Jamescoop

Starting to talk to a couple shops about dropping the motor for a upper oil pan reseal...127k miles on 957 CTTS w/PDCC
What else should I consider "while im in there'? Id like to set this up for worry free but also realize a lot fo the common issues are fairly easy to fix with engine in car (y-pipe, etc)

Must-do:
Upper oil pan seal & oring (failed) will replace all 29 bolts and add thread sealant to them
Replace engine mounts (preventative)
Replace engine oil pressure sensor (already failed)
Wondering about replacing the lower oil pan/gasket as thats what Porsche does

Nice-to-do
I was thinking the oil cooler as my last one failed at 130k (preventative - all oil and coolant will be out anyways)
Also the valve cover gaskets (preventative) this isnt hard to do in the car, but my last one failed about 120k
The pulleys and belt (preventative) kit is nearly $400 - maybe do this as opposed to valve covers
I was thinking pulling intake and cleaning valves, replaceing y-pipe but again, not too hard in car (and eurowise doesnt have metal y-pipe in stock).

What else should be on one of these lists? TIA

TRINITONY

Pin the water distributor at the rear, change oxygen sensors, change oil pressure sensor, add catch can and maybe vacuum pump.

v10rick

For piece of mind...while the oil pan is off inspect the cylinder bores for scoring.

Below the pistons is where early signs of scoring are visible.

Jamescoop

Already going to do pressure sensor.
What's pinning the water distributor?
Do o2 sensors really fail and and they inaccessible?
I'll do catch can when engine is in the car. Was thinking of cleaning out turbo though.
​​​​​​​What's the vacuum pump? For brakes?

v10rick

What's the vacuum pump? For brakes?
The evac pump provides vacuum for the brakes and emissions system.
It can be replaced with the engine in, but way easier with it out.

What's pinning the water distributor?
The water distributor hose fitting has been known to pop out of the water manifold, on the rear of the engine.

Consider the engine driven high pressure fuel pump, opposite side of the engine to the vacuum pump, if it has not been replaced recently.

TomF

^^THIS^^ While very expensive, they are a wear item and need to be replaced every 100-120K or so. Make sure you get the correct one for a CTTS! They are not, I repeat, not the same. You can find my adventures with my HPFP on another thread.
Cheers!

jeff spahn

rebuild the turbos. you can't replace the oil seals, that will fail, with engine in. roger at 928srus can point you to a good rebuilder that is "reasonable"

TRINITONY

I started off saying HPFP, but then based on cost and being that it's not overly difficult to change, I opted to mention the vacuum pump. To me changing the vacuum pump was harder than the HPFP as you have less room. Bottom line both are in PIA, so money no object go for it.

TRINITONY

And while you're at it, change the alternator, as that's another royal PIA to get to.

Jamescoop

$4k for hpfp on fcp -- ill wait lol. Even if its a PITA to get to, thats a LOT in preventative $$
Vacuum pump ~$150 so thats a possibility

And yeah was thining the alternator. This one is covered in grime from a long time of leaking i think.

TomF

Whew! $4k is insane... I am willing to scrape a lot of knuckles and lose a lot of blood down the road for that price.

BamaScoot

Agreed on alternator. Add any hoses that are hard to get to with the engine in. Replace as much plastic and rubber as you can.

Jamescoop

Know where to have an alt rebuilt / where to buy rebuild kit?

Jamescoop

What about timing chain/guide/tensioners?

theprf

I did not change the timing chain or chain guides.
I did check the cam timing. Both left cams were fine. The right intake cam was fine while the right exhaust cam was quite a bit retarded. I just loosened the sprocket bolt and reset the right exh cam. Been driving great for the last 12 months and 10k miles.
This is easier on a 955 as no special tools are needed. I think the 957 needs a special tool to set cam timing.