Michelin PSI
#3
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vacuuming Cal Speedway
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5 Posts
Because the weight is largely in the rear, I set the fronts 1 lb. higher than the rears. They simply won't gain as much temp as the rears. I also stagger the pressures side-to-side depending upon which direction we're running. So I would start out 20f, 19r on the outside tires, 21f, 20r on the inside set.
If you're running on a seriously banked oval like Daytona, I would lower the outside rear temp another pound. All this is assuming you're driving the bleep out of the car. If you're just learning and taking it easy (good idea), I would add a pound or 2 all around. If the tracks really cold (40-50) I would also add a lb. or 2 especially for the first session....
Regardless of where you start I agree with Jim that 28 hot is optimum. Oh and use Niotrogen in your slicks....
If you're running on a seriously banked oval like Daytona, I would lower the outside rear temp another pound. All this is assuming you're driving the bleep out of the car. If you're just learning and taking it easy (good idea), I would add a pound or 2 all around. If the tracks really cold (40-50) I would also add a lb. or 2 especially for the first session....
Regardless of where you start I agree with Jim that 28 hot is optimum. Oh and use Niotrogen in your slicks....
#5
Huge dependence on track: Smooth tracks and desert tracks like higher PSI (Utah, Laguna, etc) in the area of 31-32 hot. Other tracks like Sebring, Atlanta, etc like about 27-28 hot. To get at 27-28 hot you may end up starting at around 17-18 cold. If you do, bring them up gently - no curbs or hard driving for the warm up lap.
If you experience 'chattering' (when the fronts and or rears are sliding and the car sort of skips instead of drifts) you are too low on pressure.
If you experience 'chattering' (when the fronts and or rears are sliding and the car sort of skips instead of drifts) you are too low on pressure.