Fair price for this base Cayman 2011 ?
#7
If I had the $ I'd buy the 09 for $21k
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#8
Race Director
Next my usual advice is visit the NADA and KBB sites and feed the web site the car's details and see what the wholesale-trade-in values are and that is your starting point for price negotiation provided the car is worth owning.
To know this you need a thorough check out of the car. I don't have time to post my usual detailed road test but you must spend time at or in the car with the engine running and on the road with the car first being driven like you intend to drive the car then with you driving the car over the same route driving the car the same way the selller drove the car.
Afterwards if the car is still in the running so to speak then do a used car check out verifying every system works. From head lights to tail lights, spoiler, A/C, power seats, everything. If you can get your hands on the check list the techs use for CPO'ing a car that's a good list to use. You won't be able to do all the checks but enough of them to have a pretty good feel for the car.
If the car in question has been properly services 50K miles is nothing. (My 2002 Boxster is up to over 310K miles and still runs just fine. Likewise my 2003 996 Turbo at over 155K miles.)
A plus too to a car having some miles is the car costs less and therefore will depreciate less and depreciation is the biggest expense to owning a car.
'course it is a fact that even though during your check out the car has no issues it will develop issues over time as you drive the car, add miles to the car.
Eventually the water pump will get noisy (or leak) and will have to be replaced. The fuel pump will quit.
But the car can deliver if you want probably many times that initial 50K miles in relatively trouble free driving over the years.
#10
Race Director
(Dealers of course use "back of the book" which is a number they obtain by being able to track/follow auction prices of various similar cars. The value a car dealer assigns to a car is what he can get for the car at an auction in the event the car doesn't sell of his lot in what ever time frame he is wiling to floor the car.)
The only people who know the "street value" of a particular car are those who have bought the car or can relate directly what was paid and the paritculars for a car, that is MY, make, mileage, condition, options, etc.
This info is scarce and unless one is very lucky he gets numbers that probably will not apply very closely to the car he is interested in. Thus he ventures forth with an overly optimistic opinion of what a car is worth or a too pessimistic opinion of what a car is worth.
In the first case he overpays for the car. In the 2nd he probably doesn't get the car because he has assigned too low a price to the car.
I have found the few times I've used the info the values offered by KBB and NADA very helpful in helping me arrive at a price for a car.
'course, you can choose to arrive at a price by any means you want.
And I have to repeat get "fair" out of the discussion for used car prices. What is "fair"? From the seller's point of view a fair price is what he's asking for the car so then pay the asking price and be comforted by the fact you paid a "fair" price for the car.
#12
After more than a year of searching, I just bought a pristine well-optioned 2011 Cayman base 6MT-low-mid $30s. Based on the previous cars I had shopped, I considered it a fair price, maybe $2k below market.
#15
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