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As for he dipstick the manual states the ball needs to be wetted but that is when the car is running and up to temp.
Since its been sitting I would drain all oil and see if there is any contamination from water or fuel to be safe.
The connector in the pass side I am not sure what thats for.
In our car we have that one too I think and some others.
Our car did have lighted numbers for the 25 hr so had extra wiring.
Last part the engine harness part that is a cover and should be able to kinda snap it back in place.
oh and the fuel cell should be 100 liter with probably 4 in tank scavenge pumps and 2 main pumps 1 primary and 1 reserve.
also the guarded switch on the lower right I would guess is part of the paddles for the emergency bypass
on the Megaline we have and pic posted above from from dogger15 is for emergency.
it bypasses the ecu part of the shifter so you can shift with no protection from the system.
ie...if there is a problem with the system and it stops shifting you can force it with out the over rev protection
Two additional observations: From the picture of your suspension, it appears that your car is sporting Cup S or Grand Am spec parts (former Orbit Racing?). The wishbone has the replaceable spindle bushing that Porsche issued a service bulletin on last month. Also, you mentioned being unable to locate premium ethanol free fuel in your area. If your car is equipped with an uprated engine (higher compression, more cam), you are going to need at least 100 RON fuel. Check for VP, Renegade, Sunoco, etc. race gas dealers. Even if your engine is stock, Porsche recommends a minimum of 98 RON. If you intend to self support, you can buy it by the drum (55gal), and have it delivered to your place or purchase at many tracks during supported events.
Finally, since the car has been sitting with unknown quality fuel in the cell for a while, I recommend you check the foam inside the cell. The shop that maintains my car does that as a matter of course and often finds that the foam breaks down and will clog the in tank pumps causing expensive problems.
As for he dipstick the manual states the ball needs to be wetted but that is when the car is running and up to temp.
Since its been sitting I would drain all oil and see if there is any contamination from water or fuel to be safe.
The connector in the pass side I am not sure what thats for.
In our car we have that one too I think and some others.
Our car did have lighted numbers for the 25 hr so had extra wiring.
Last part the engine harness part that is a cover and should be able to kinda snap it back in place.
oh and the fuel cell should be 100 liter with probably 4 in tank scavenge pumps and 2 main pumps 1 primary and 1 reserve.
Thanks. I'll get a hold of that company next week and see what they have and can tell me. The shop also kept the software, so I need a copy of that in case anything goes wrong or needs to be changed. Even if I had thought to ask for it they might have still kept it, judging by other things they did. Like keeping the blipper that had been on the car, that I asked for. I never did check to see how much those systems cost. I guess I'm going to have to figure out how to get the car off the ground to drain the oil. I don't have the needed wand or regulator to use the jacks. I can probably google who sells that stuff. I do have a big nitrogen tank that was in a building I bought years ago. I the tank is bigger than stock. Who should I go to for those? Is there a drain on the bottom? Any idea where to get fuel cans with a fitting to work with those fills?
Two additional observations: From the picture of your suspension, it appears that your car is sporting Cup S or Grand Am spec parts (former Orbit Racing?). The wishbone has the replaceable spindle bushing that Porsche issued a service bulletin on last month. Also, you mentioned being unable to locate premium ethanol free fuel in your area. If your car is equipped with an uprated engine (higher compression, more cam), you are going to need at least 100 RON fuel. Check for VP, Renegade, Sunoco, etc. race gas dealers. Even if your engine is stock, Porsche recommends a minimum of 98 RON. If you intend to self support, you can buy it by the drum (55gal), and have it delivered to your place or purchase at many tracks during supported events.
Finally, since the car has been sitting with unknown quality fuel in the cell for a while, I recommend you check the foam inside the cell. The shop that maintains my car does that as a matter of course and often finds that the foam breaks down and will clog the in tank pumps causing expensive problems.
Yes I bought it from Orbit. I was told the car would be fine on 92/93 octane. ?? I was not told anything about it being uprated, and I'm pretty sure that would have been a selling point. There used to be places in town to by race fuel bu they have gone away. I buy it in 5 gallon buckets for some of my KTM dirtbikes, but have never tried to buy a 55gal drum. I think until I figure out who much I can drive the car, I should just pay the inflated price at the track. I know it lasts for a while, but I'm not sure how much I would go through in a weekend, or a day event. Maybe more than I think. That's a good idea on the fuel cell foam. I guess I just take out that ring of bolts around the fill points? And that they have threaded captured nuts or something so it can happen from the top? "The wishbone has the replaceable spindle bushing that Porsche issued a service bulletin on last month." What's the deal with this? They having failures? If so what's the upgrade? Thanks so much.
From reading one of your earlier posts it looks like you purchased the car in the fall of 2013.
I'd consider shipping the car to a shop that knows these cars and their systems and have them go through it before trying to run it. Also consider having someone out from that shop who can walk you through the process, even if it means buying them a round trip ticket.
I also have a few practical event questions. The car does not have a passenger seat. I remember some events I went to in the past, where they would make you take an instructor with you until they signed you off. I have a couple very light carbon seats from the BMW days. You think they would let that fly?
The side windows have also been taken out in order to keep it cooler inside. Do they require netting at drivers schools or at club races?
I have a plastic neck brace for dirtbikes, that I never wear because I couldn't look down at the bike when riding, that will do sort of the same thing but not hook to the helmet, but I suppose I really should get a Hans device? [ I watched a few videos on a proper HANS and without some modifications this neck brace will likely not do the same thing. I'd delete the photo and remove the text but I can not see that option. ]
I can't fit into my old OMP driving suit, is one required or can I just wear cotton? Nomex underwear required with a suit? Maybe just in club racing?
I think I bought new belts for the car but I can't remember. I'll have to look at the tags. How old can they be? If I do need a passenger seat and new drivers belts, I wonder if I could get away with using the old bets for the passenger seat, since that might only be used for a few laps?
From reading one of your earlier posts it looks like you purchased the car in the fall of 2013.
I'd consider shipping the car to a shop that knows these cars and their systems and have them go through it before trying to run it. Also consider having someone out from that shop who can walk you through the process, even if it means buying them a round trip ticket.
Thanks for that. Ha. Might be some good info in that thread. I really can't keep track of years anymore but it might have been 2013. At least that appears to be when I was looking at it. The care was service and on the track after that. I constantly have a lot of irons in the fire at once. This is just one of them.
04-13-2019, 01:02 PM
