Just turned 200k on my '06 CTTS!
#16
You are correct, it is a diesel truck oil. I ran it in my S8 for 100k without any trouble to the converters. Plus I live in FL so we don't have emissions testing
#17
Nordschleife Master
Refurb items so far (since 160k):
Cardan shaft replacement ($1400)
Trailer control box ($800)
Crankcase position sensor ($300)
Valve stem on one wheel ($50)
Hood lift support ($30)
Battery ($180)
Intake boots ($25)
Rear console vent ($250)
Front console vent ($300)
Cabin filter ($25)
Power outlet cap ($15)
Worn carpet under driver's seat ($80)
275/40R-20 Hankook Ventus ST RH06 XL ($700)
Cardan shafts go every 80k mi on average.
LOVE this car!
Cardan shaft replacement ($1400)
Trailer control box ($800)
Crankcase position sensor ($300)
Valve stem on one wheel ($50)
Hood lift support ($30)
Battery ($180)
Intake boots ($25)
Rear console vent ($250)
Front console vent ($300)
Cabin filter ($25)
Power outlet cap ($15)
Worn carpet under driver's seat ($80)
275/40R-20 Hankook Ventus ST RH06 XL ($700)
Cardan shafts go every 80k mi on average.
LOVE this car!
#18
I have 132K on my '04 CTT. My last oil change I switched to Rotella 5w-40, and my oil consumption is down compared to Mobil1 0w-40. I do oil changes every 5k miles. I'm at 4k on my current oil change and only had to add about half a quart so far. I'm sticking with Rotella from now on.
In the last 10k miles if done the following:
Coils and plugs
Valve cover gaskets
Torque converter seal
Starter
Battery
front upper and lower control arms
inner and out tierods
swaybar end-links
secondary air pump and valve
brake booster vacuum pump
various vacuum lines and emission tubes
Both coolant T's
Boost solenoid
air intake y-pipe
Transmission filter and fluid
Transfercase and differential service
diverter valves
tires
gas cap
Rear hatch and window struts
rear hatch handle
drivers door latch
Pioneer App radio
I'm sure there's more that I've done, but can't think of them right now. Luckily I do all my on repairs so I save a ton in labor cost.
In the last 10k miles if done the following:
Coils and plugs
Valve cover gaskets
Torque converter seal
Starter
Battery
front upper and lower control arms
inner and out tierods
swaybar end-links
secondary air pump and valve
brake booster vacuum pump
various vacuum lines and emission tubes
Both coolant T's
Boost solenoid
air intake y-pipe
Transmission filter and fluid
Transfercase and differential service
diverter valves
tires
gas cap
Rear hatch and window struts
rear hatch handle
drivers door latch
Pioneer App radio
I'm sure there's more that I've done, but can't think of them right now. Luckily I do all my on repairs so I save a ton in labor cost.
#19
Haven't yet, no. At 180k dealer checked bushings and they looked good. Getting them checked again at next brake fluid flush. I did have a front boot that is recently torn and will be getting repaired.
#20
Nordschleife Master
I think you're the only guy that hasn't had to replace those items that I know of. Remarkable! Definitely buy a lotto ticket because you are one lucky SOB.
#21
Three Wheelin'
I replaced mine with a New Lobro shaft for $500. Lobro makes it for Porsche OEM. A lot less than purchasing it from Porsche. When it goes bad, and I'm sure it will I plan on giving the Lindsey racing Aluminum shaft a try, they're made by "The Driveshaft shop" which is a reputable company when it comes to Driveshafts.
#22
Here are the results from my last oil change. 11,022 miles (majority highway) on Shell Rotella 5w-40 with 1qt top off between changes. The comment on the report said that it could be extended to 13k based on the additives left but I'm gonna stick to ~10k.
#23
Had it in the dealer for an axle boot replacement, which turned out to be $1k b/c they pulled the axle out and it came apart and they said no way to put it back together. 203k on it, so, meh. Two of the mechs said they've never seen a cleaner Cayenne with this many miles, said it looked new. 205k now and still a proud owner!
#24
Rennlist Member
136k on my 06 CTTS now. Previous owner had to replace the coolant pipes and T's, cardan shaft and hatch struts.
I had to replace the torque convertor seal right after I bought it, lower control arms, brakes, evap valve, 1 headlight bulb, the rear hatch glass microswitch, coolant reservoir, water pump and I did the hatch struts again since the headliner was out and they were right there.
I kinda did the water pump pro-actively, it hadn't outright failed but was weeping a little. I do most of the work on truck myself, dealer handles the big jobs I don't feel like doing.
When the truck goes to the dealer for the fuel pump flange recall I'll have them replace the fuel pumps at the same time.
I had to replace the torque convertor seal right after I bought it, lower control arms, brakes, evap valve, 1 headlight bulb, the rear hatch glass microswitch, coolant reservoir, water pump and I did the hatch struts again since the headliner was out and they were right there.
I kinda did the water pump pro-actively, it hadn't outright failed but was weeping a little. I do most of the work on truck myself, dealer handles the big jobs I don't feel like doing.
When the truck goes to the dealer for the fuel pump flange recall I'll have them replace the fuel pumps at the same time.