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I will upload pics later but TOB is identical to one on original PP and when placed over guide tube moves freely. As does Friction plate on splines. TOB inside diameter identical on both old TOB and new. Also checked old 4 puck friction plate , thickness more like 7mm .
That guide tube has a groove in it. That is supposed to be dead smooth. Something is not right there. Also double check the pins on the three straps on the pressure plate. if a pin is not pressed right it can cause a tilted engagement of the clutch like you are seeing.
Hi Bob, Dan
thanks for the replies . The pilot feels ok. I'll take a look at the straps / springs . I noticed the guide tube also. It looks worse in pictures than it actually is. But there does look like witness marks on the new throw out too. None on the older one. I am going to look a bit closer at that. I have purchased a new six puk solid plate (recommended by Fstock) as when i do button it back up I want some confidence it's not going to do it again. Though in fairness i don't think it's the friction plate.
For anyone following and those with this in their future It may be useful to note that:
The 6 puk Kennedy /Patrick Motorsports friction plate is 8mm thick when new (marked on the box) 8.3mm measured 1mm depth to flat face of rivets
The clubsport friction plate is apprx 8.8mm with very few laps on. There is 2mm depth to the flat face of the rivets .
All measured with cheap vernier !
Turns out the marks on the Guide tube were dust / debris being held in by grease!. Gave the guide tube and the throw out a good clean and now are both mark free. No actual groove at all. Can be a little blowy in my garage and the box is on the floor . I might have inadvertently transferred the crap onto the throw out when trail fitting it. It's just as possible that in my hast to get the clutch done last time i forgot to clean the guide tube up ! Ahem. Checked straps / rivets and they are identical on both old and new PP. .
I realised that I never updated this , so. Basically the new Kennedy 6 puk plate solved the issue . Clutch works perfectly . Just my technique that needs a lot of improvement now.
Without re: reading this entire thread, I recently had a new factory clutch fitted to my 996 cup as my AP Racing twin plate finally died after many years of abuse. On the new clutch the friction disc was sprung like the one in your pic. Does Porsche no longer offer the 4 puck solid version? The clutch shifts nice and it’s really easy to operate when moving around the paddock so I am pleased with it. Just wondering what the advantage of the solid puck style friction disc is by comparison to the sprung round friction disc?
The disc in the picture is for 996 club sport , not cup . In theory it should work but never did for me. The reason I was going to use it was for much of the reasons you state . The puk discs are far more on off and more suited to the high idle that cups run at . Clearly as you have the same disc in yours it must work ? Are you certain you have a cup flywheel ?
Im not sure on the part number for the flywheel. I’d have to check that with my shop. I was somewhat curious as to whether it was a road car clutch that was fitted when I revved it up from idle (not as responsive as the twin plate). However once out on track I found the shifts to still be very quick and not that different from my twin plate and rev matching very easy. The bite point of the clutch is low down in terms of pedal travel, much lower than the dual mass set up in my 996 GT3 road car.
Without re: reading this entire thread, I recently had a new factory clutch fitted to my 996 cup as my AP Racing twin plate finally died after many years of abuse. On the new clutch the friction disc was sprung like the one in your pic. Does Porsche no longer offer the 4 puck solid version? The clutch shifts nice and it’s really easy to operate when moving around the paddock so I am pleased with it. Just wondering what the advantage of the solid puck style friction disc is by comparison to the sprung round friction disc?
I would never ever use a sprung disc on a 6Cup. The sprung disc is much less durable and will put more wear and tear on the synchros due to the increase in the MOI of the nearly twice heavier sprung street disc compared to the lightweight 4 puck disc. You will notice this when the gearbox gets very hot on extended sessions and becomes a bit "crunchy" during fast shifts. The sprung street disc is also slightly thicker than the Cup 4 puck disc which will move the engagement point down closer to the floor on the pedal stroke. The clutch throw effectively becomes longer with the street disc effectively slowing down the shift a bit. If you used a clutch stop before, you will need to remove it when using the street disc in order to get full disengagement during shifts. Honestly, installing the sprung street disc is not a great idea but doable if you are aware of the shortcomings that come with it. Yes, paddock behavior will be better but is that really that important? Just my $0.02 of course.
The 4 puck disc is available directly from Sachs. It's not expensive and nearly bullet proof. The 996Cup flywheel part number you were asking about is 964.102.239.81
Last edited by powdrhound; 04-17-2024 at 12:01 PM.
interesting points a few i hadn't really thought about. I couldn't get the setup to work and sounds like removing the stop might have helped though i thought the clutch was fully released by the time it hits the stop? I had measured the discs and assumed it moved the bite point. I do get your points. for me when i do get to use the car which is extremely infrequently it's for track days only and it usually requires quite a bit of moving around the paddock, it's not a massive issue but a less aggressive clutch helps. I could probably live with the trade off. In the end i went for the kennedy 6 puk which is a pretty good trade off and solved all the issues i had with the clubsport disc. Shame you weren't around when i first posted this i may have made the decision to change the plate a lot sooner.
02-15-2018, 05:32 AM
