Purchased new cayman s - advice needed
08-07-2017, 11:45 PM
#1
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Purchased new cayman s - advice needed
Hi all
I recently purchased a new 718 cayman S 2017 model. Just a few questions I have, hoping some of you can help:
1. During the break-in period (I've read for days on whether you should break in or not and I've opted to follow the manual), it states in the manual:
Running in the vehicle (for the first 3000kms):
1. Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances
2. Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
3. Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revs per minute. Drive at low speed when the engine is cold.
My questions:
1. Is a short distance classified as driving somewhere and not letting the oil completely heat up? Porsche aren't very prescriptive.
2. I've read everywhere here that you should keep it under 4000 rpm during a warmup, yet that sentence implies you should be keeping it well below 4000 rpm during warmup? Interestingly enough, in the "Starting the engine" section they state:
Avoid high revs and full thottle until the engine has reached operating temperature.
In both sections are they just implying don't red line the car when it's cold? They're not specific with RPM limit during warmup.
3. The dealership told me to take it to 5000 rpm during the break in period, although the manual states 4000 rpm. Has anyone been told by senior dealership personnel (or people who actually know what they're talking about) about what RPM to stick to during break in?
4. I anticipate a barrage of abuse and sarcasm here but I'll ask the question anyway to satisfy my own car OCD (after all the car did cost $170k and I intend to keep it for a long time). The car has about 500kms on it and stupid me hit about 5000 rpm for a about two seconds whilst driving on 3-4 different occasions when the engine was cold. Would this have caused any damage? Hopefully some serious responses along with the sarcasm to help me sleep better at night
Cheers guys
I recently purchased a new 718 cayman S 2017 model. Just a few questions I have, hoping some of you can help:
1. During the break-in period (I've read for days on whether you should break in or not and I've opted to follow the manual), it states in the manual:
Running in the vehicle (for the first 3000kms):
1. Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances
2. Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
3. Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revs per minute. Drive at low speed when the engine is cold.
My questions:
1. Is a short distance classified as driving somewhere and not letting the oil completely heat up? Porsche aren't very prescriptive.
2. I've read everywhere here that you should keep it under 4000 rpm during a warmup, yet that sentence implies you should be keeping it well below 4000 rpm during warmup? Interestingly enough, in the "Starting the engine" section they state:
Avoid high revs and full thottle until the engine has reached operating temperature.
In both sections are they just implying don't red line the car when it's cold? They're not specific with RPM limit during warmup.
3. The dealership told me to take it to 5000 rpm during the break in period, although the manual states 4000 rpm. Has anyone been told by senior dealership personnel (or people who actually know what they're talking about) about what RPM to stick to during break in?
4. I anticipate a barrage of abuse and sarcasm here but I'll ask the question anyway to satisfy my own car OCD (after all the car did cost $170k and I intend to keep it for a long time). The car has about 500kms on it and stupid me hit about 5000 rpm for a about two seconds whilst driving on 3-4 different occasions when the engine was cold. Would this have caused any damage? Hopefully some serious responses along with the sarcasm to help me sleep better at night
Cheers guys
Last edited by por718; 08-07-2017 at 11:47 PM. Reason: formatting
08-08-2017, 12:08 AM
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I've run-in two new Porsches. I let them warm up at low speeds, which I take to be oil temp of at least 175. In both cases, I've taken 3000+ miles trips, the last one off the showroom floor. I kept revs to under 4000 rpm for a while - a couple hundred miles. But with the precision machining now used in producing new car engines, what I did is conservative but probably not necessary. In Europe I've been told you can do anything once it is warmed up, right from the first drive. I am interested in what others do - I am waiting for a 2018 718 and have run out of you tube reviews
08-08-2017, 01:34 AM
#3
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My questions:
1. Is a short distance classified as driving somewhere and not letting the oil completely heat up? Porsche aren't very prescriptive.
2. I've read everywhere here that you should keep it under 4000 rpm during a warmup, yet that sentence implies you should be keeping it well below 4000 rpm during warmup? Interestingly enough, in the "Starting the engine" section they state:
Avoid high revs and full thottle until the engine has reached operating temperature.
