adams215

New here and excited to be a part of Reenlist! I need some advice on purchasing my first Porsche, an 06-08 Cayman. How do I know when I've found a good example? What should I ask the previous owner or dealer and how important is the IMS issue? I test drove one of these a few months back and it was amazing. Been waiting for this for years and I want to make a good decision. This will be a weekend car for me and not a daily driver. Thank you in advance!

Spokayman

The 987.1 cars ('06-'08) are old enough now that the condition of the cars for sale will vary quite a bit. I think it's best to personally view and drive any car you're interested in that's any older than just a few years and not rely on a handful of photos from afar. I think it's wise to buy according to condition primarily and mileage secondarily.
Maintenance records are the most definitive way to verify regular maintenance and repairs. Cars with 60K miles or more may need replacement of the water pump, AOS, brakes, clutch, etc. Not all will need all of these things, but they should be checked out. Always check the condition of the tires, brakes, etc.

At 40K miles a major maintenance should have seen spark plugs replaced along with the usual oil and brake fluids and engine and cabin air filters.

I understand it's not always possible to personally view and drive a car if it's not local to you. In that case and I would suggest having a PPI conducted by an independent shop, and you might want to have a PPI done even with a local car if you're not comfortable with your own ability to thoroughly scrutinize a car.

The IMS bearing has not really been a problem with these newer M97 engines, and you can't economically replace the bearing like you could with the earlier engines. This is not to say none have failed, but there is a greater likelihood of problems due to bore scoring, oil starvation from extreme track use, AOS failures, etc., than of IMS problems.

danschy

Agree on above, especially getting a PPI, and make sure you review the over rev report. I have shied away from cars that have seen a lot of track days, which greatly accelerates wear and tear on the car. The problem with these engines is not the high failure rate, they are very good, but the extreme expense involved in fixing them should you be unlucky. There is a very good thread (or two) on either this forum or P9 on how to thoroughly check out a used Cayman/Boxster. Might want to search a bit.

Macster

The 06-08 Cayman is just a used car so a thorough used car check out goes a long way to helping you learn enough about the car to make the right decision.

Below I've pasted something you might find of some help.

For both a private seller and a dealer ask if the car has been in any accidents? Had it had any paint work? Has the car ever been tracked?

On this tracked question be neutral about tracking. Don't come out and say I hate tracked cars then ask if the car has been tracked. In fact mention one reason for your interest in a Porsche is the idea of possibly engaging in some tracking and are wondering how the car might fare on the track.

For the private seller why is the car being offered for sale?

Watch the private seller closely for any signs of him engaging in deception.

For a privately offered car you want a car that has been properly serviced. Owner serviced cars can be ok but I read too many posts by owners who use the wrong oil, or other fluids, or treat oil/filter services as all there is, so you have to be on your toes. If the car has been owner serviced get the seller to speak on this. You have to be somewhat aware of what proper servicing of these cars involves to get much of anything from the answers though.

A dealer serviced car is better in my opinion.

You want a car that has been "loved" by its owner. Regular and proper servicing. But also little things taken care of that shows the owner well, "loved" the car.

Car with any real issues, like a worn/low tire, a CEL, mis-alignment, signs of uneven tire wear, and seemingly lesser things like a burned out bulb, excessive trash in the radiator ducts, the car dirty inside or out, any signs of any issues at all really, is not a car I'd consider was loved.

A side note on tire wear: Excessive wear on the rear tire inner edges can be an alignment problem. Excessive wear of the right rear tire vs. the left rear tire -- for USA cars -- is a sign the car was hot rodded around.

Used Cayman check out... If you can get your hands on the checklist Porsche techs use to check a car out prior to a CPO. While you can't do everything you can do enough I think to build up some confidence in the car or to decide the car's not worth owning.

Visit the car cold and be sure the CEL comes on when you turn the key on and goes off when you start the engine. Let the cold engine idle -- turn off the A/C for now -- while you walk around the car. Look at body panel fits and finish. Check the age of the tires. Porsche considers tires to be past their replace by date after 6 years. If the tires are not N-rated and matching you probably want to budget for new tires. If the tread wear is uneven budget for an alignment after having new tires mounted.

Check brake rotor condition. A 1mm lip around the edge of the rotor is a sign the rotor is worn out and new rotors and pads and other hardware will be needed.

Brake fluid (and if a manual clutch fluid) flush/bleed should be done at this time. This is due every 2 years.

Check the radiator ducts. If trash present and it wiil be budget for a front bumper cover removal to get that trash out.

If the radiators are full of trash odds are the body water drains are too. Bring along a Torx tool bit set (get the security bit set) and use the tool to remove the screw that holds the panel on either side of the battery -- under the front trunk lid -- so you can view the front body water drains. If the trash is there get this cleaned out first thing if you buy the car. If the trash is wet, or worse, water is standing in the basin you probably want to walk away. Water can overflow into the cabin and the security module is located on the cabin floor under the passenger seat and this gets wet.

All the while you do whatever you do keep an ear tuned to the engine. It should not make any knocks, ticks, or other sounds other than those of a healthy engine. The idle should be smooth and shortly after you start the engine the idle speed should drop to near its normal hot idle level. The idle speed should be pretty stable.

After some stationary checks then have the seller take you on a test ride. The route wants to be 15 miles long (at least) and selected to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to drive it.

Stop and go driving. Boulevard cruising. Once the engine is fully warmed up then a hard acceleration run up through 2 gears then some highway miles. You want a real mix.

Back at the starting point change seats and drive the car over teh same route the same way.

The clutch will have a rather high engagement point -- normal for these cars -- but the engagment should be very smooth. The clutch pedal effort should not be high but you need exposure to other examples to know what's normal.

At some point put the transmission in 4th or 5th gear at around 2K and floor the gas pedal and hold for a while. You want to check if the clutch slips.

If the car equipped with a Tip/PDK have the seller do a K-turn early with the transmission cold. Then later when the transmission is hot. You want to verify the transmission can handle changes in direction in rapid succession. 'course, the transmission want to manifest no signs of any issues at any other times too.

Back at the starting point if you still like the car give every system a check out. From the headlights to tail lights, brake lights. The spoiler. Let the engine idle and be sure the radiator fans come on and both blow hot air and the same amount. The engine compartment fan will probably come on and be sure it runs and blows a good amount of air out the bottom of the engine compartment.

Use your nose. You should not smell raw fuel or anti-freeze. If you do there's a fuel or coolant leak.

Might add the engine should still be free of any "scary" noises at this point as well as at any other time during the check out.

After all the above then ideally you want a PPI which among other things gets the car in the air so a thorough check for any leak sign can be made. Every gasket, seal, o-ring, CV boot, hydraulic line, line fitting, hose, hose connection, oil/water heat exchangers, radiator, steering rack lines and so on need to be checked for oil or water or other fluid leak sign.

A leaking water pump or radiator is not the end of the world but you have to factor the cost of addressing these or any other issues into your offer price. However, I have to note the presence of any of these or similar issues is contrary to what I mentioned above about signs the car was loved.

Couple of things to close with. Price is not fact only an opinion.

And if you find something "wrong" with the car walk away. There is always another car.

SomnoBoost

Wow! Thanks Macster for that long, detailed inspection post. I'm in the market for a Cayman myself and I will definitely taking your post to heart.

adams215

A thank you to both Master and Spokesman for your very detailed responses above. I think I bought the right car and I'm loving it! I appreciate the time you took to make those long responses!