Here's your front end clunking
#16
I have a clunk on the front left and looked at it today and sure enough, torn rear bushing.
While searching for new lower control arms I found a rear bushing replacement.
Anyone tried one of these?
Wonder how they would last compared to the factory part?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...1&apwid2WmzYyT
While searching for new lower control arms I found a rear bushing replacement.
Anyone tried one of these?
Wonder how they would last compared to the factory part?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...1&apwid2WmzYyT
#17
Well Im slow at work so today im going to swap out the lower control arms with new....less work than having to press bushings in/out and also since we do NOT have a press here(idk why at a service shop doesnt have a press)... so I will post pics as I find the damages...hahaha
#19
Crappy Blackberry pic sorry.... Drivers side rear bushing was torn and the metal insert was VERY loose... right side was not too bad.... it took me longer to algin it then to put the arms in, but it drives like a dream now...I also found that the sway bar link on the p-side was loose too.... Istill have the old arms if anyone plans do just press the bushings IN/OUT instead of buying the arms like I did..( Bushings front and rear from the P stealership were $110 for all 4, arms were $230 EACH!!!)
Carl
Carl
#21
Not that I have been able to find. I did a lot of searching on this recently.
Looks like there is one company making an aftermarket bushing replacement, but they are just like stock.
The only "upgrade" I have been able to find is to run "Turbo S/E81" bushings/control arms. (exact same price as stock replacements).
At this point I'm only speculating that they will be more durable. I have the arms ready to go on. I will take pictures if there is any notable difference between the arms and bushings.
#22
FWIW,
Here is my torn "Turbo/S/Cayenne" arm that came out of my CTT and the "Turbo S" arm that went in.
I know it looks like the offset of the hole is different, but I measured them with calipers and the hole is in the exact same spot. Just different rubber and obviously a differnt center steel bushing.
These are the exact same price as all the other arms.
Here is my torn "Turbo/S/Cayenne" arm that came out of my CTT and the "Turbo S" arm that went in.
I know it looks like the offset of the hole is different, but I measured them with calipers and the hole is in the exact same spot. Just different rubber and obviously a differnt center steel bushing.
These are the exact same price as all the other arms.
#25
I wish I could make the cars and coffee tomorrow, I work on Saturdays unfortunately.
We live 5 minutes from there otherwise
If it's not snowing by next month and they keep it going, I'll stop by and introduce myself.
We live 5 minutes from there otherwise
If it's not snowing by next month and they keep it going, I'll stop by and introduce myself.
#26
Burning Brakes
ok, this seems to be what I have been looking for when searching the threads........
@cole and scottitude.........what are suggestions to lower the blow on the pocket book? Suncoast, ebay for parts? I can do the oil and filter changes but I just have chocks to drive up on and I think this stuff is too much for me to handle.
What should I prepare for cost wise, parts*where to buy and what, and labor......just go to any old mechanic or this is a dealership must?
Thanks sorry if I pinged yall on too many other threads.
I was just about to throw some more toys on the Jeep but looks like its going into the Cayenne.
@cole and scottitude.........what are suggestions to lower the blow on the pocket book? Suncoast, ebay for parts? I can do the oil and filter changes but I just have chocks to drive up on and I think this stuff is too much for me to handle.
What should I prepare for cost wise, parts*where to buy and what, and labor......just go to any old mechanic or this is a dealership must?
Thanks sorry if I pinged yall on too many other threads.
I was just about to throw some more toys on the Jeep but looks like its going into the Cayenne.
#27
I picked up the parts from a local independent shop. The CTTS arms cost exactly the same as any of the others. They are all around $250 ish each. (you need 2).
It really is a pretty simple job. Can be done with 1 jack, 1 jack stand, a tie rod separator (can be "rented" for free at your local auto parts store), socket set and a Sharpie.
Should be fairly reasonable at an independent shop too.
It really is a pretty simple job. Can be done with 1 jack, 1 jack stand, a tie rod separator (can be "rented" for free at your local auto parts store), socket set and a Sharpie.
Should be fairly reasonable at an independent shop too.
#28
I'll toss a few pics in here for good measure.
Here is with the arm out. Just 3 bolts and one ball joint. These are not under any sort of pressure when the tire is off and the car is not sitting on them. So just unbolt, remove, replace. Mark the cam bolt positions with a Sharpie and when you install the new arms your alignment settings will be exactly where they were before.
You can see here there was nothing fancy about the process. Just a few hand tools and a floor jack. Took me just a few short hours to do.
Here is with the arm out. Just 3 bolts and one ball joint. These are not under any sort of pressure when the tire is off and the car is not sitting on them. So just unbolt, remove, replace. Mark the cam bolt positions with a Sharpie and when you install the new arms your alignment settings will be exactly where they were before.
You can see here there was nothing fancy about the process. Just a few hand tools and a floor jack. Took me just a few short hours to do.
#29
I'm in the same boat as Blade-MD. I've found I can duplicate my "clunk" going downhill at a fairly low speed. Other than that it's rare and hard to duplicate. Sounds like this may be it... passengers side rear if my buttgauge is accurate.
No way to tell without dropping that end of the arm huh?
No way to tell without dropping that end of the arm huh?