In both sections are they just implying don't red line the car when it's cold? They're not specific with RPM limit during warmup.
3. The dealership told me to take it to 5000 rpm during the break in period, although the manual states 4000 rpm. Has anyone been told by senior dealership personnel (or people who actually know what they're talking about) about what RPM to stick to during break in?
4. I anticipate a barrage of abuse and sarcasm here but I'll ask the question anyway to satisfy my own car OCD (after all the car did cost $170k and I intend to keep it for a long time). The car has about 500kms on it and stupid me hit about 5000 rpm for a about two seconds whilst driving on 3-4 different occasions when the engine was cold. Would this have caused any damage? Hopefully some serious responses along with the sarcasm to help me sleep better at night
Cheers guys
1. Is a short distance classified as driving somewhere and not letting the oil completely heat up? Porsche aren't very prescriptive.
2. I've read everywhere here that you should keep it under 4000 rpm during a warmup, yet that sentence implies you should be keeping it well below 4000 rpm during warmup? Interestingly enough, in the "Starting the engine" section they state:
Avoid high revs and full thottle until the engine has reached operating temperature.
In both sections are they just implying don't red line the car when it's cold? They're not specific with RPM limit during warmup.
3. The dealership told me to take it to 5000 rpm during the break in period, although the manual states 4000 rpm. Has anyone been told by senior dealership personnel (or people who actually know what they're talking about) about what RPM to stick to during break in?
4. I anticipate a barrage of abuse and sarcasm here but I'll ask the question anyway to satisfy my own car OCD (after all the car did cost $170k and I intend to keep it for a long time). The car has about 500kms on it and stupid me hit about 5000 rpm for a about two seconds whilst driving on 3-4 different occasions when the engine was cold. Would this have caused any damage? Hopefully some serious responses along with the sarcasm to help me sleep better at night
Cheers guys
Hello also waiting on a 2018 CS delivery but the break-in period is something I have done some research on. Firstly, Porsche recommends not exceeding 4200 rpms for the first 2000 miles but I have also heard the formula listed below for the break-in that is also advocated.
Break-in Period
300 miles < 5000 rpm
500 miles < 5500 rpm
700 miles <6000 rpm
900 miles. <6500 rpm
1100 miles <7000 rpm
1300 miles <7500 rpm
Oil change at 1000 miles
Another poster can't remember the source had what I thought was good advice on the break-in period:
"First, no Cruise Control will be used, for the first 2000 miles. That is always a hard rule of mine. Lifting the throttle sucks oil up the cylinder walls. And that's a very good thing, assuming u abhor cylinder wall scoring.
Second, lots of downshifting and engine braking (see benefit above). Engine and transmission are warranty items, brakes are not. Besides, downshifting is especially fun with PDK and SC if u like driving, and control, and instant throttle response.
Third, no horsing it, and no revs above 4000 rpm until oil temp is up, to >190F. Here in FL my Cayman S 3.4L typically took 4-5 miles of driving to get to that oil temp.
Once oil temp is up to 190+, no revs above 4000 in the higher gears, but brief (nothing sustained) excursions are allowed for fun above 4000, except in the lower 3 gears, as follows:
- 1st gear, 5000 max
- 2nd gear, about 4600 max
- 3rd gear, about 4200 max
After 1000 miles I'll move those limits up maybe 500 rpm each, but only when the oil is hot.
After 1500 miles, I'll move those limits up maybe another 500 rpm each, but only when the oil is hot.
After 2000 miles, only the 6500 redline applies, but only when the oil is 190F+. Otherwise, 4000-4600 rpm limit applies, depending on gear selected.
Oh, and I will not be shutting down my engine at stoplights**, thank u. That is a STUPID idea. I don't want my oil draining down during stops and low oil pressure when i start up at a stoplight. That's when i like to hit it to my rpm limit as fast as i can. And i want to go instantly when i want to go - I want my machine ready to go like a caged beast!"
