Terry T.

I'm curious if anyone has installed these on their car, either the Porsche OEM ones or the Tarrett versions. Specifically, I'm interested in knowing whether you need to do both front and rear to balance the car, or whether just doing the fronts works well.

Thanks all!

Terry

Georound

There are a million posts....invest some time and make your own decisions....

altonj

Hi Terry,

Great question, and nothing wrong with asking even if you have searched already.

The first question I would ask is why you think you need them. If the answer is you want more front camber than the stock arms can produce, then perfect. We have installed many sets of front GT3 control arms on the 987 chassis. Our own 3.8 powered Cayman has this exact set up.

The factory parts comes with a rubber based bushing on the inner pivot point. Tarett uses the factory arm but offers the choice to substitute the inner portion for a monoball part. You can also opt for an adjustable castor "puck" in the arm made by Tarett or other companies. Generally, for street and DE use, the factory arm is just fine. Set the castor to the max position in the factory arm and you will be good to go. If you want the ultimate in adjustability and performance go with the monoball inner pivot and solid adjustable castor puck.

That said, the monoball inner pivot when used on the street (in an average climate) will wear more quickly than the factory rubber part. It really would take a pro driver (or exceptional DE driver) to notice the difference between the two.

The front GT3 control arm will offer you all the camber you will need for use up to an including race slicks. The rear stock geometry will allow enough adjustment range to match what you can get out of the front GT3 set up.

Bill Lehman

Short Answer, Front LCA only have allowed me -3.4 including a little lowering. Got -2.5 R with stock LCA and a little lowering.

ALE

If you are interested, pm me, I'm about to list a spare set of Porsche brand gt3 LCA's.

zedcat

Don't forget you will need shims as well to get the camber you want. Rule of thumb is about 10mm of shims for -1 deg. If stock arms got near -1 which is typical and you want -2 deg, then you need 10mm of shims. If you have PDLS you also need a bracket for that. In addition to front LCAs I got Tarett rear toe arms. Not needed to get more neg camber in rear but easier to adjust.

ALE

Zedcat is right. I have the bracket and shims to accompany the LCAs.
Best of luck, you will enjoy the setup.

Terry T.

PM sent. Thank you!

Terry T.

Thanks to all who gave useful answers.

Georound, I did a lot of research but was unable to find an answer to the question I asked. That's why I posted what I did. This forum is mostly made up of nice people who want to help. I know--I'm one of them. Perhaps you were having a bad day.

Terry

Georound

Not having a bad day at all. If you look back at my posts, I too, am extremely helpful. Over 200+ posts, I've offered advice, offered to help fix cars, reset codes all for people I've never met.
None of the answers above about lower control arms are secret or even hard to find.

I bought used LCAs from a member on this this board a couple of years ago for my 987.1. I knew all about shims, camber, replacing the pins on RSS arms etc etc etc by reading older threads. I made an informed decision based on reading years worth of knowledgable posts from other members.
Many of us have put on LCAs. Most do only the front. There are other things to buy for the rear. Some put on solid bushings, others rubber. Ride height, corner balance, shocks, anti-Sway bars, LCAs...it's a system.
Here's what I think: Did they improve the handling; yes. Worth the money; only if you are burning through tires. Did I get any value from them when I sold the vehicle, no. In fact, made the car harder to sell. People like OEM/stock.

To be honest, your colloquial "Learn me up" title just rubbed me a bit the wrong way. Seemed like a Millennial, spoon feed me, type statement. That's how I perceived it. Take it for what it's worth.

badabing

I too am interested in GT3 LCA. 2010 987.2 CS which sees heavy DE use.

Ran the car on totally stock suspension last year with camber maxed out front and rear. -.8 / -1.8

I just had a GT3 front swaybar put in since the subframe came down for other work.

However I was advised to use the GT3 LCA in conjunction with camber plates up top.

The reasoning was that by using LCA alone you are achieving the increased camber by just pushing the bottom of the wheel out and this is 'not good'. Something about increasing front track width?

With the camber plates you pull in from the top.

Can someone explain this to me?

If you do both, how do you know how much adjustment to make at each end?

Bill Lehman

I ran GT3 LCA on Caymans for years with no issues. Camber plates are not required. You can get sufficient negative camber by keeping the top of the strut in the inboard position and shimming the LCA. You need about 10 mm of shims/-1 degree camber. A Cayman wants about -3 f and -2.5 R for most R-comps tires, more if running Hooisers.

gt4addict

i am in the same boat too, was thinking about GT3 LCA or RSS adjustable arms.

i found RSS comes in a package with all the shims and fully adjusted, with price lowered than gt3 ones,
any pros and cons between the two? which one is easier to install?

btw i am looking at -3 camber at the front,

thx

zedcat

I went with the kit of Porsche parts from Suncoast. Includes control arms, trailing arms, hardware and a few shims. I needed some additional shims. No experience with RSS, I just liked the idea of staying with factory parts.

Not sure what fully adjusted means on the RSS parts. You'll still need to do a full alignment after swapping the parts.

I did about neg 2.5 in the front. I still drive on the street and to/from the track. Generally tire wear is even with NT01s.

bernb6

Deleted by poster because of incorrect information.