Oil Filter Housing leak 09 GTS
11-06-2015, 11:47 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil Filter Housing leak 09 GTS
I've had an on going problem, 09 GTS had a small leak coming from the Oil filter housing. Bought a new housing and o-ring, changed the oil, and thought that would take care of it. It didn't, I thought I might have fouled it up, nicked the ring or something, so I took it to the dealership to have them address the problem, diagnosed it as the same, Oil Filter housing leak. Dealer replaced the housing and o-ring, ran it through a few thermal cycles said it was bone dry, took the car home, and boom this morning drips under the car. It still leaks !! I'm not really sure what else could be the problem.
Anyone have any experience ??
Thanks
Anyone have any experience ??
Thanks
11-06-2015, 12:38 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Stick your fingernail between the housing lip to make sure it's seated all the way. I find that the torque specs for the filter housing can sometimes leave it not fully bottomed out. I use a strap wrench and have to put in a good number of turns before the housing is fully seated. Make sure to spray it down with some brake cleaner after you're done to wash away any residual oil.
Otherwise, I'd take it back to the dealer.
Otherwise, I'd take it back to the dealer.
11-06-2015, 04:58 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
thank you Wrinkled, I did take it back this morning, apparently there is a leak above the oil filter housing?
not really sure what that means, but it's scheduled to go back in next week to find out. I gather they have to pull the front cowling to get to it. While they are in there is there precautionary service I should address?
not really sure what that means, but it's scheduled to go back in next week to find out. I gather they have to pull the front cowling to get to it. While they are in there is there precautionary service I should address?
11-06-2015, 06:33 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Nothing comes to mind with the front end off. Most of the preventative things can be done from the top or bottom without much issue.
Keep us posted. Would be interesting to hear what oil leak can only be fixed by pulling the front end apart. My first guess would have been a valve cover gasket, but.......
Keep us posted. Would be interesting to hear what oil leak can only be fixed by pulling the front end apart. My first guess would have been a valve cover gasket, but.......
11-07-2015, 09:45 AM
#6
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I hate to break the news to you however, many GTS's suffer from oil leaks other than the typical oil filter element housing. Ask me how I know this....
In general, oil will leak between the oil conducting housing and the engine block. To repair this, the entire front sub-frame must be removed in order to access and remove the oil pan & oil conducting housing. Since there's no gasket between the housing and the block, PAG recommends the use of a high temperature silicone adhesive (part no.000 043 204 58).
Since the oil pan gasket is a non-replaceable item (fused to the oil pan itself), and while you're in there, PAG also recommends replacing the entire oil pan as well many other related o-rings, seals, washers, etc... Once the work is done and the sub-frame re-installed, you'll need a wheel alignment to boot.
Total time allowance of this job exceeds 11 hours with about $1400 in parts. Do the math and this will be a very expensive repair for a few drops of oil....
In general, oil will leak between the oil conducting housing and the engine block. To repair this, the entire front sub-frame must be removed in order to access and remove the oil pan & oil conducting housing. Since there's no gasket between the housing and the block, PAG recommends the use of a high temperature silicone adhesive (part no.000 043 204 58).
Since the oil pan gasket is a non-replaceable item (fused to the oil pan itself), and while you're in there, PAG also recommends replacing the entire oil pan as well many other related o-rings, seals, washers, etc... Once the work is done and the sub-frame re-installed, you'll need a wheel alignment to boot.
Total time allowance of this job exceeds 11 hours with about $1400 in parts. Do the math and this will be a very expensive repair for a few drops of oil....
11-07-2015, 02:50 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I hate to break the news to you however, many GTS's suffer from oil leaks other than the typical oil filter element housing. Ask me how I know this....
In general, oil will leak between the oil conducting housing and the engine block. To repair this, the entire front sub-frame must be removed in order to access and remove the oil pan & oil conducting housing. Since there's no gasket between the housing and the block, PAG recommends the use of a high temperature silicone adhesive (part no.000 043 204 58).
Since the oil pan gasket is a non-replaceable item (fused to the oil pan itself), and while you're in there, PAG also recommends replacing the entire oil pan as well many other related o-rings, seals, washers, etc... Once the work is done and the sub-frame re-installed, you'll need a wheel alignment to boot.
Total time allowance of this job exceeds 11 hours with about $1400 in parts. Do the math and this will be a very expensive repair for a few drops of oil....
In general, oil will leak between the oil conducting housing and the engine block. To repair this, the entire front sub-frame must be removed in order to access and remove the oil pan & oil conducting housing. Since there's no gasket between the housing and the block, PAG recommends the use of a high temperature silicone adhesive (part no.000 043 204 58).
Since the oil pan gasket is a non-replaceable item (fused to the oil pan itself), and while you're in there, PAG also recommends replacing the entire oil pan as well many other related o-rings, seals, washers, etc... Once the work is done and the sub-frame re-installed, you'll need a wheel alignment to boot.
