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Took the car for it's first real drive since work on the widebody project began. I'm happy to report that the issues I discovered with the installation of the intercoolers, intake, and diverter valves resolved the performance and CEL issues, and I'm getting strong boost to the end of the gauge, but it's also hard to watch that gauge as things in front if you start happening faster and faster, so I think I'm going to have my son record some video while I focus on the driving.
The repairs also eliminated the loud whistle sound coming from the turbo on the side where the charge pipe was disconnected, so now the sound is just perfect. Under normal conditions it has a performance rumble but is still quiet enough inside the cabin where it won't compromise at all the comfort of the car for our family road trips. Under full throttle and heavy acceleration, it's a different beast with some intake noise, accompanied by more exhaust growl, and then a whoosh as the diverter valves blow off extra boost pressure on deceleration.
Now that I know I don't have any performance issues or noise concerns, today I ordered the Fabspeed tune, which should with the intake snd exhaust mods put me up around 625-650 HP with a nice torque bump as well, along with sharpening the throttle response.
I can also report that the solid aluminum 1-piece driveshaft doesn't cause any drivability issues or harshness, just a nice direct transfer of the power to the ground, and never having to worry about a cardan shaft bearing issue is nice.
Now looking forward to getting the tune installed to see what it can do for me. Prior, I'll try to do some statistics gathering via my p3 Gauge or Durametric with respect to AFRs, boost #s, and MAF readings. If i can keep the AFR #s the same with the tune as without it, that means the DME is compensating with more fuel for higher MAF values, increased which means the car will be making more power. The p3 gauge also displays a digital value for boost, vs just the OEM needle gauge.
More to come after the Fabspeed tune is installed. 👍
You wont pick up any power from the intakes until you tune for it.
Eye opener- log throttle position ,rpm, and boost on a pull. Watch the correlation with focus on throttle position.
Why Fabspeed?
Have you looked into using the knuckles that go with the pccb's versus making adapters?
You wont pick up any power from the intakes until you tune for it.
Eye opener- log throttle position ,rpm, and boost on a pull. Watch the correlation with focus on throttle position.
Why Fabspeed?
Have you looked into using the knuckles that go with the pccb's versus making adapters?
Loving the work and your vision!
Great info as usual, My Haney. I decided to go with Fabspeed because I have a multi-year relationship with them on some of my other cars and haven't had any issues with any of their products or their customer service. I"m also in Philly fairly often for business, so it's easy for me to stop by their place on the way to the airport should any issues come up. They were also the most excited folks I talked to about being a part of this build.
Floor mats are from Autopreme. I actually bought them during their kickstarter program about 2 years ago and they've been in my closet since. They really are as awesome as they look and completely protect the OEM carpeting, which I shampooed and let thoroughly dry before installing them. They look like leather, but are a synthetic material. The dead pedal with crest on the Driver's side is from Rennline.
Using the PCCB knuckles might be worth looking into. I just figured that would be more expensive and a bigger project than taking measurements for the adapters, but the rears might cause an issue with the adapter concept, as I'll have to index them around a concentric circle for the radial PCCB caliper bolts relative to the axial big red mounting positions, though there is about 20mm of space to do this in the upward direction, and the radial bolts are an M12. Front radial mounting bolts are an M14 but the PCCB radial caliper mounting hole positions are a lot wider than the big reds axial positions, and the rotor is 30 mm bigger, so that one should be straightforward. I've sent a note to Tarett Engineering about making the custom adapters and if they can't do it will try to work with Epytec in Germany.
Quick update: First Interstate trip today - car is a beast - forgot how much fun this thing is as 100 MPH flashed by pretty quickly with a couple manual downshifts and some pedal.
Boost is actually pinning at the end of the gauge, well beyond the 0.8 bar last line and staying there. I'm going to put my p3 Gauge into boost mode to see what the car thinks it's seeing through the ECU, but it looks from the gauge that I might be seeing closer to 1 bar (10 pounds). This is before capturing the current stock tune & sending it for Fabspeed for the upgrade, which I'm hoping to do this coming week.
Did my first Cayenne oil change yesterday. Although the car only has about 2,600 miles since I bought it, figured due to the length of time it sat in the body shop and since I don't know what oil was in it or when it was last changed, that it was probably a good idea to put in some fresh high-quality oil. I run Driven DT40 in all my Porsches that require a 5W/40 weight (and DT50 in my others that need the heavier weight). I'll work my way through the other fluids as time permits - transmission, differentials, etc.
All in all, not too bad, having to get the PDCC lines out of the way to access the filter cap is a bit of a pain, but not terrible. I used a long bendy transmission funnel to be able to catch the oil when I opened the cap and route it a few inches over to the drain pan under the car on the lift.
I never liked the idea of plastic components around motor oil so upon reassembly, I used the aluminum filter cap from ECS tuning. Plastic can dry out / fatigue over time with multiple head cycles and as it loses its esters to the atmosphere - just look at the cracked and brittle Cayenne intake plenums as an example (I have an ipd one installled) and use LN Engineering's spin-on filter adapter and canister oil filter on my 997s eliminating the plastic filter housing on those cars as well.
This aluminum cap is a high-quality piece that fits perfectly and has a simpler 19mm end nut for ease of removal and installation without needing a special filter tool. No drips or leaks post-installation. The center piece from the OEM cap just pulls out and then snaps into the ECS cap. Looks like it's purpose is to center the filter in the housing and cap and maybe has a bypass valve built into it.
