"Service Now" message. Do I really need to service it again after 700 miles?
#1
"Service Now" message. Do I really need to service it again after 700 miles?
My car is at a family vacation home and unfortunately I don't get to drive it very often. I hadn't driven the car in 2 years and was a bit surprised to see a "service now" message when I started the car this winter.
I took it in for its 5,000 mile service 3 or 4 years ago and have put about 700 miles on it since then. I have a "service now" message that appears whenever I start the car. As I posted before I'm not that confident driving the car in the winter, so if I do take it for service it would be in the summer. Obviously the only reason I could see would be time. Is it really necessary with so few miles? The dealership is about an hour from me so it's quite a commitment.
I took it in for its 5,000 mile service 3 or 4 years ago and have put about 700 miles on it since then. I have a "service now" message that appears whenever I start the car. As I posted before I'm not that confident driving the car in the winter, so if I do take it for service it would be in the summer. Obviously the only reason I could see would be time. Is it really necessary with so few miles? The dealership is about an hour from me so it's quite a commitment.
#4
Three Wheelin'
As already stated, several maintenance items are based on time regardless of miles. Assuming you have the maintenance manual you can check. Annual oil change should be the minimum. Tires dry rot, five years is a rule of thumb especially if you do any high speed driving. Unless you feel qualified get them inspected if they are more than five years old. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). Do you use a battery maintainer?
#5
As already stated, several maintenance items are based on time regardless of miles. Assuming you have the maintenance manual you can check. Annual oil change should be the minimum. Tires dry rot, five years is a rule of thumb especially if you do any high speed driving. Unless you feel qualified get them inspected if they are more than five years old. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). Do you use a battery maintainer?
#6
Brake fluid is one not to skip the time limit on. It's hygroscopic and water can start crystal growth. Once you have crystals in the fluid any of the mechanical channels/pumps can get clogged. Things go rapidly downhill in cost of repairs after that...
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#9
Well I beg to differ. Synthetic oils are very stable, if you are driving 350 miles a year, you can easily get 2 more years out of that oil. I have a a number of cars and had the same question so I had the oil tested in the lab and it came back fine after two years. Brake fluid is a different thing. It does absorb water, so for low usage cars I test the fluid periodically to see when to change it. I live in a dry area of the country, and it seems, with synthetic fluid, it lasts around 4 years. So I change the oil usually when I flush the brake fluid. Porsche also recommends changing you spark plugs every 4 years. I cannot understand how spark plugs ages without use. My cayman has 19000 miles and is 12 years old, plugs are still fine. I do change the serpentine belt on my cars every 10 years. It is rubber and they age. Tires do age so if you do high speed runs you need to change them. Coolent needs to be flushed if it is water base. I changed it to non water base coolent.
Most importantly you have to at least start the engine every month to keep the engine oiled. I drive each of my cars at least once a month. It allows me to feel what the car is doing and see if it needs further maintenance. It also keeps the tires round.
I also did not like the message, so I turn it off with a scan tool. I keep a maintenance log on my own instead.
Most importantly you have to at least start the engine every month to keep the engine oiled. I drive each of my cars at least once a month. It allows me to feel what the car is doing and see if it needs further maintenance. It also keeps the tires round.
I also did not like the message, so I turn it off with a scan tool. I keep a maintenance log on my own instead.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Changing plugs every four years is based on the aluminum block. In theory the plugs can seize in the block. My dealer said no more than 6 years. If you check the manual it recommends inflating tires to max pressure to minimize flat spots for winter storage. Elevating on jack stands for an extended period of time is not recommended since it exposes the piston normally inside to moisture potentially creating rust. The rust will wear out the seals prematurely. Not sure I agree that the engine needs started every month to oil it. Modern synthetics provide a very good "coating". If you drive the car make sure all the fluids and exhaust get to operating temperature. Short runs will create and leave condensation especially in the exhaust. You can buy a very cheap moisture tester for the brake fluid. I agree that today's modern synthetic oil should easily last two years. Aviation and heavy industry has been testing fluids for decades to determine its condition. The need for corrosion and other inhibitors is one of the primary reasons. The other is to detect metal contamination in the oil indicating or predicting bearing or other failures. Testing the oil for metals has been an "IMS" bearing failure best practice for years.
#11
This is why I don't understand why porsche does not recommend antisieze for their plugs. I was always taught to antisieze all dissimilar metals. So I have always use them on my porsche. I take the plugs out every so often to see what the combustion is like. So far no issues to report.
I agree on getting up to temp for each run. Always get the oil temp above 212 to evaporate any condensation. Again I live in a dry and warm part of the country and my cars are in control environment. Rust is not an issue, dry seals is the major problem. If you drive it once a month, it minimize that.
The mechanicals of this car is well design. Cosmetic is a different issue. Radio and heater control started peeling after just 6 years. Year 8 the headliner felt on my head. I have chevys that are 40 years old without the headliner coming down. Disappointed with the quality there.
I agree on getting up to temp for each run. Always get the oil temp above 212 to evaporate any condensation. Again I live in a dry and warm part of the country and my cars are in control environment. Rust is not an issue, dry seals is the major problem. If you drive it once a month, it minimize that.
The mechanicals of this car is well design. Cosmetic is a different issue. Radio and heater control started peeling after just 6 years. Year 8 the headliner felt on my head. I have chevys that are 40 years old without the headliner coming down. Disappointed with the quality there.
#12
Instructor
#13
Yes. I don't buy it. I claim some expertise with electrical stuff (I have a Ph.D in electrical engineering and am an IEEE Fellow). Cooper grade antiseize contains, you guessed it, cooper that is conductive. Good for up to 1800 degrees. Use sparingly on the threads and don't get any on the electrode and I cannot see it doing harm.
#14
As already stated, several maintenance items are based on time regardless of miles. Assuming you have the maintenance manual you can check. Annual oil change should be the minimum. Tires dry rot, five years is a rule of thumb especially if you do any high speed driving. Unless you feel qualified get them inspected if they are more than five years old. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). Do you use a battery maintainer?
"Synthetic oils are a whole different story. There is no VI(addatives) improver added so there is nothing to wear out. The actual oil molecules never wear out. You could almost use the same oil forever." FWIW somebody will go out there and find a search result that says just the opposite. Find out who penned the article. I bought this car new and just had my 72 Alfa Romeo rebuilt at 93K. And I had changed the non-synthetic oil every 3K religiously regardless the mileage in between changes. The mechanic asked after breaking down the motor, why are you doing this? The tolerances are pristine." I rest my case.
#15
Race Director
Yes. I don't buy it. I claim some expertise with electrical stuff (I have a Ph.D in electrical engineering and am an IEEE Fellow). Cooper grade antiseize contains, you guessed it, cooper that is conductive. Good for up to 1800 degrees. Use sparingly on the threads and don't get any on the electrode and I cannot see it doing harm.
Additionally this thin layer of anti seize is replaced by combustion byproducts that are forced in between the threads. One can see this even with plugs installed with no anti seize, the threads are discolored starting at the electrode end. The combustion byproducts are corrosive and over time can damage plug and head threads. With the plug you throw away the threads with the plug. The head threads...
Last but not least anti seize can contaminate O2 sensors.
Buy the right plugs. Buy factory plugs as they come with a special surface treatment on the threads that ensures a good install and good heat transfer and no room for contamination. Last but not least do not use any anti seize.
My rule is to not remove the plugs unless they are due to be replaced. I do not like to remove plugs and then install them again.