Lights in the tail gate 2009 Cayenne
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lights in the tail gate 2009 Cayenne
I was installing the LED interior light kit from Suncoast and apparently killed a fuse or hit a switch or something and even the original bulbs back in (and tested at a different connector) none of the 2 white lights or the 1 red light on the tail gate will come on now.
I downloaded a fuse layout a few days ago and can't find a fuse on the list that seems like it would be for them.
Everything else works, including power outlets in the back. All other lights are working.
I am still waiting for my owners manual from Suncoast and can't find one online. That might tell me what I need to know but I don't have it right now.
As an aside, having the interior all LED is very sharp, all footwell lights, glove box, console, etc is nice.
Another aside, the more I drive this thing, the better I like it. I have noticed that it usually starts off in D2 so I tried M1 and M2. It pulls off just fine in D2 or M2 and M1 was really a low gear. I guess 1st is some sort of granny gear.
I downloaded a fuse layout a few days ago and can't find a fuse on the list that seems like it would be for them.
Everything else works, including power outlets in the back. All other lights are working.
I am still waiting for my owners manual from Suncoast and can't find one online. That might tell me what I need to know but I don't have it right now.
As an aside, having the interior all LED is very sharp, all footwell lights, glove box, console, etc is nice.
Another aside, the more I drive this thing, the better I like it. I have noticed that it usually starts off in D2 so I tried M1 and M2. It pulls off just fine in D2 or M2 and M1 was really a low gear. I guess 1st is some sort of granny gear.
#2
Rennlist Member
The Cayenne electrical system is like none other. You would think the lights are individually fused...not a chance and the reason you cannot locate it on the fuse diagram.
The electrical devices in the rear of the vehicle are powered by the Comfort Systems Control unit, mounted in the rear cargo area (right side).
The lights and just about all else back there are wired directly to that module.
The 4 fuses that power the unit are #15 and #53 (dash left side) and #31 and #14 (dash right side) You could try pulling the fuses to reset the module.
If all else appears to be working and the wiring is not an issue the module may need to be reset using a scan tool.
The electrical devices in the rear of the vehicle are powered by the Comfort Systems Control unit, mounted in the rear cargo area (right side).
The lights and just about all else back there are wired directly to that module.
The 4 fuses that power the unit are #15 and #53 (dash left side) and #31 and #14 (dash right side) You could try pulling the fuses to reset the module.
If all else appears to be working and the wiring is not an issue the module may need to be reset using a scan tool.
Last edited by v10rick; 11-06-2016 at 10:07 PM.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, I will check those.
If I need to reset it, I have a plain old scan tool and a Durametric Enthusiast kit.
The scan tool would be easier. Will that do it?
Do I read your sig right, you have a GTS Cayenne with a 6 speed manual. Luck devil.
If I need to reset it, I have a plain old scan tool and a Durametric Enthusiast kit.
The scan tool would be easier. Will that do it?
Do I read your sig right, you have a GTS Cayenne with a 6 speed manual. Luck devil.
#4
Rennlist Member
If required you can try resetting with the Duarametric but I have never used it for that purpose.
Been driving the 6spd GTS for 1 year...there is a grin every time it is started. PSE (sport exhaust) gets attention in busy parking lots as well.
Cayenne M/T is not appropriate for a congested metro area, but where I live shifting is minimal.
Been driving the 6spd GTS for 1 year...there is a grin every time it is started. PSE (sport exhaust) gets attention in busy parking lots as well.
Cayenne M/T is not appropriate for a congested metro area, but where I live shifting is minimal.
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You might be able to reset the module with a battery disconnect and reconnect. Wait about 10 minutes before reconnecting.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I pulled all the fuses, had them all out at the same time, no help.
Will try to reset the Comfort Systems Control unit over the weekend.
More questions:
All of the "trailer connection device" fuses are in place and the online owners manual I found says that
and shows a picture of a connector apparently right in front of that huge muffler but I can't find it.
So, do they all have the connector back there?
I am going to get a factory towing system from Suncoast:
http://www.suncoastparts.com/category/9552_towing.html
or have either a dealer or indy install it or have them get it and install it.
I also have found nothing about a brake controller for a Cayenne. So, you just have an aftermarket installed?
Will try to reset the Comfort Systems Control unit over the weekend.
More questions:
All of the "trailer connection device" fuses are in place and the online owners manual I found says that
Your Porsche is equipped with a 7-pin connector A for the electrical connection to the trailer.
So, do they all have the connector back there?
I am going to get a factory towing system from Suncoast:
http://www.suncoastparts.com/category/9552_towing.html
or have either a dealer or indy install it or have them get it and install it.
I also have found nothing about a brake controller for a Cayenne. So, you just have an aftermarket installed?
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Cayenne electrical system is like none other. You would think the lights are individually fused...not a chance and the reason you cannot locate it on the fuse diagram.
The electrical devices in the rear of the vehicle are powered by the Comfort Systems Control unit, mounted in the rear cargo area (right side).
The lights and just about all else back there are wired directly to that module.
The 4 fuses that power the unit are #15 and #53 (dash left side) and #31 and #14 (dash right side) You could try pulling the fuses to reset the module.
If all else appears to be working and the wiring is not an issue the module may need to be reset using a scan tool.
The electrical devices in the rear of the vehicle are powered by the Comfort Systems Control unit, mounted in the rear cargo area (right side).
The lights and just about all else back there are wired directly to that module.
The 4 fuses that power the unit are #15 and #53 (dash left side) and #31 and #14 (dash right side) You could try pulling the fuses to reset the module.
If all else appears to be working and the wiring is not an issue the module may need to be reset using a scan tool.
What kind did you use?