**he is referring to the Auto Stop/Start feature on the Porsche
Here are some good links on the break-in that you may find useful:
http://yel.pca.org/porsche-engine-break-in/
Lastly, I don't believe your brief excursion above 5000 rpms did any damage........enjoy the car!
08-08-2017, 02:01 AM
#4
Late Porkchops
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All normal break in rules work if they suit you.
Basically you want to let an engine come up to temperature before working it harder.
And get some heat cycles in to a new engine and new car. I've done it a variety of ways and most all of them work.
Some motors seem to seat their rings better with more rpm earlier. In some cars with high performance motors that may have looser tolerances in spots that may work better.
I wouldn't get on it hard when they are new or when the motor is cold. Let it rev up and down freely without droning on. I wouldn't go to sustained high rpm early or beat on it - but regular driving isn't likely to hurt these engines.
There are guys around that went through strenuous break ins and their cars always used oil.
In some cases I think after you get a few heat cycles on it you can just drive it how you are going to and it will last a long time.
Or just do it how Porsche says. But you have to accept that their way is a bit more oriented toward not seeing the car at the dealer for a warranty claim than necessarily what may be the "best" all around method.
My 1986 951 from September 1985 that was sold is what 32 years old, and it is still going fine on the original pistons, rings, rods, heads, cams, and mains as far as I know. A lot is going to wear out or be replaced before these motors die in most cases. Did I say a lot. Yes a lot.
No damage was done to your car. If it was going to have that much sensitivity Porsche would have put a rev limit on it. Just like they do with the shipping and transportation software they use. You don't think they are just going to let someone hop in that fresh new high dollar GT3 or 911R and wind it up before it gets to its new owner do ya?
Basically you want to let an engine come up to temperature before working it harder.
And get some heat cycles in to a new engine and new car. I've done it a variety of ways and most all of them work.
Some motors seem to seat their rings better with more rpm earlier. In some cars with high performance motors that may have looser tolerances in spots that may work better.
I wouldn't get on it hard when they are new or when the motor is cold. Let it rev up and down freely without droning on. I wouldn't go to sustained high rpm early or beat on it - but regular driving isn't likely to hurt these engines.
There are guys around that went through strenuous break ins and their cars always used oil.
In some cases I think after you get a few heat cycles on it you can just drive it how you are going to and it will last a long time.
Or just do it how Porsche says. But you have to accept that their way is a bit more oriented toward not seeing the car at the dealer for a warranty claim than necessarily what may be the "best" all around method.
My 1986 951 from September 1985 that was sold is what 32 years old, and it is still going fine on the original pistons, rings, rods, heads, cams, and mains as far as I know. A lot is going to wear out or be replaced before these motors die in most cases. Did I say a lot. Yes a lot.
No damage was done to your car. If it was going to have that much sensitivity Porsche would have put a rev limit on it. Just like they do with the shipping and transportation software they use. You don't think they are just going to let someone hop in that fresh new high dollar GT3 or 911R and wind it up before it gets to its new owner do ya?
08-08-2017, 12:21 PM
#5
Race Director
Hi all
I recently purchased a new 718 cayman S 2017 model. Just a few questions I have, hoping some of you can help:
1. During the break-in period (I've read for days on whether you should break in or not and I've opted to follow the manual), it states in the manual:
Running in the vehicle (for the first 3000kms):
1. Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances
2. Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
3. Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revs per minute. Drive at low speed when the engine is cold.
My questions:
1. Is a short distance classified as driving somewhere and not letting the oil completely heat up? Porsche aren't very prescriptive.
2. I've read everywhere here that you should keep it under 4000 rpm during a warmup, yet that sentence implies you should be keeping it well below 4000 rpm during warmup? Interestingly enough, in the "Starting the engine" section they state:
Avoid high revs and full thottle until the engine has reached operating temperature.
In both sections are they just implying don't red line the car when it's cold? They're not specific with RPM limit during warmup.
