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How easy is it to change the oil in the Cayenne?

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Old 10-03-2004, 01:11 PM
  #16  
Jeffrey Behr
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Gee wiz, philg3, when you you lifted my oil-change narrative you could have given me credit for it! :-)

I'm back to 9 quarts. If you use 1 drain pan, make sure it has plenty of capacity for the 9 quarts. Having spare drain-plug gaskets is a good idea; I've lost one but fortunately that plug doesn't leak. I change mine twice a year; that's about every 9 - 10,000 miles. That works well for me because I like to use a slightly thicker oil in our very-hot summers than in our nonsummers (in Phoenix; it's never winter in Phoenix; we just get 7 months of nonhot weather per year).

BTW my 20,000-mile service cost me $200 at N. Scottsdale Porsche. They didn't do much and it took only 1-1/2 hours.
Old 10-03-2004, 02:41 PM
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philg3
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[QUOTE=Jeffrey Behr]Gee wiz, philg3, when you you lifted my oil-change narrative you could have given me credit for it! :-)

Jeff, it was a wonderful post, and as I mentioned, I lifted it from a board long ago for my reference. I didn't know what board I lifted it from, the date, or the author. It's as simple as someone asked the question, I had the answer saved in a word file, and I thought it would be helpful to others.
Old 10-03-2004, 03:52 PM
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PTEC
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Originally Posted by Jeffrey Behr
That works well for me because I like to use a slightly thicker oil in our very-hot summers than in our nonsummers (in Phoenix; it's never winter in Phoenix; we just get 7 months of nonhot weather per year).
What weight oil are you using for summer?
Old 10-03-2004, 04:24 PM
  #19  
Jeffrey Behr
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It gets HOT in Phoenix's summers; I've seen air temps of over 120dF above roadways. We're lucky if the air temp gets DOWN to 85dF by 5am.

I use 10W-40 in the summer and 5W-40 in the nonsummer, all fully synthetic Red Line. The 10W-40 uses NO VI improvers, the 5W a small amount and less than almost any dead-dino multiviscosity oil. (VI improvers are NOT good lubricants; all they do is thicken as the oil heats, thereby reducing the oil's thinning as it heats.)
Old 10-05-2004, 09:39 PM
  #20  
BenLee
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Thanks for all the posts.

I just changed the oil this afternoon. Couldn't resist taking a break from work and just getting it done.

Pros
Filter is directly underneath the front of the car like my Audi S4 and 996
Same with the oil plug
If you already have all the tools for changing oil in your 996, it's all the same(not sure about 993 and before)
No need to raise a truck!
Oil cap for putting new oil in is in a convenient location

Cons
Oil comes out fast. My oil pan almost filled over because it couldn't keep up with the incoming oil
PAIN to remove the underside panel - not hard, just alot of screws to turn while lying upside down
Old 10-05-2004, 10:23 PM
  #21  
Jeffrey Behr
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Originally Posted by BenLee
PAIN to remove the underside panel - not hard, just a lot of screws to turn while lying upside down
Yup; that's why I use a drill/driver.
Old 10-11-2004, 05:51 PM
  #22  
philg3
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Just changed the oil / filter, and I can certainly attest to the fact that you earn the money that you save by doing it yourself. It was labor intensive, but the next time I could probably do it much faster. Some observations:

1) I have air suspension, so I set the height on terrain level and crawled underneath; was able to use a creeper in the front, but not on the sides (behind the front wheels) to remove the rear panel.

2) Using a 10mm driver (with a screwdriver type handle) helped a lot.

3) Need to be real careful to identify the proper drain plugs -- first one is obvious and is about 10 inches behind the oil filter, the second is up high about 10 inches behind the first one. There is a drain plug in the vicinity of the first one -- about the same level behind it, but it looks like a drain for the transfer case for the front axel.

4) No need to remove the rear bolts from the rear panel because if you do it right, the panel will slide off the two metal brackets on the rear. If you remove them, as I did, the brackets fall off, and it might take you a while to figure how it goes back on.

5) I recommend removing the oil filler cap prior to draining because otherwise the oil gushes out intermittently, pausing to get air.

6) I bought one of those "B" oil filter removal tools from Autozone, but it didn't seem to work well, so I used a strap tool -- there was enough clearance.

7) Mine took a full 9 quarts, which is what is called for in the optional "Service Information Technik" book. Initially, I put in 7 quarts, then started the engine to fill the filter, the rear sump, turned engine off, then added 2 more quarts while checking the level along the way.
Old 10-11-2004, 07:38 PM
  #23  
1988carrera
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Originally Posted by philg3
3) Need to be real careful to identify the proper drain plugs -- first one is obvious and is about 10 inches behind the oil filter, the second is up high about 10 inches behind the first one. There is a drain plug in the vicinity of the first one -- about the same level behind it, but it looks like a drain for the transfer case for the front axel.
Hi Phil, Thanks for the detailed post....I would very much like to try, but the above caution makes me nervous.....not to drain the wrong fluid!!!

