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I bought a 981 S about a month ago for the same reason. Mine is a 6MT as well. First things I did was changed all fluids including high temp brake fluid. Then I did Soul headers and a tune and did the third radiator. Now I'm going to do slotted brakes (when the current ones wear out. I'm also adding the X73 suspension under it in the next couple weeks. I might change to 18" wheels down the road, but currently, I'm just going to run with the 20s that it came with and probably get some new 4S tires in a couple months when the current Pzeros are shot.
I have had it to the track a couple times now and so far, it has been a great car! I primarily bought it for my younger sons to dry while I drive one of my 3RS. But I have found it is so fun that I might use it half the time as well.
We are not serious track guys really (just out having fun), so I will probably quit the mods there. I like the ventilated seats, but if I was serious, I would put some race seats and harness in as well. Maybe in due time.
What are the must do mods for reliability with the 981 Cayman S 6MT?
I'm looking to buy one that will be heavily tracked (primary function), but still be a drive to the track and around town car.
I know for the M96/M97 cars you need to put a baffle and a slightly deeper sump and an under drive pulley -- but the DFI based engines are new to me.
thanks,
Mike
The biggest issue with the 987.2/997.2 and 981/991 (and later) is high engine oil temps. We recommend a 2.5 quart deep sump along with race oil (we use XP9). That's good for a 30-40F degree reduction in oil temp, depending on how hard you are pushing it and track temps.
Center radiator is always a safe bet, especially with a top exit configuration.
The biggest issue with the 987.2/997.2 and 981/991 (and later) is high engine oil temps. We recommend a 2.5 quart deep sump along with race oil (we use XP9). That's good for a 30-40F degree reduction in oil temp, depending on how hard you are pushing it and track temps.
Center radiator is always a safe bet, especially with a top exit configuration.
Is there an easy way (i.e. access to oil stream) to add a SETRAB (or similar) oil cooler with forced air?
Is there an easy way (i.e. access to oil stream) to add a SETRAB (or similar) oil cooler with forced air?
thanks,
mike
It's possible. We have a spin on oil filter adapter that would allow you to plumb the oil, but we've found that by using the larger 911 oil cooler on the engine along with the improved radiators and larger oil sump address the temp issues very well.
We're looking at making an oil cooler delete like what we make for the M96 for those who want to eliminate the stock oil cooler and plumb in an external one.
It's possible. We have a spin on oil filter adapter that would allow you to plumb the oil, but we've found that by using the larger 911 oil cooler on the engine along with the improved radiators and larger oil sump address the temp issues very well.
We're looking at making an oil cooler delete like what we make for the M96 for those who want to eliminate the stock oil cooler and plumb in an external one.
Tbh, the larger sump is pretty pricey. I respect what all you have in it, but that’s a big pill to swallow.
the oil cooler delete would be a good option, it’s what I use on the spec boxster for remote oil filter and accusump.
havent seen the bottom of the 9a1, have to see how much clearance the oil filter adapter has.
I wish my Agro days were behind me, but every now and then :-)
Oil to air coolers will not work as there is no practical way to mount it and get enough air flow. We tried it on a spec Cayman by cutting out the rear license area and using a cooler with fan packs, Oil temps were pushing 280 and we killed the moter. The final solution was using a LN PDK oil to water trans cooler with a modified LN remote adapter and CSF radiators. At VIR 90 degrees' never saw oil temps over 230. This would not work on a street car as the packaging is to tight, The best solution for a street car is the larger 997 oil cooler, but you have to change the intake plenum to gain clearance
I have a '14 Cayman S manual that I track a bit. First of all, be sure to use sport mode. It will lower oil temps about 15-20 degrees because of the new Porsche ECU controlled thermal management. Oiling, weak rod bolts, and other issues seemed to have been addressed in the 9A1 motor (2009+) vs. the previous M97 motor. This leaves oil temps. I put a Porsche third radiator up front before I started tracking it since the GTS comes with one from the factory and figured Porsche put it there for a reason. I personally like to keep oil temps below 250 in a water cooled car. When mine get into the mid 240's, I get off track. This happens after 15-20 minutes depending on ambient temperatures and track. Not sure what else could be done. Larger water to oil heat ex-changer maybe? While I don't think a deep sump is necessary for oiling in the 9A1, it is an interesting suggestion with regards to cooling. Perhaps more oil capacity and larger heat sink surface area afforded by a deep sump would be enough to keep temps below 250 all the time. That would be nice. Bear in mind that if you had a PDK your track heat problem would be worse because PDK oil cooling shares the same ex-changer as engine oil.
