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Working on the P!G, need some help!

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Old 12-17-2016, 08:51 PM
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dpatel710
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Default Working on the P!G, need some help!

Hey All,

Doing a bunch of work on the 955 CTT and ran into a couple of snags.

First, this was my first time pulling the intake manifold. I mixed up some of the vacuum lines at the rear of the manifold. I can hear a loud hissing noise while the engine is running but all the lines are connected. Doing the coolant T's, I disconnect the gaggle of lines and Im 99% sure that at the end of a long day, I crossed some around. Does anyone have a picture or diagram of where the hoses at the back of the intake are suppose to be?

Second, I am also doing a coolant flush. I drained it at the plug on the bottom of the radiator and caught 1.5-2 gal of coolant. How can I drain the rest from the block? When I bought the car, it started leaking coolant and I topped it off with several gallons of distilled water before throwing in the towel and having it towed. Therefore, I would like to drain as much of the system as I can and fill it with the correct dilution.

Last one - I have fluid leaking at the input of the front differential. What's it take to R&R this one? On my last car (Audi), the diff output flange seals were the culprit for these kinds of leaks.

Outside of that, it was surprisingly smooth sailing. Did the coolant T's, CET replacement, torque strut, and valve cover/spark plug/cam seals. Found out I need new coil packs though

Thanks for the help guys!





Front diff leak
Old 12-22-2016, 02:52 AM
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Klax
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I recently rebuilt my front diff and those seals are in there tight against the housing. With the diff out of the car and pinion shaft removed they come out easy with a couple good whacks from slide hammer with puller attachment. Because of the depth and odd angles of the housing its hard to pry them out so replacing with the diff in place is going to be hard. You'd probably want to screw some sheet metal screws into the face of the seal and through the metal backing ring and create some sort of pulling tool. New seal can be tapped in carefully. Realize that the pinion nut takes several hundred lb/ft of torque to remove and install, and you'll have upset the factory bearing preload settings in doing all this.



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