Pnug

There are too many engines with blue paint on them to be remanufactured or test fails. The percentages are too high. The IMS is much less of an issue than the oil starvation and rod bolts. I don't think I've seen one report of an IMS failure on a 987.1 Cayman or Boxster reported on Planet-9. Tracking one of these cars without some preventative measures especially if you modify the suspension and tire setup is just asking for trouble. You would at least need to add a deep slump and change the oil pickups to the 996 swirl pots. Everything past that is starting to get into some real money.

I don't think that there is any difference in engine reliability wise between the manual and the auto other than miss shifts.

ECS Tuning

@Pnug In the owners manual it says to never "lug the engine". For the Cayman S what does this mean, no sub 3k driving? Is 2600rpm on the highway in 6th okay (not up hill)?

First of all I think you definitely made the right choice going with the Cayman S, congrats on the purchase !!

In response to your question: Lugging means, Driving at low speeds in high gears, which bogs it down. Like if you were to shift from 3rd to 5th at 2,500 RPM, it would lug the engine. It's really more of a problem, more below 2,000 RPM in 2nd-6th gears. Hope this helps and that your getting to enjoy your Cayman.

I would also consider going with the Euro Side Markers, I think it would look great on the Red Exterior.

Climarepair.com

No issues here with my ex cayman

BoulderGeek

After lying dormant for five years, I think that this thread needed a resuscitation order.

Hoping my 29,500 mile 2006 Cayman 3.4 continues to run a long time.

If it didn't require splitting or boring the case, I'd consider an IMSB retrofit. As it is, I just oil, inspect and try to drive well.

Charles Navarro

Boring certainly isn't an option.

Just drive and don't worry about it. When it's time for a clutch, pop the grease seal and you're good to go.

DaveCarrera4

Charles Navarro

There is a black plastic seal on the front of the bearing - you would use a dental pick or something similar to pop the seal out of it's groove. Just be sure not to loose it in the engine when you do remove it. We don't have a video showing how to do this, but I searched youtube and found a short video that shows seal removal on a ball bearing:


The larger bearing found in MY06-08 engines has the same load capacity as the early dual row, which have proven to be the most reliable of the factory bearings. I wouldn't worry too much about it after you pull the grease seal.

I would recommend changing your oil every 6 months or 5,000 miles and use a quality oil like Driven DT-40.