I wish someone would post some pics of the bottom when the truck is on a lift to point out the drains and also how and where to remove the under tray/pan..etc.,
Old 09-07-2007, 05:25 PM
  #24  
bradster
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I should have read the 2nd page of this thread before changing the oil. I mistakenly removed the wrong plug and drained out some of the differential/transfer case oil. Anyone know how to refill this?

Edit: I found the fill plug, on the front of the case. Had to grind down my allen key to make it fit into the small space but it's not a big deal to access. Just need to get a pump to fill w/ gear oil. BTW, the transfer case is cast with the VW logo so if anyone ever needs to replace this, you can probably replace w/ a Treg part.

Last edited by bradster; 09-07-2007 at 08:05 PM.
Old 09-09-2007, 10:15 PM
  #25  
yetis
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Originally Posted by bradster
I should have read the 2nd page of this thread before changing the oil. I mistakenly removed the wrong plug and drained out some of the differential/transfer case oil. Anyone know how to refill this?

Edit: I found the fill plug, on the front of the case. Had to grind down my allen key to make it fit into the small space but it's not a big deal to access. Just need to get a pump to fill w/ gear oil. BTW, the transfer case is cast with the VW logo so if anyone ever needs to replace this, you can probably replace w/ a Treg part.
hmm, I am pretty sure this is a factory sealed unit. That is, you never hear of dealers changing or topping off transmission fluid. I don't even know if you can buy the transmission fluid for a Cayenne.
Old 09-10-2007, 12:07 PM
  #26  
C4SJOHN
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Do we have pictures with arrows showing what to look for? The next one of you go dive down under your Cayenne please take a few shots ( pictures ) of the drain plugs so we can all see that it looks like. Then we can all dive under the pepper and understand what we are looking for....Thanks
Old 09-10-2007, 03:33 PM
  #27  
racer_65
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Yeah, I agree we need someone to do us a big favor to take pictures with some arrows pointing. Then, a writer-type to summarize the step-by-step. It'd be a big benefit to all of us for years to come!
Old 09-11-2007, 12:44 AM
  #28  
MadFox
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Originally Posted by racer_65
Yeah, I agree we need someone to do us a big favor to take pictures with some arrows pointing. Then, a writer-type to summarize the step-by-step. It'd be a big benefit to all of us for years to come!
Preferred method for oil change by Madfox "for years to come".....

Step by step instructions.. please read carefully..

1. Take key place in ignition.. step on brake pedal.. turn key clockwise.
2. Engine started? If so, enter Dealer address in Nav.
3. Engine didn't start? Repeat step 1.
4. Drive vehicle to Dealer with reasonable charge for oil change.
5. Pick-up loaner vehicle from decent dealer who provides even for regular maint.
6. Drive to work/home
7. Drive back to dealer after receiving phone call saying your vehicle is ready
8. Open hood and look around at engine.. say "hmmm.... okay... good.."
9. Pay bill and drive home/work.

-----------> Picture of dealership with arrow pointing to service dept. entrance

-----------> Picture of Porsche Svc. Tech under my vehicle.

-----------> Picture of clean hands of owner/driver of vehicle

-----------> Picture of smiling owner/driver

p.s. Permission to put this in sticky thread --- approved.
Old 09-11-2007, 08:45 AM
  #29  
yetis
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Originally Posted by MadFox
Preferred method for oil change by Madfox "for years to come".....

Step by step instructions.. please read carefully..

1. Take key place in ignition.. step on brake pedal.. turn key clockwise.
2. Engine started? If so, enter Dealer address in Nav.
3. Engine didn't start? Repeat step 1.
4. Drive vehicle to Dealer with reasonable charge for oil change.
5. Pick-up loaner vehicle from decent dealer who provides even for regular maint.
6. Drive to work/home
7. Drive back to dealer after receiving phone call saying your vehicle is ready
8. Open hood and look around at engine.. say "hmmm.... okay... good.."
9. Pay bill and drive home/work.

-----------> Picture of dealership with arrow pointing to service dept. entrance

-----------> Picture of Porsche Svc. Tech under my vehicle.

-----------> Picture of clean hands of owner/driver of vehicle

-----------> Picture of smiling owner/driver

p.s. Permission to put this in sticky thread --- approved.
100% agree. I did it once, and never again!
Old 09-11-2007, 03:21 PM
  #30  
racer_65
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For me personally, it's kind of sacrilige not to change one's own oil. At the very minimun, need to know how to do it. I came from British cars that require a lot more work; I guess old habits are hard to break!


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