FYI: lowering links for air suspension....
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
FYI: lowering links for air suspension....
FYI: sent off templates of the factory lowering links to have new ones produced for the macan... should have the links done and in hand later next week..
will have photos as well of install and before/after results..
the "lower" button is 10mm below standard height
"offroad" button is 40mm above standard height
the "loading" button is 40mm below standard height (on rear)
my goal was to get 30-35mm lowering all around (from low mode)
that way on "normal" the car is only 20-25mm lower
and on "high" the car is 15-20mm over normal.
still undecided.. but obviously i would get desired height in "low" mode.. so that i could always ride in normal as well and not put as much stress on the airbags.
I will not be selling the links, but i can provide you contact information direct to the manufacturer which can sell to you at wholesale (Should be around $170 shipped ***EDIT $135 USD Shipped**)
.... normally links are 299/399++ depending... these are zinc coated and stainless steel.
(i'll update once the links are in)..
will have photos as well of install and before/after results..
the "lower" button is 10mm below standard height
"offroad" button is 40mm above standard height
the "loading" button is 40mm below standard height (on rear)
my goal was to get 30-35mm lowering all around (from low mode)
that way on "normal" the car is only 20-25mm lower
and on "high" the car is 15-20mm over normal.
still undecided.. but obviously i would get desired height in "low" mode.. so that i could always ride in normal as well and not put as much stress on the airbags.
I will not be selling the links, but i can provide you contact information direct to the manufacturer which can sell to you at wholesale (Should be around $170 shipped ***EDIT $135 USD Shipped**)
.... normally links are 299/399++ depending... these are zinc coated and stainless steel.
(i'll update once the links are in)..
Last edited by rijowysock; 08-02-2014 at 05:21 PM.
#4
"so that i could always ride in normal as well and not put as much stress on the airbags."
I have to proclaim ignorance here, could you explain this a little more. Does this imply that you think an inch lower would be outside of tolerances and put extra stress on the airbags?
I have to proclaim ignorance here, could you explain this a little more. Does this imply that you think an inch lower would be outside of tolerances and put extra stress on the airbags?
#6
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
"so that i could always ride in normal as well and not put as much stress on the airbags."
I have to proclaim ignorance here, could you explain this a little more. Does this imply that you think an inch lower would be outside of tolerances and put extra stress on the airbags?
I have to proclaim ignorance here, could you explain this a little more. Does this imply that you think an inch lower would be outside of tolerances and put extra stress on the airbags?
when a vehicle has shocks/springs... and you lower it.. generally you replace the normal oem spring with a progressive spring.. this means while the car is lower (and shock is more compressed) that the new spring does not expand/contract the same amount as stock... this way the shock travel amount stays generally the same (compression wise) and the load on the shock isn't adversely affected as much... with lowering springs your stock shocks always eventually give out, from being compressed even at rest.
with air suspension, the suspension is obviously made to change heights, but obviously has a max up and down amount... made to ride in "low mode" and still have compression for bumps.. you can easily cheat another inch or two but obviously this then puts stress on the shock from being compressed even at its natural height... so it's nice to be able to then "raise" the car to decrease the stress..
day to day, you can ride in low mode... but if bad roads/etc you can raise it up and less stress on the shock.
you could also go from your "lowered" height to "low mode" and have the car dumped for appearances when parked/etc.
we have a rolls royce ghost and wraith with lowering links on both, and the ride quality is still great but it's never driven in "low" mode as u can feel the shock bottom out.. but "slightly" lowered (2") it's fine... but when parked it goes to "low mode"
it's complicated, but lowering a vehicle will always stress the shocks... this is why a triple perch coilover exists.. so u adjust the length of the shock rather than where the spring sits on the shock.. so you still have full shock travel.
as stated, once i test them and they make an official batch, ill give you guys their info to order direct... most shops charge 300/400 for links... these are direct from manufacturer and will be less than $150..
i got pics today of the test set they made and are shipping to me. they have the same bend as stock on front... but i have to install and run them to check how they work/etc.
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#8
#10
Ok that one is a bit much. As much as I like the lower stance and I would like it an inch lower than low on the AS, I'm also damned near certain that we will never get any guidance from Porsche as to an acceptable range for long term durability(Unless they offer it). So I'm probably not doing any mods.
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
got the links in today.. myself and manufacturer weren't sure if they needed to be longer or shorter to lower vehicle (trial and error as all cars are diff)
turns out they need to be shorter.. we only allowed for 6mm shorter which gave 12mm drop (1/4" shorter gave 1/2" drop)
turns out they need to be shorter.. we only allowed for 6mm shorter which gave 12mm drop (1/4" shorter gave 1/2" drop)
Last edited by rijowysock; 08-20-2014 at 01:15 PM.
#13
The desired rod length would fit the new gap formed between a fixed position sensor and the moveable suspension arm after a ride height drop. If the ride height change narrows the gap to the fixed position sensor, the link would need to be shorter.
The sensor arm not moving is key, since it will be at its correct ride height electronically measured if it doesn't move.
The sensor arm not moving is key, since it will be at its correct ride height electronically measured if it doesn't move.