I had opened the drain plug before going to bed on Saturday night so it drained all night. Took about 8.75 quarts to be just below the "X" in MAX when cold and above and at the full line when warmed up, then checked 3 minutes later. I'll be sending a sample of the oil I pulled over to Blackstone for analysis just to see what was in there and how it looked. I installed the LN Engineering magnetic drain plug as well for extra protection and feel better about the lower 19 ft.lbs. torque spec it requires as well - the OEM plug was really in there and the 8mm hex head was starting to round the corners as well, so probably needed replacing anyway.
The car is running great though - drove it about 200 miles over the weekend. My p3 gauge went as high as 13.9 set on boost, which seems impossible, so maybe boost sent through the ECU to the digital gauge isn't as accurate and the vacuum line run to the OEM gauge, but the car will go well past the 0.8 bar and pin at the end of the gauge for as long as I leave my foot in it, so mechanically, looks like everything is pretty great.
I just sent my ECU file off to Fabspeed this morning so they could write the custom tune so looking forward to getting that installed and seeing what differences I can feel, but the car is so strong now it seems hard to believe it's going to get even better - can't wait.
I received back and installed the Fabspeed Tuned ECU file and had a chance to drive the car about 100 miles on all types of roads yesterday - WOW!
The car runs great and fast. It feels more responsive and stronger pretty much everywhere, like a Cayenne Turbo S+ and I haven't noticed any odd behavior, monitoring AFR, boost, etc. The result is that this thing is just a beast now - thinking it could give my supercharged 911 a run for it's money in 80% of the situations - something this big just shouldn't move like this and the sounds are sublime - not too much of anything (intake noise, exhaust noise, blowoff sounds, etc) - just the right amount of all of it.
A few pics from today now that the car is off the lift and sitting on the floor - these at loading height.
On the PCCB brakes upgrade, I've decided to order the 957 rear calipers that have the axial mounting holes to overcome the issue where the PCCB rotors and the stock rotors are about the same size and the radial holes through the yellow calipers and the axial holes through the red calipers are in about the same place, making it very difficult to have an adapter made. The PCCB rear rotors have the same part # in PET for both the 957 and 958 generation so the rotors I have should work fine, and since they're the expensive part, it made sense to just change to the proper calipers and I'll sell the rear 958 PCCB calipers in the Marketplace or on eBay. I'll have both the 957 and 958 pads on-hand in case they aren't the same. For the fronts, I've just sent photos and measurements off to Epytec in Germany to start the process of having the adapters manufactured to use the 958 Front calipers and rotors on my 957, but that will probably take a few weeks.
From the oil change I did on 4/23, I got the UOA back from Blackstone today. I have no idea what make, grade, or weight of oil was in the car as it's what came in there when I bought it before starting the widebody project. I put only 2,800 miles on it, but had been in there since April 2016 and before driving it more regularly and harder, wanted to start fresh. I was glad to see that things looked pretty good with respect to the TAN & TBN and the Zinc & Phosphorous levels were up near 1,000 PPM which is what I like to see for the valve train. This is not the oil I'll be using long term as aluminum, iron, & copper levels are at least a couple points higher than I see in my other Porsche motors, but still within the acceptable range for this blind sample
.
I also took the car on it's first real road trip today - 2.5 hours. It performed flawlessly with the cruise set in the upper 80s and AFR, Coolant Temps, Intake Air Temps, Boost, etc all looked perfect. I was looking at intake air temps to see what kind of difference from the ambient air temp I was seeing with the HHR intake since they're positioned above, but slightly behind the larger FVD intercoolers. On the highway, they were only 7-10 degrees F higher, which I think is fine and probably not much different than I'd see from the factory airboxes. In traffic they were a bit higher, but not worried about that much since that's not when I'm looking to make power.
Prior to the trip today, I also added Bluetooth streaming audio to work alongside the inherent BT functionality for phone calls. PCM is connected as the phone source and BT receiver as the media source plugged into the AUX jack in the console with the goal being to stream Pandora and Waze info and have handsfree call capability, like I do in my other vehicles.
Bought this from Amazon
Mpow Bluetooth Receiver Transmitter, 2-in-1 Wireless Bluetooth Adapter, Bluetooth Receiver for Car Home Stereo System to Enjoy Music，Bluetooth Transmitter for Enjoyiny Night TV Show (A2DP/AVRCP)
charged it up and plugged it into the USB port for charging and the AUX port, paired it with the phone, and wallah - works perfectly (just have to power it on each time you get in the car and it automatically connects as the media source).
I also lubricated the Pano roof tracks and pivot points with a Teflon Dry Spray Lubricant and treated all the door and roof seals with Gummi Pflege. Roof moves smoother and faster now.
Also, the Atturo AZ850 tires seem just fine. Good cornering grip on the onramps, offramps, and under full throttle overtaking and a smooth ride. I'm actually a bit surprised how good the ride is since I'm running a 22" wheel with a 30 aspect ratio tire at Sport ride height and Normal chassis mode - very smooth and compliant, not harsh at all. When the road surface gets worse, a push of the Comfort button takes care of it and when I want things tighter, a push of the Sport Button does that. What's leff to test on these is wet weather performance and over time the tread life, but with a 315 section width and 12" wide wheel, I'm actually expecting some faster wear - as long as it's even, I'm OK with that as these tires are very reasonably priced with good speed, load, traction, temperature, & treadwear #s.
Returned from the weekend away soccer tournament... the drive home was as awesome as the drive there, but the car was nasty, so had to wash of the bugs and bird crap before I felt right about tucking her back into her spot.
Parking at the tourney this morning was a zoo - popped it into Special terrain mode and climbed up the curb to a nice, safe spot. Even the low bodywork wasn't anywhere near the curb in that mode.
Soccer Moms, you can have your minivans - this is how soccer Dads do it.
04-17-2018, 08:17 PM
