KMP Paddle Shift Cooling
07-11-2017, 09:19 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thx. So, assuming you eliminate the lever for the benefits of having the shifter right on the trans and you're in Stu's situation or puttering around under double yellows etc., you wouldn't normally be braking too heavily, but if you need to downshift- maybe you do. Does that manage the issue, or is that even unnecessary.
07-11-2017, 09:23 PM
#17
Drifting
Thx. So, assuming you eliminate the lever for the benefits of having the shifter right on the trans and you're in Stu's situation or puttering around under double yellows etc., you wouldn't normally be braking too heavily, but if you need to downshift- maybe you do. Does that manage the issue, or is that even unnecessary.
If I'm in a situation where a downshift must be made, I just make sure I apply some brake prior. Without the brakes, the shift is just less than clean.
07-11-2017, 09:53 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
07-19-2017, 01:22 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
I have had an issue with the 1st gen of KMP compressor going into safety, leading to not finishing the first race of the day in a not so warm climate. We added some ducts from the cockpits vents to the compressor, and it did the trick to finish the racing day without any trouble.
Afterwards, I updated to the gen 2 compressor (basically, it seems that there is a bigger radiator, and no safety ;-)) and kept the ducting --> not any compressor issue since.
On the "keep the stock" side, it really dépends on how you want to approach the thing : It may be a safety net if your goal is to really finish at all cost, but... it will be at the expense of more wear on your gearbox : You won't have any auto-blipper (and everyone knows with we all installed them before our paddle shifters...), and you will add some lag in your shifts, because of the actuator piston that will still need to move (manually in this case).
So, from my side of the budget, I prefer the more precise shifting of having the actuator directy on the gearbox when everything works fine, and DNF of that fails, instead of putting more wear on the tranny, wanting to finish.
As usual, to each his own. On my side, I won't get paid more or less should I finish or not, but I am sure to have to pay for the rebuild of the gearbox... later better than sooner ;-)))
Afterwards, I updated to the gen 2 compressor (basically, it seems that there is a bigger radiator, and no safety ;-)) and kept the ducting --> not any compressor issue since.
On the "keep the stock" side, it really dépends on how you want to approach the thing : It may be a safety net if your goal is to really finish at all cost, but... it will be at the expense of more wear on your gearbox : You won't have any auto-blipper (and everyone knows with we all installed them before our paddle shifters...), and you will add some lag in your shifts, because of the actuator piston that will still need to move (manually in this case).
So, from my side of the budget, I prefer the more precise shifting of having the actuator directy on the gearbox when everything works fine, and DNF of that fails, instead of putting more wear on the tranny, wanting to finish.
As usual, to each his own. On my side, I won't get paid more or less should I finish or not, but I am sure to have to pay for the rebuild of the gearbox... later better than sooner ;-)))
07-19-2017, 03:05 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thx cid. We're ordering a new KMP kit this week and will dispense with the lever <sniff> for the reasons you mentioned. After analyzing it, it just made the most sense on balance.
I know you said that you kept your ducting- do you use a bilge blower with it- if so, what happens if you don't turn it on?
I know you said that you kept your ducting- do you use a bilge blower with it- if so, what happens if you don't turn it on?
07-19-2017, 06:10 PM
#23
I have run 4 kits in different cars here in NZ and the only issue I ever came across was the cooling as mentioned, and that was during the last race before our car came to a wall crunching end. And I know a simple blower fan on the compressor will put a bandaid on it. The best solution is to upgrade to the new compressor.
One other advantage guys if you don't already know about it, is to send your GCU unit back to KMP and get them to upgrade it to the new generation 2 GCU. The new GCU self adjusts the gear pot voltage, as apposed to you having to recalibrate the gear pot to 3.84v. I know that if the gear pot goes out of its range during a race for some reason, it usually refuses to shift up or down, or at worst case refuses to shift at all.
One other advantage guys if you don't already know about it, is to send your GCU unit back to KMP and get them to upgrade it to the new generation 2 GCU. The new GCU self adjusts the gear pot voltage, as apposed to you having to recalibrate the gear pot to 3.84v. I know that if the gear pot goes out of its range during a race for some reason, it usually refuses to shift up or down, or at worst case refuses to shift at all.
07-20-2017, 03:49 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thx cid. We're ordering a new KMP kit this week and will dispense with the lever <sniff> for the reasons you mentioned. After analyzing it, it just made the most sense on balance.
I know you said that you kept your ducting- do you use a bilge blower with it- if so, what happens if you don't turn it on?
I know you said that you kept your ducting- do you use a bilge blower with it- if so, what happens if you don't turn it on?
09-01-2017, 08:18 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Just tried out the new KMP shifter today and have to say it works great. We did a complete refit so the actuator right on the gearbox. A few +30 min sessions in 80's- no overheating (with bilge blower). Only used the clutch for low speed/rpm/load downshifts and no issues. Haven't tried Hollinger or any other race paddleshifter to make a comparison, but I'm very happy with KMP - one day in mind you.