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In order to get my seat back as far back as possible (Im 6'4), we removed the rear decklid hinges and hinge pockets (allowed the cage to move back another inch).
The body is amazingly strong here. There are 5-7 layers of sheet metal all bonded together, its almost 3/8in thick... While I thought I could just weld a bung in place, the layered sheet-metal with adhesive between the layers and my limited welding abilities precluded that idea.
Instead I opted to weld the bung to a plate and bond the plate in from the underside with 3m impact adhesive (the stuff OE used to bond panels)
I really did not like the options I saw for power steering coolers... Way to complicated... So before I install one of these Rube Goldberg things, I want to be sure its really needed. I'm hoping the under-drive pulley is enough.
Since adapters were a non starter, and there really isn't room for them anyway, opted to splice the aluminum return line at the pump. Rather than goofy compression fittings we welded AN fittings to the ends of the spliced OE line. Again Brown and Miller to the rescue with some trick fittings. Check out the line that connects back to the chassis, no screw fitting, direct crimp on. Saving 2 more failure points.
Jeff
I also toyed with trying to make something, but ended up buying this adapter line from Atlanta Speedwerks:
I completed the front wheel bearings using Jeff's guide earlier in this thread. Make sure you have the correct tools and this is an easy job if you are at all mechanically inclined. One of the old bearing races stuck to my hub which took more time than it should have but all in all not a bad job.
Just completed the rear wheel bearings using the guide again. Thanks again Jeff! Obviously dealing with the axle shaft is different but the rest is the exact same. Easy.
Just completed the rear wheel bearings using the guide again. Thanks again Jeff! Obviously dealing with the axle shaft is different but the rest is the exact same. Easy.
Awesome..
Too many people say "new" cars are harder to work on... The amazing engineering/intergration these cars have makes them easier to work on IMHO....
To finish up the build: Some info on the AIM install.
The binder719 connectors aren't as daunting as I feared. I'm pretty good with a soldering iron, which is crucial, but nothing crazy here. Prep and a good vice are critical to getting things aligned and solid prior to soldering. Potting in epoxy should make them bulletproof.
AIM Cont:
AIM has two options to communicate with the ECU, either the "K" line from the ODB2 connector or directly to the ECU CAN bus. https://www.aimtechnologies.com/supp...-2_102_eng.pdf
The CAN connection retrieves much more data... Following the wiring harness, you don't need to run all the way back to the ECU to tap that signal... The CAN bus runs up to the gateway module in the driver side cowl, you can tap it there (black/White, Yellow/White wires)...
And the first tough lesson learned.... If you have hood pins, make sure they are latched before heading out....
I though I was being smart by using inconspicuous pins (Ill leave the brand out of it), they worked great in theory, but the first time I opened the hood, I forgot to latch the pins, since they weren't obviously unlatched, I missed it before heading out on track for my second session...
07-17-2018, 12:12 AM