Total time allowance of this job exceeds 11 hours with about $1400 in parts. Do the math and this will be a very expensive repair for a few drops of oil....
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11-25-2015, 01:08 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Just a follow up, It appears it was exactly as you stated Andy! The question I have is assuming this issue is addressed correctly, dropping the sub-frame and all, and not just partially dropping the pan. Is this an ongoing problem with these motors that warrant continued observation? My warranty company has not been the easiest to deal with in that they will only cover what their "book" says needs to be replaced and not Porsche's recommendation. Which dumb founds me. It's a big job!!
I have to say so far my dealership has been very accommodating, which honestly, they should, no one should have to spend this kind of coin on a well maintained motor that has less than 45k
I have to say so far my dealership has been very accommodating, which honestly, they should, no one should have to spend this kind of coin on a well maintained motor that has less than 45k
11-27-2015, 09:47 AM
#9
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
PAG recommends the replacement of many components that, IMHO, may be overkill. However, given the fact that the job takes over 11 hours to perform, you really don't want to scrimp on some of these parts which may result in having to do the job all over again.
An interesting note: To diagnose the origin of a leak, there are many dyes and powders on the market today that are commonly used. Wurth produces a leak finding powder in a spray-can format. The oily area is steam-cleaned and the powder is sprayed onto the affected components. The powder hygroscopically absorbs the oil in the affected area by producing a wet spot within the powdered cluster.
http://www.shopwurthusa.com/wurthsto...)-/p/886102712
12-20-2015, 05:19 PM
#10
Instructor
What do you think the consequences might be if you ignored this repair and continued to drive it, putting up with the few drops? I think I have the same problem (but only a few drops in several days), but am not sure yet. New oil/filter did not remedy it. I'll have the mechanic re-check the installation (done by indy). Thanks for the Wurth information. (2010 GTS, 77K mi)
Oil pan replaced twice, last one about 20K mi. ago (previous owner, so that's all I know).
Oil pan replaced twice, last one about 20K mi. ago (previous owner, so that's all I know).
Last edited by Thomas42; 12-20-2015 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Additional information
12-21-2015, 12:50 PM
#11
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
This leak cannot be compared to that of early 996/997 engines that experience RMS failures. There's no immediate danger of running your car with this leak.
Keep a close eye on your driveway as well as the engine oil level, and top off if necessary. If & when the puddle becomes considerably large, you can make the decision to repair or not.
Keep a close eye on your driveway as well as the engine oil level, and top off if necessary. If & when the puddle becomes considerably large, you can make the decision to repair or not.
12-21-2015, 01:16 PM
#12
Instructor
That's about right. Some owners are horrified at any leaks. My orange 911T, which I bought new in 1971 and owned for 29 years, developed some leaks over the years that I lived with. But when my German indy went to visit the factory in Stuttgart in the '80's, the factory mechanics indignantly stated that "Porsches don't leak"! We both got a great laugh out of that one.
12-21-2015, 03:11 PM
#13
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
That's about right. Some owners are horrified at any leaks. My orange 911T, which I bought new in 1971 and owned for 29 years, developed some leaks over the years that I lived with. But when my German indy went to visit the factory in Stuttgart in the '80's, the factory mechanics indignantly stated that "Porsches don't leak"! We both got a great laugh out of that one.
Oil leaks, good A/C and even cup holders now come standard on all modern Porsches!
12-21-2015, 03:40 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
To the best of my knowledge, not all GTS's suffer from this issue but many have been diagnosed with it.
PAG recommends the replacement of many components that, IMHO, may be overkill. However, given the fact that the job takes over 11 hours to perform, you really don't want to scrimp on some of these parts which may result in having to do the job all over again.
An interesting note: To diagnose the origin of a leak, there are many dyes and powders on the market today that are commonly used. Wurth produces a leak finding powder in a spray-can format. The oily area is steam-cleaned and the powder is sprayed onto the affected components. The powder hygroscopically absorbs the oil in the affected area by producing a wet spot within the powdered cluster.
http://www.shopwurthusa.com/wurthsto...)-/p/886102712
PAG recommends the replacement of many components that, IMHO, may be overkill. However, given the fact that the job takes over 11 hours to perform, you really don't want to scrimp on some of these parts which may result in having to do the job all over again.
An interesting note: To diagnose the origin of a leak, there are many dyes and powders on the market today that are commonly used. Wurth produces a leak finding powder in a spray-can format. The oily area is steam-cleaned and the powder is sprayed onto the affected components. The powder hygroscopically absorbs the oil in the affected area by producing a wet spot within the powdered cluster.
http://www.shopwurthusa.com/wurthsto...)-/p/886102712