s4for5

I don't want to cut up the passenger side rug only to find no filter.
TIA

madburg

Real quick, I went to TWISI and printed out the offical WB. As i felt the same way about the rug and seals. The drivers side is where the filter is, but it states you need a specialty tool to open and close (104lb ft torque) so we need to check with Carl how he did this. With or without the tool?

So please don't open the passenger side that is where the regulator is ( only ).

madburg

Ok here is what I found out from this post and the Porsche Work Book and getting started/prepared.
Required:
12 point / triple square 10mm
10mm socket
Fuel Siphon / fuel storage tank
Fuel Tank Wrench #T10202 (VW) - Specialty Tool
Fuel Filter #955-620-841-00
Sealing Ring #955-620-841-00

1) Fold Rear seats (lowers) forward. You will be working on the drivers side, as that is where the fuel filter resides. There are two fuel pumps L/R and access to them is the same procedure for both side in the rear seating area. But this is a DYI for the Fuel Filter replacement so we are only working on the Left connection unit (aka Drivers Side.). The right side has a pressure regulator.

2) I removed the Upper Rear Seats, a) disconnect the heated seat quick disconnect first, b) one T30 screw located in between the two seats and off you go (drivers side completely, passenger side moved to the hatch as the middle belt is attached to the 12pt...). This gave me better access to the (4) 12 point / Triple Square 10mm seatbelt bolts (drivers side), they have loctite blue on them, real fun, take your time. I also think there is more room to work with the upper seats off and not sure how much spray there will be when disconnecting some of the lines which may be pressured for sure, so the leather won’t get sprayed.

3) Complete the cuts from the factory perforation to perforation (carpet knife). I personally left the last two perforations uncut and will just fold back during the filter replacement. Then per factory, double sided tape to put back (I may put Velcro thought).

4) Ok at this point you see the silver cap that will give you access to the filter. (4) 10mm bolts. Not sure if they have loctite on them as well (will update when I pass this stage). BUT stop here!!! Remove Key from ignition, disconnect the battery and drain the fuel tank, and leave the filler flap open. Prepare a fan outside of the car point into the car (not to close) and if you have a HD Respirator Mask, grab that too . Please do not do this IN the garage.

5) I am stopping here as i am waiting on the Fuel filter, sealing ring. And now I found out I need a specialty tool to release and later tighten the fuel filter, 104 ft-lb of torque. Hey Carl how did you go about doing this? Not a screw driver and hammer right?

CDH-CTT

madburg,
Great Job looking for the pics.... mine were on my camera that unfortuantly is at the bottom of a lake right now...
BTW I did NOT use the VW tool to take of the steel ring that hold the filter down to the tank. It has little lines i just marked where they meet and refit it to that spot. A flat headed screw driver and a good size hammer makes it easy to spin the ring OFF anf put it ON after...

Carl

madburg

I had a feeling you used a screw driver and hammer .

OK, I received the filter and sealing ring, finally. I re-read the Workbook once more. I have one more question Carl. How did you go about disconnecting the fuel supply to pressure regulator line that comes pre-attached to the new fuel filter. I can see it is more than long enought to route to the passenger side regulator. And we are all under the impression that second passenger side cap was not required to be removed (Workbook was confusing but now that I have the replacement parts and re-read, they want you to open both). So my question is did you disconnect the (new) line that came with the filter and attached the old (from the old filter), or with your hand reached in and disconnected and reconnected (chance of loosing the line, High/low?) or some other trick? Pictures below of the line in question.

CDH-CTT

madburg,

How did you know ??? hahaha

Ok well I remember that I think I tried to do it all from one side but I couldnt get the line unclipped at the "connector".... so I pulled OFF the other side to get to the "connector" easier.... I reused the old o-ring as well... just needed to get it a lil tigher putting it back on.. Make sure all the lines make the "click" and then try to pull them apart. I didnt check them on mine an I had to remove it all again to find the fitting that came unclipped....After you get everything back together turn the key ON/OFF a couple of times to prime the system easier then just starting it. If you just start it you "might" get a CEL for low fuel pressure or misfires...Good luck

Carl

madburg

Thanks for all the info Carl, i dont want to mess around so i will remove both caps and do it once as the WB states the same. I will update instructions and additional pic's when done.

CDH-CTT

Hey no prob ... glad to help

Carl

s4for5

So it looks like you need to fish that attached line inside the tank to the other side?
Should be interesting, glad your doing it first.
Looking forward to the pics.

madburg

Sorry, had no time to post an update.

The specialty tool was on back order (over a month), finally got one (requires 1/2" drive torque wrench).

I ran the car down to low fuel, and the fumes were not too bad (did not need to wear a mask that I had). I did run the fan which I believe did help. I stopped taking pictures after the filter came out. Not worth a spark (not a gambling man )

Quite easy from here. But you will!!! have to remove the fuel regulator, same exact way and same tool, on the opposite side (passenger side). As one line gets disconnected from the bottom of the regulator that runs to the fuel filter (side).

Now back to the Fuel filter, take your time and each quick disconnect is sized differently so no worries on putting the wrong line on later just disconnect. You will notice one line is not a disconnect on the filter side and runs to the other side of the car that you just discoonected before. Put the new filter in, run the line with your hand to the regular side. Fish for it on the passenger side. Connect to regulator, but do make sure you have/hear a click and give a good pull to test its secure. You can put back the regulator with the tool (torque spec in my ealier post).

Back to the fuel filter side re-connect each line and check they are secure, re-install again with the tool (torque spec in my ealier post). Put back the Aluminum cover (10mm screw), reconnect battery, prime with the key (on/off/on/off) I personally did not hear it prime and she fired right up. Test drive. All done

Personal thoughts, more prep work (removing seats, etc..) that the actually filter replacement.

madburg

BTW, If anyone on the forum here ever wants to rent the tool from me let me know.
It is a T10202, I would do something like $15 + shipping & deposit (additonal $15 to be returned), you can hold on to it for two weeks and then ship back to me, and I refund the deposit.

Clutch-n-Throttle

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I really thought this will help with anyone trying to do this in the future

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Fixing+...Gas+Leak/11326

BlazinPond

great link/read.....thanks for posting.

scottl951

This is perfect. Thanks. I have to trouble shoot a fuel level sensor issue. At least I can have some confidence getting in there now.

BOOSTD

Thanks for linking this. I just did this DIY yesterday and the instructions helped me out a lot!