.
While doing brake work, I would also upgrade to DOT approved braided stainless brake lines.
While doing brake work, I would also upgrade to DOT approved braided stainless brake lines.
#5
Rennlist Member
Interesting my GTS took me a while to get used to the bite. I had to lessen my pedal pressure otherwise it grabbed too quickly. Are there any differences between the S and GTS brakes?
#6
I had the same experience on my 18 Macan vs my Cayenne S with the Macan having way more bite. I installed the Redstuff pads to reduce dust and after the break in coating wore off the brakes are silent and have minimal dust. Brake feel is no different than with the OEM pads.
#7
Macan S brake improvement notes
Thanks to the folks who have commented, I really struggled with this issue, and have tried to address the questions below:
1. Macan GTS front rotors are larger diameter (360) and thicker (36) vs. the S (350) diameter and thickness (34), same exact rears (330/22).
2. Macan S front calipers and rotors are large and should be great “out-if-the-box”.
3. I have used braided lines on several race/track cars, mostly for safety from debris @160+ mph. Have not really seen any difference in pedal feel with braided lines vs. new (i.e., not aged out) Porsche OEM brake lines.
4. I picked EBC YELLOWSTUFF pads because I tested those on a couple of track cars, they were ok and didn’t squeal and importantly they were in stock. I didn’t consider more aggressive pads (reds) at this point in my R&D. Frankly would have preferred Pagid Blue that I have used for years on 911TT, BMW 3, 968, (super street performance, no squeal, last forever) but unforunately these are not produced for the Macan (are you listening PAGID? BIG market here).
5. Just changing pads is not a solution - that corrects bite but not pedal travel and feel. Both need to be addressed to correct this oversight by Porsche (actually to be fair, the braking is likely targeted to “normal” SUV buyers vs us).
Lastly, given a few extra bucks to upgrade you don’t have to compromise “or get used to” poor braking performance on your silly expensive vehicle. It has been several weeks now since the install and the Macan S is seriously transformed - it is a real Porsche now.
Have at it!
1. Macan GTS front rotors are larger diameter (360) and thicker (36) vs. the S (350) diameter and thickness (34), same exact rears (330/22).
2. Macan S front calipers and rotors are large and should be great “out-if-the-box”.
3. I have used braided lines on several race/track cars, mostly for safety from debris @160+ mph. Have not really seen any difference in pedal feel with braided lines vs. new (i.e., not aged out) Porsche OEM brake lines.
4. I picked EBC YELLOWSTUFF pads because I tested those on a couple of track cars, they were ok and didn’t squeal and importantly they were in stock. I didn’t consider more aggressive pads (reds) at this point in my R&D. Frankly would have preferred Pagid Blue that I have used for years on 911TT, BMW 3, 968, (super street performance, no squeal, last forever) but unforunately these are not produced for the Macan (are you listening PAGID? BIG market here).
5. Just changing pads is not a solution - that corrects bite but not pedal travel and feel. Both need to be addressed to correct this oversight by Porsche (actually to be fair, the braking is likely targeted to “normal” SUV buyers vs us).
Lastly, given a few extra bucks to upgrade you don’t have to compromise “or get used to” poor braking performance on your silly expensive vehicle. It has been several weeks now since the install and the Macan S is seriously transformed - it is a real Porsche now.
Have at it!
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#8
Rennlist Member
Great info....I’ve said for three years “these brakes suck”. Only time I didn’t think they sucked was when I briefly tracked the car and was just mashing the brake pedal. Great info and will likely use on our next Macan as we’re just waiting to Uograde when mid-cycle is done.
#9
Food For Thought:
1. Master cylinder upgrade: On my spyder pedal response was less than expected. Solution was to upgrade to a GT3 master cylinder. Problem solved. Perhaps the Macan GTS uses a bigger bore, or the current GT3 MC could work on a macan. Something to check out.
2. Doesn't someone make a "big brake kit" for the macan yet? Bigger rotors should give better stopping power if correctly balanced.
1. Master cylinder upgrade: On my spyder pedal response was less than expected. Solution was to upgrade to a GT3 master cylinder. Problem solved. Perhaps the Macan GTS uses a bigger bore, or the current GT3 MC could work on a macan. Something to check out.
2. Doesn't someone make a "big brake kit" for the macan yet? Bigger rotors should give better stopping power if correctly balanced.
#10
Thanks for the post MedTech
When I first started the research I looked at the Macan PET and the S and GTS used the same master cylinder, at least according to the version I have, so that was taken off the list. I also looked at big brake upgrades and found a nice Brembo package for the front, but $4,500. Again, not a serious option unless all other remediation attempts failed.
In the end, the treaded rod adjustment achieved most of what I was looking for - and my bet is that most folks who don't have race/track car brake bite preferences (many would say touchy brakes) would be fine with just that tweak and the stock pads (albeit with accepting the brake dust those throw off.) I wanted that extra bite so started with new pads on the front, which was a big improvement but not really balanced (too much nose dive.) When I added the rears everything came together - near perfect pedal modulation, smooth but excellent bite and no squeal or extra dust.
I am very pleased that I didn't go with just a big brake kit on the front as clearly that would not have produced a balanced braking package if just mis-matched pads had a unbalanced feel.
Thanks again for your post.
When I first started the research I looked at the Macan PET and the S and GTS used the same master cylinder, at least according to the version I have, so that was taken off the list. I also looked at big brake upgrades and found a nice Brembo package for the front, but $4,500. Again, not a serious option unless all other remediation attempts failed.
In the end, the treaded rod adjustment achieved most of what I was looking for - and my bet is that most folks who don't have race/track car brake bite preferences (many would say touchy brakes) would be fine with just that tweak and the stock pads (albeit with accepting the brake dust those throw off.) I wanted that extra bite so started with new pads on the front, which was a big improvement but not really balanced (too much nose dive.) When I added the rears everything came together - near perfect pedal modulation, smooth but excellent bite and no squeal or extra dust.
I am very pleased that I didn't go with just a big brake kit on the front as clearly that would not have produced a balanced braking package if just mis-matched pads had a unbalanced feel.
Thanks again for your post.
#12
Please help - 2018 Macan GTS - had oil change and 'brake flush' at dealer. Now brakes feel soft, mushy, no bite - they work but they fell like a 1988 Oldsmobile - not how they did before and not how a Macan with Turbo brakes should feel. Dealer says they are fine but I do not agree - any advice ? Thanks.
#13
Please help - 2018 Macan GTS - had oil change and 'brake flush' at dealer. Now brakes feel soft, mushy, no bite - they work but they fell like a 1988 Oldsmobile - not how they did before and not how a Macan with Turbo brakes should feel. Dealer says they are fine but I do not agree - any advice ? Thanks.
#14
Yes thanks Todd. I told them I have had multilple Porsches and I know what the brakes felt like/ and should feel like. They said they could drive it for a couple of days ??! to determine the issue - I suggested exactly what you suggest - let's drive two GTS's back to back. Sad if I have to go to my indie Porsche guy with a car that has 27,000 kms on it. Appreciate your help.
#15
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sounds like air to me too. If they let the reservoir go dry during the process, it could end up in the abs system which will require a Durametric or PIWIS system, though you may be able to bleed that by finding a road with some loose dirt or gravel and forcing the abs to activate a few times.
Best to let the dealer correct what they messed up.
Best to let the dealer correct what they messed up.