Brake pad procedure for 2011 Cayenne
#31
Three Wheelin'
Very good write up on front brake job on a 2011 Cayenne by 911SLOW. Thank you (I've yet to find anything on the web about these types of calipers - lots of info on the older style). One question: What size bit is the brake caliper bolt? It looks like a star (Torx - 6 pt) maybe a T55 or T60 or T70. Anyone know? Mine Cayenne is a Turbo with the red calipers and 20" wheels. Also, what is the torque rating on this bolt? Thanks for the help.
Jim in St. Louis.
Jim in St. Louis.
#32
Three Wheelin'
Added more photos. Changed the pads today. 30 min per side.
4.0. Turn the wheel so the calipers point outwards.
Remove upper attachment for brake line first.
Then lower.
4.0. Turn the wheel so the calipers point outwards.
Remove upper attachment for brake line first.
Then lower.
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deilenberger (09-24-2020)
#33
Three Wheelin'
More photos
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deilenberger (09-24-2020)
#34
A few more details
I replaced all 4 pads and rotors on my '11 CS today and these instructions worked pretty well. Here are a couple of additional points:
- the screw that holds in the upper brake line guide on the fronts is, as pointed out by another poster, inaccessible when the wheel is off the ground. You can get to this easily, though, by reaching in above the tire before jacking up the car. I think it's a T30 (closest I had was a T27 and that worked)
- I bought the Lisle 25750 pad spreader since I was afraid my usual tool (a big wood clamp) wouldn't push in the 6-piston calipers. The Lisle didn't work well at all - it was only able to connect with a few MM of pad. The orange Lang tool someone else used looks like it would've worked much better.
- I didn't buy the special pins to support the front rotors. I used a sturdy cardboard box that was the right height to support the rotor and it worked just fine, front and back.
- The rotors are held on by a T50 bolt - I had to run out and buy the socket as I didn't see it mentioned anywhere else.
- The pad warning went away without resetting anything - just replaced the 4 sensors.
Overall, not the easiest brake job I've ever done, but not too bad. Was nice not to have to take the springs out. Took me about 5 hours total, including a good cleaning of all the wheels while off the vehicle, prep, and cleanup. Compared to $2500 at the dealer, I spent $500 in parts and paid myself $400/hour.
- the screw that holds in the upper brake line guide on the fronts is, as pointed out by another poster, inaccessible when the wheel is off the ground. You can get to this easily, though, by reaching in above the tire before jacking up the car. I think it's a T30 (closest I had was a T27 and that worked)
- I bought the Lisle 25750 pad spreader since I was afraid my usual tool (a big wood clamp) wouldn't push in the 6-piston calipers. The Lisle didn't work well at all - it was only able to connect with a few MM of pad. The orange Lang tool someone else used looks like it would've worked much better.
- I didn't buy the special pins to support the front rotors. I used a sturdy cardboard box that was the right height to support the rotor and it worked just fine, front and back.
- The rotors are held on by a T50 bolt - I had to run out and buy the socket as I didn't see it mentioned anywhere else.
- The pad warning went away without resetting anything - just replaced the 4 sensors.
Overall, not the easiest brake job I've ever done, but not too bad. Was nice not to have to take the springs out. Took me about 5 hours total, including a good cleaning of all the wheels while off the vehicle, prep, and cleanup. Compared to $2500 at the dealer, I spent $500 in parts and paid myself $400/hour.
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Rcayenne2011 (11-10-2023)
#35
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BTW - on a 2011 CTT - torque of the Torx bolts holding the caliper on are 104ft/lbs. Ditto on the wheel lugs - handy - don't have to reset my clicker torque wrench.
#36
tgavem - what are the torque vales for the caliper bolts with the silver 958S rotors? having trouble finding a clear answer anywhere. Seems to be 104 ft-lb from what I can tell. Thx!
#37
Although initially resistant to tell me (they said for safety liability reasons...), my dealer confirmed that silver caliper bolts run same torque as red caliper ones - 104 ft-lb. They added that with the crush bolts, set 90 ft-lbs, wait about 10mins then torque to 104 ft-lb. Brake change was easier than expected with second rear and second front brakes taking 1/3 the time. Changed rotors (Zimmerman Z) and pads (Pagid). Rear rotors also require a 5mm spline bit.
#38
i bought the EBC yellow pads for the cayenne and only have those round metal things on one set of the pads
there are the pads i bought
https://www.shopebcbrakes.com/EBC-Ye...ubmodel12_key=
#39
Three Wheelin'
[QUOTE=wthayer;13208254
- the screw that holds in the upper brake line guide on the fronts is, as pointed out by another poster, inaccessible when the wheel is off the ground. You can get to this easily, though, by reaching in above the tire before jacking up the car. I think it's a T30 (closest I had was a T27 and that worked).[/QUOTE]
If you turn the wheel all the way left for driver side and all the way right for passenger side with car jacked up and wheel off. These bolts become accessible. Crazy designers and engineers.
- the screw that holds in the upper brake line guide on the fronts is, as pointed out by another poster, inaccessible when the wheel is off the ground. You can get to this easily, though, by reaching in above the tire before jacking up the car. I think it's a T30 (closest I had was a T27 and that worked).[/QUOTE]
If you turn the wheel all the way left for driver side and all the way right for passenger side with car jacked up and wheel off. These bolts become accessible. Crazy designers and engineers.
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cbracerx (08-22-2021)
#44
Rotor Size
I feel like someone in this thread would be able to answer this question. What is the OEM rotor size for the 2013 Cayenne Base V6, Tiptronic (Black Caliper)? Is it 360mm or 350mm? Thanks in advance!
#45
Instructor
I will be changing the pads on my 958.2 ehybrid to a low-dust ceramic pad, and was wondering how difficult it is to remove and replace the pad springs from the caliper. Is this necessary given that my car has 9Kmi and has used mostly regenerative braking? The aftermarket pads I purchased do come with a new set of pad springs.
If the springs need to removed, any tools or techniques to make the process easier and to avoid bending the springs?
If the springs need to removed, any tools or techniques to make the process easier and to avoid bending the springs?