I have a '14 Cayman S manual that I track a bit. First of all, be sure to use sport mode. It will lower oil temps about 15-20 degrees because of the new Porsche ECU controlled thermal management. Oiling, weak rod bolts, and other issues seemed to have been addressed in the 9A1 motor (2009+) vs. the previous M97 motor. This leaves oil temps. I put a Porsche third radiator up front before I started tracking it since the GTS comes with one from the factory and figured Porsche put it there for a reason. I personally like to keep oil temps below 250 in a water cooled car. When mine get into the mid 240's, I get off track. This happens after 15-20 minutes depending on ambient temperatures and track. Not sure what else could be done. Larger water to oil heat ex-changer maybe? While I don't think a deep sump is necessary for oiling in the 9A1, it is an interesting suggestion with regards to cooling. Perhaps more oil capacity and larger heat sink surface area afforded by a deep sump would be enough to keep temps below 250 all the time. That would be nice. Bear in mind that if you had a PDK your track heat problem would be worse because PDK oil cooling shares the same ex-changer as engine oil.
Great track car BTW.
Just wondering if your talking engine changes AFTER 2009 , or. Including the 2009 cars. ?? Thanks. i am cayman shopping and plan on track use. But no racing at all. I am wanting to build some skills.
9A1 engine changes for Porsche 911 and cayman/boxter began in 2009 (in US at least). Base boxter and cayman (2.9L?) did not get direct injection but got all other 9A1 improvements. 3.4L boxter s and cayman s and base and S 911's got 9A1 with direct injection. All engines got direct injection beginning with 981 (2013 boxter/2014 cayman) models.
Thats not good , i was planning on making to move to 987.2 / 2009 to avoid both ims and bore scoring. The direct inject is supposed to prevent worn injectors from dripping fuel into the intake and thru open valves into cylinders.
Thats not good , i was planning on making to move to 987.2 / 2009 to avoid both ims and bore scoring. The direct inject is supposed to prevent worn injectors from dripping fuel into the intake and thru open valves into cylinders.
Until carbon builds up on the intake valves and increases leakage :-(
I am new to tracking my 981 Cayman S. I want it to last for years with street/track use, so I've done a ton of upgrades to achieve this goal.
I just tracked this weekend at Thunderhill in 80 degree weather. I experienced dashboard oil temps in Sport+ mode on average of 234-240.
Next week, I am installing the OEM GTS front bumper kit with CSF center radiator (30-40% more cooling than OEM center). I will monitor oil temp before deciding on LN Engineering billet pan upgrade.
I also found tracking wears down my street tires too fast (Michelin 4S) and considering Titan7 18" forged wheels with a sticky street/track tire like the Bridgestone RE71Rs.
I'm prepping my garage to do post-track oil changes, brake pad and wheel swaps myself before and after the track. Photo shows car after track day.
UPGRADES
Brake
Rennline Brake Line Bracket Stud Kit / Item: S-111-BBSK
Rennline Brake Caliper Stud Kit - Cup Car Style (85mm / 72mm) / Item: CS-BCSK
FVD Brombacher Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Brake Fluid Flush: Replaced with Castrol React SRF
Ferodo DS1.111 brake pads for track
Suspension
Porsche X73 suspension
RSS 361 Front Lower Control Arms
RSS 301 Rear Adjustable Toe Steer Kit
RSS 333 Rear Toe Alignment Locking Plates
If you do a lot of tracking, Girodisc rotors will save you money (and time). They're pricey at the outset but last multiple times longer than solid rotors. In addition, because of the larger diameter and better cooling, they reduce heat going into the pads, calipers and fluid. They come with approx. half inch spacers for the calipers but still clear 18" wheels (for track, I'm using 18" wheels from my 987.2). Finally, if you're really putting heat into your single piece rotors, as they expand they warp into a sombrero shape causing pedal softness and pad taper.
Bern
06-30-2019, 01:20 PM
981 Cayman S track mods for reliability.