3. The dealership told me to take it to 5000 rpm during the break in period, although the manual states 4000 rpm. Has anyone been told by senior dealership personnel (or people who actually know what they're talking about) about what RPM to stick to during break in?
4. I anticipate a barrage of abuse and sarcasm here but I'll ask the question anyway to satisfy my own car OCD (after all the car did cost $170k and I intend to keep it for a long time). The car has about 500kms on it and stupid me hit about 5000 rpm for a about two seconds whilst driving on 3-4 different occasions when the engine was cold. Would this have caused any damage? Hopefully some serious responses along with the sarcasm to help me sleep better at night
Cheers guys
I recently purchased a new 718 cayman S 2017 model. Just a few questions I have, hoping some of you can help:
1. During the break-in period (I've read for days on whether you should break in or not and I've opted to follow the manual), it states in the manual:
Running in the vehicle (for the first 3000kms):
1. Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances
2. Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
3. Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revs per minute. Drive at low speed when the engine is cold.
My questions:
1. Is a short distance classified as driving somewhere and not letting the oil completely heat up? Porsche aren't very prescriptive.
2. I've read everywhere here that you should keep it under 4000 rpm during a warmup, yet that sentence implies you should be keeping it well below 4000 rpm during warmup? Interestingly enough, in the "Starting the engine" section they state:
Avoid high revs and full thottle until the engine has reached operating temperature.
In both sections are they just implying don't red line the car when it's cold? They're not specific with RPM limit during warmup.
3. The dealership told me to take it to 5000 rpm during the break in period, although the manual states 4000 rpm. Has anyone been told by senior dealership personnel (or people who actually know what they're talking about) about what RPM to stick to during break in?
4. I anticipate a barrage of abuse and sarcasm here but I'll ask the question anyway to satisfy my own car OCD (after all the car did cost $170k and I intend to keep it for a long time). The car has about 500kms on it and stupid me hit about 5000 rpm for a about two seconds whilst driving on 3-4 different occasions when the engine was cold. Would this have caused any damage? Hopefully some serious responses along with the sarcasm to help me sleep better at night
Cheers guys
Go by what is in the owners manual regarding break in. Ignore what the dealer says. Everyone has their break in stories and theories and what have you but the factory is the only real authority.
For question (2) keep the engine under 4K at all times. This agrees with what's in the manual. Might mention even with my fully broken in engines (one with 313K miles, the other with over 156K miles) I avoid going over 4K when the engine is cold and by habit generally stay a bit below 4K.
Once the engine is fully warmed up you can take it to 4K and you can use considerable throttle provided you avoid going over 4K.
High RPMs are to be avoided because a new engine has lots of friction and this generates heat and this heat can cause the oil to break down in some areas.
While high RPMs are to be avoided, higher engine loads, but no lugging!, helps break in.
A short distance is any drive that is insufficient to bring the engine up to full operating temperature. Based on my observation this can take 10 minutes or longer (depends upon the ambient temperature) of driving.
The concern is a new engine experiences more blowby which contaminates the oil even worse than a broken in engine. This contamination contains water and the water build up can be quite severe. Short trips add to this water build up while not getting the oil hot enough to boil out the water it has accumulated.
At 4K miles I had the oil in my 2002 Boxster analyzed and it found 7% water content. And I engaged in long drives on average more than once a week.
This amount of water prompted me to monitor engine coolant temperature and I then found just how cold blooded these engines are how long they take to reach "operating" temperature and how in different ambient temperatures just what "operating" temperature means.
(The amount of water also prompted me to ignore the 15K mile oil and 30K mile filter service interval the factory called for and instead adapt a 5K mile oil *and* filter service interval. Over 300K miles later the engine is still very healthy and part of this I think is due to the 5K mile oil/filter services.)
Regarding operating temperates: In real cold weather coolant temps in the 180F degree range were common while in real hot weather 226F temps were observed. A steady 226F too.
If you can't really avoid short trips at least try to say once a week take a nice long drive -- 30 minutes or longer -- with a mix of city driving and freeway driving (but avoiding driving at a steady speed for long periods of time) to get the engine oil nice and hot and give the water a chance to boil out.
