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Torque Converter or Valve Body issue 2007 Cayman 987 tiptronic
Trying to diagnose this problem. I have a 2007 Cayman S, with the tiptronic trans. I notice when driving in the auto mode, the rpm’s will fluctuate a bit…a very slight rev... while going thru the gears. Doesn’t feel like its slipping….no jerking or sounds other than the slight rev…..Usually in 4th or 5th and only when the car is lugging. Seems to shift at about 2000 rpm’s and lugs a bit at slower speeds (kind of normal from what I have learned as far as the lug goes). I can make it do it at about 40 mph which is about 2000 rpm…rpm needle jumps a bit, almost like it doesn’t like being in 5th at that speed and is searching for 4th??? Odd thing is it doesn’t behave like that at all when in manual mode, shifting gears myself…i am guessing because I shift it higher than the 2000 rpm as the auto mode does Explained all this to my mechanic…had all the trans fluid and filters replaced (needed it app 72,000 miles) and he reset the computer for it to “re learn” my driving habits????Mechanic said there are no faults in the computer related to the problem and doesn’t seem too concerned and thinks it may work itself out. It has not. Took it to 2nd shop who rechecked all of the 1st shops work and did more thorough computer diagnosis (actually drove car around on computer) and again reset computer, no help 1st shop recommended rebuilding valve body, 2nd shop also talked about valve body possibly being problem Contacted a tiptronic repair expert on east coast (i'm west) who believes may be problem to be torque converter.......his email below It sounds more like a problem with the torque converter. One way to confirm it is to attach a scan tool and monitor pressure control solenoid 4 (converter lockup solenoid) It is quite common for the friction in the converter to get "glazed" . This can cause a problem when the computer is trying to control slippage of the converter clutch. The glazing changes the friction characteristics and the computer over shoots the rpm it is trying to control then backs off but overshoots the other way. If the mA reading of the pr solenoid 4 is varying as this happens it is because the computer is trying to control it. I am going to re-check getting re-scanned as suggested in email by 2nd shop who read this email and considers it good information. Just doing all my homework before dropping the bucks to get this fixed. Any suggestions or advise is appreciated. Thanks |
Well, not the valve body....had it rebuilt after some weaknesses diagnosed.and still has issue....moving on to torque converter
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After a long journey, problem fixed. First tried a rebuild on the valve body..after removal and testing was told it did need rebuilding however that didn't completely solve problems. Moved on to the torque converter and replaced it with a new one (550ish oem new....280ish to rebuild)...long story short, shifts perfect now. About 2500.00 fix but well worth it in my view. All things considered, probably more the torque converter than valve body but having them both done can't hurt a 12 year old car with 75k miles.
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HEY WAS LOOKING THROUGH YOUR POST DEALER WANTS TO REPLACE MY VALVE BODY WHO DID YOU HAVE REBUILD YOURS . DEALER WANTS 6K FOR THE VALVE BODY ASSY
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Originally Posted by MIBISHI
(Post 17031359)
HEY WAS LOOKING THROUGH YOUR POST DEALER WANTS TO REPLACE MY VALVE BODY WHO DID YOU HAVE REBUILD YOURS . DEALER WANTS 6K FOR THE VALVE BODY ASSY
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Originally Posted by Ricarr
(Post 17031382)
Im in So Cal and used an independent garage ...he sent out valve body for rebuild, not sure where he sent it. I could probably give you the info if you send me contact info. If you are having similar issues as mine, the torque converter was more the issue....not sure in needed the valve body rebuild but we were guessing...
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Originally Posted by j_man000
(Post 17215964)
I have the same exact issue with the same exact car. Can you take a look at these videos and let me know if it’s what you had? Also how much did you pay for the torque converter replacement?
https://youtu.be/emwb1U2a2h8 https://youtu.be/kJjNE9R9nlw |
Originally Posted by Ricarr
(Post 17216608)
Think it was about 1600.00 total for torque converter....600ish parts the rest labor. Hard to tell from video as my problem was a while ago and I sold the car a wile ago. My info to replace the torque converter came from a mechanic online somewhere, don’t have the info, who who said the pads in the converter can get glazed and slip. My mechanic, who was a pretty sharp Porsche guy, was unaware of the issue. As I said, we 1st did valve body which didn’t cure it then did torque, which 100% cured it. So I’d start with the torque. Hope this helps. Was a tough issue to diagnose.
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Originally Posted by Ricarr
(Post 17216608)
Think it was about 1600.00 total for torque converter....600ish parts the rest labor. Hard to tell from video as my problem was a while ago and I sold the car a wile ago. My info to replace the torque converter came from a mechanic online somewhere, don’t have the info, who who said the pads in the converter can get glazed and slip. My mechanic, who was a pretty sharp Porsche guy, was unaware of the issue. As I said, we 1st did valve body which didn’t cure it then did torque, which 100% cured it. So I’d start with the torque. Hope this helps. Was a tough issue to diagnose.
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Hello, You could have been solved already but the torque converter is available online at Pelican Parts for 1300/1600 $
Probably you can also find it elsewhere online. |
Originally Posted by danlef
(Post 17666202)
Hello, You could have been solved already but the torque converter is available online at Pelican Parts for 1300/1600 $
Probably you can also find it elsewhere online. |
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