User 52121

Ok maybe this is just a stupid or silly question.... but I've changed the oil on both my car (2006 Cayman converted to 2010 powertrain with the 9A1 3.4L) and my wife's car (2015 Boxster S).

Both of them... the filter housing winds up damp with oil after a drive. It wasn't like this before I changed the oil, and it's doing it on both cars, so it's gotta be something I'm doing or missing.

Right now both are still using the stock cartridge filter stuff. Both oil changes were with Mahle filters, and a new sealing O-ring. I coated the sealing ring with fresh oil before installing it up into the car, and used a torque wrench to torque it down to 19ft-lbs (~25Nm that's written on the housing).

Is there a trick? Am I missing something?

I'll eventually upgrade at least the Cayman to the LN spin-on filter adapter. The Boxster is still under CPO warranty so I'm a little paranoid to do it on that car - not that I think it'll cause a failure but I've had bad run-ins with voided warranty due to mods in the past (Chevy, not Porsche... but the resulting PTSD still remains) so I'm hesitant. Frankly I normally would take the Boxster to the dealer for the oil change but the snow has fallen here so the car is parked... plus I just didn't have it in me to choke down another $300 oil change.

ssburns

Are you using a filter housing socket to tighten it?

User 52121

Yes - using a filter socket I picked up at AutoZone (which I hate... now have an official Porsche one from Pelican on order.)

ssburns

Could it just be residual from the oil change itself vs. fresh oil seeping after the change? The housing is tucked up there pretty well. So it's difficult not get oil on stuff around when removing the filter.


I personally haven't noticed this on my car, but it does seem that I have to retighten the drain plug after a heat cycle or I get some seepage.

User 52121

I initially thought/hoped so, though after washing it all down with Brakekleen and wiping it up with a towel... it came back on the next drive.

I'm paranoid to over-torque it and damage it since it's plastic... overtightening and damaging it or not being able to get it off, hence the over-paranoid use of the torque wrench on it. Maybe I need to try to snug it up a little more?

Macster

Changed the oil a number of times in my Boxster and 2 times in my 2008 Cayman S (before I lost it to an accident) and never had any signs of oil on the housing. All dry as a bone.

My procedure was pretty much as you described. Remove the housing empty out the contents remove the o-ring. For the Boxster I had 2 housings so I'd take the already clean housing with a new o-ring installed and carefully worked to the o-ring groove along with some fresh oil smeared on the o-ring and a new element in the housing. I'd carefully fill the housing with fresh oil and then screw it into the block by hand to make sure it was started in the threads properly and I could hand tighten it all the way down with no signs of say the o-ring pinching or the filter element some how not lining up right.

After torquing the housing down I'd spray some residue free cleaner on the housing to remove any oil. 5K miles later when I'd go to remove the housing for the oil filter change the housing could be a bit dusty but there was never any sign of oil.

Do you replace the drain plug sealing ring with a new one every time? Any chance of seepage from this point that might be oiling the housing?

HoBoJoe

Jim, I never had an issue with the 987.2 including when I had to re-use the o-ring because the dealer provided the wrong one.

Make sure your o-ring is the correct size (very obvious) and that it's sitting in the proper groove without being twisted. If you "roll" the o-ring down the threads it can become twisted and I doubt it will seal very well.

badabing

I have a 987.2 CS with the exact same issue. The car is used frequently on track so the oil is changed very often.

At least 6 times from April to October if not more.

Each time the oil filter housing becomes saturated with oil.

I use all oem parts, tools, and procedures.

I have recently bought a new filter housing from the dealer to try. Actually pretty cheap. $40 includes new filter element and o ring.

My research has indicated it is best practice to twist the housing back and forth (rather than just tighten all at once) to ensure the o ring doesn't bind up and get stretched (thin) in spots.

I will try that when I install the new housing.

User 52121

Innnnnnteresting.

I'll watch closely for results (tho mine are all parked for the winter now...)