The longer drive helps replenish the battery too. It suffers some discharge from starting the engine and needs some engine run time to be recharged. Short trips may not be long enough to have the battery fully topped up and over time the battery suffers a steady decline in charge. A new battery can tolerate this but it shortens its life.
Also, consider an early oil/filter service. I changed the oil in my new 2008 Cayman S at 750 miles and was glad I did. The oil filter housing oil was full of metal flake (aluminum) -- albeit very fine metal flake. Then I changed the oil again at nearly 1500 miles and then just to be "safe" had it changed at 2K miles at the end of "break in".
Just so it is clear I had no intention of at 2000 miles suddenly thrashing the heck out of the engine because "break in" was over. I was going to spend the next 4K miles -- I had a nice road trip planned for the car -- upping the self imposed rev limit from 4K to much higher but progressively over the trip. Thus I wanted fresh oil in the engine at the end of break in. After seeing what the engine oil looked like at 750 miles and even at 1500 miles I was happy to have the oil changed again at 2K miles.
Might mention here that break in doesn't end at 2K miles. Lab and field tests have found break in continues for thousands of miles beyond the nominal break in period but the break in has advanced to a point the engine is ok with higher engine speeds and loads but you need to give it some help and fresh oil is the best help you can give it.
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08-09-2017, 11:29 PM
#8
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Clue us in. If I spent $170 on a Cayman in the US it would have just about everything including the Burnmester stereo full leather interior and someone to drive it for me (why bother).
08-10-2017, 12:09 AM
#9
Late Porkchops
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^^ I was gong to say Australia or China - then I saw the "Australia " up above in his post.
The Luxury Car Tax is in effect - the Aussie Fed gets more from the sale of the car than does Porsche.
It is just what happens when you get any Gov's punch drunk and fat on taxes.
The Luxury Car Tax is in effect - the Aussie Fed gets more from the sale of the car than does Porsche.
It is just what happens when you get any Gov's punch drunk and fat on taxes.
08-10-2017, 08:36 AM
#11
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Correct, us Australian's get slapped with luxury car tax for all cars over 50k or 60k, I'm not sure what the amount is, but it's significant. We also have to pay what's called stamp duty, which a government fee and equates to $40 for every $1000 spent, and another tax called GST which is 10% of the purchase price.
And finally, the AUD is 0.79 USD, so the $170k purchase price is actually $133k USD.
And finally, the AUD is 0.79 USD, so the $170k purchase price is actually $133k USD.
08-14-2017, 09:36 PM
#12
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I have a new 718 with 1,000 miles. I live 4 miles from work and it reaches normal 194' normal temperature by the time I drive 3 miles, although oil temp is not quite that. Cayman reaches normal temp quickly. As with all vehicles I own, I take it easy until engine and oil have reached normal operating temp. I plan to do oil/filter change ev 5,000 miles.
Like to hear from you which weight do you use 5W-40 or 5W-50?
Like to hear from you which weight do you use 5W-40 or 5W-50?
08-14-2017, 09:53 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Correct, us Australian's get slapped with luxury car tax for all cars over 50k or 60k, I'm not sure what the amount is, but it's significant. We also have to pay what's called stamp duty, which a government fee and equates to $40 for every $1000 spent, and another tax called GST which is 10% of the purchase price.
And finally, the AUD is 0.79 USD, so the $170k purchase price is actually $133k USD.
And finally, the AUD is 0.79 USD, so the $170k purchase price is actually $133k USD.
08-15-2017, 12:57 PM
#14
Late Porkchops
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I have a new 718 with 1,000 miles. I live 4 miles from work and it reaches normal 194' normal temperature by the time I drive 3 miles, although oil temp is not quite that. Cayman reaches normal temp quickly. As with all vehicles I own, I take it easy until engine and oil have reached normal operating temp. I plan to do oil/filter change ev 5,000 miles.
Like to hear from you which weight do you use 5W-40 or 5W-50?
Like to hear from you which weight do you use 5W-40 or 5W-50?