Trending Topics
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looking with the Durametric, it says it can't talk to that module.
I think I fried it trying to change a bulb. I guess I shorted it and thought I heard a 'zap'. That's when the lights went out.
Is that the unit that is flat and lays horizontally behind the panel on the right side in the rear?
I think I fried it trying to change a bulb. I guess I shorted it and thought I heard a 'zap'. That's when the lights went out.
Is that the unit that is flat and lays horizontally behind the panel on the right side in the rear?
Last edited by rx7turbo; 11-26-2016 at 11:28 PM.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, took it to a Porsche dealer since I can't even talk to it with a scanner or the Durametric and it's throwing a 330 code saying it can't talk to that module.
Dealer says they can't talk to any module in the car at all with their computer and will have to really dig into it.
I will have to take it back later as it drives fine and my only complaint is the lights in the tail gate.
I know getting to the battery is a pain on these but could disconnecting the battery, letting it sit for a few minutes, and then reconnect reset everything, rebooting all the modules/computers?
Dealer says they can't talk to any module in the car at all with their computer and will have to really dig into it.
I will have to take it back later as it drives fine and my only complaint is the lights in the tail gate.
I know getting to the battery is a pain on these but could disconnecting the battery, letting it sit for a few minutes, and then reconnect reset everything, rebooting all the modules/computers?
#10
Rennlist Member
Getting to the battery is a pain, but disconnecting it is not. Pull your driver's side floor mat and you'll see a cut-out in the carpet in front of the seat near the trans tunnel. Pull that piece up and you'll see a ground connection for the battery that take a 13mm. This is where you disconnect the battery for any operation that recommends it.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Getting to the battery is a pain, but disconnecting it is not. Pull your driver's side floor mat and you'll see a cut-out in the carpet in front of the seat near the trans tunnel. Pull that piece up and you'll see a ground connection for the battery that take a 13mm. This is where you disconnect the battery for any operation that recommends it.
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The car runs fine, just the lights in the tail gate won't come on.
All exterior and interior lights, including all the foot wells, glove box, and center console work except those.
I also LEDed the lights in the door mirrors that point down.
It does look sharp at night with that white light in both the interior and exterior, including the bottom of the doors.
I LEDed my Cayman S and Boxster S with no problems. Of course, I am beginning to see that the Cayenne probably has a few more computers.
#14
Rennlist Member
Well, if you want to get back to when things worked then it's basic diagnostics-101 to put them all back.
Electrical gremlins have no respect for what you want. Ya gotta nail down what's known to work, and test it (more than once) otherwise weird **** will keep cropping up.
Yeah, it ought to work... that goes out the window when you hear zaps or you let them magic smoke out.
I'd start by making sure you're working with known good light bulbs and fixtures. This often best done by NOT plugging into the harness. Use a separate 12v source and check that the fixture's socket is OK, that the bulb (powered directly) is working and then that they both work together.
Then check the plugs for where the light fixtures plug into their harness. Make certain there's legit voltage in the connector. Won't do any good to put working fixtures and lights into a dead plug. With all the handling going on when replacing stuff there's always the chance something got pulled out of connector or broken.
There's that moment when you realize, dang it, I've been trying to make this work and a piece I thought was working... isn't.
Electrical gremlins have no respect for what you want. Ya gotta nail down what's known to work, and test it (more than once) otherwise weird **** will keep cropping up.
Yeah, it ought to work... that goes out the window when you hear zaps or you let them magic smoke out.
I'd start by making sure you're working with known good light bulbs and fixtures. This often best done by NOT plugging into the harness. Use a separate 12v source and check that the fixture's socket is OK, that the bulb (powered directly) is working and then that they both work together.
Then check the plugs for where the light fixtures plug into their harness. Make certain there's legit voltage in the connector. Won't do any good to put working fixtures and lights into a dead plug. With all the handling going on when replacing stuff there's always the chance something got pulled out of connector or broken.
There's that moment when you realize, dang it, I've been trying to make this work and a piece I thought was working... isn't.
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, if you want to get back to when things worked then it's basic diagnostics-101 to put them all back.
Electrical gremlins have no respect for what you want. Ya gotta nail down what's known to work, and test it (more than once) otherwise weird **** will keep cropping up.
Yeah, it ought to work... that goes out the window when you hear zaps or you let them magic smoke out.
I'd start by making sure you're working with known good light bulbs and fixtures. This often best done by NOT plugging into the harness. Use a separate 12v source and check that the fixture's socket is OK, that the bulb (powered directly) is working and then that they both work together.
Then check the plugs for where the light fixtures plug into their harness. Make certain there's legit voltage in the connector. Won't do any good to put working fixtures and lights into a dead plug. With all the handling going on when replacing stuff there's always the chance something got pulled out of connector or broken.
There's that moment when you realize, dang it, I've been trying to make this work and a piece I thought was working... isn't.
Electrical gremlins have no respect for what you want. Ya gotta nail down what's known to work, and test it (more than once) otherwise weird **** will keep cropping up.
Yeah, it ought to work... that goes out the window when you hear zaps or you let them magic smoke out.
I'd start by making sure you're working with known good light bulbs and fixtures. This often best done by NOT plugging into the harness. Use a separate 12v source and check that the fixture's socket is OK, that the bulb (powered directly) is working and then that they both work together.
Then check the plugs for where the light fixtures plug into their harness. Make certain there's legit voltage in the connector. Won't do any good to put working fixtures and lights into a dead plug. With all the handling going on when replacing stuff there's always the chance something got pulled out of connector or broken.
There's that moment when you realize, dang it, I've been trying to make this work and a piece I thought was working... isn't.
The three connectors in question have no voltage and that's the problem.