19psi

Sort of musing over this...
Installed a new Curt hitch today on my '04 S. I knew the original bumper was aluminum but assumed it would be solid.
When I removed that last bolt, I was expecting serious heft...I couldn't believe I pulled it off with one hand and set it aside! Hollow and probably weighs 10 lbs at best. The Curt is a beast in comparison.

Can those things really take any kind of impact without the other vehicle crushing the hatch? I guess as long as it passes the 2.5 mph test, it's good from a legal standpoint. I'm definitely feeling better about having the new hitch back there.

Dilberto

I regret the PO ever installing the Curt Class III hitch, on my 2006 Turbo: No rear towing eye support, no tow package electronics, no increased capacity. Now, this hitch is relegated as a cargo tray and bicycle rack carrier. I had to buy a 2" hitch receiver shackle kit.... in case I ever need to be towed out of mud. Well, at least the Stage 2 tuned engine will thank me....

19psi

Not sure why you feel yours is only useful for a carrier?

I can attach just about any size trailer to it and haul a riding mower, ATVs, motorcycles, etc. I can easily pull a small or medium travel trailer.
It can handle 6,000 lbs which is 1,000 more than my previous Bravada with factory tow package and 1,000 more than my friends brand new $50K Explorer.
Entire setup with a standard harness light converter is about $150 (used eBay's 20% off day).
I'm guessing Porsche will charge $150 to just program in their "controller". Used factory hitches average around $500 (hope they include the hardware) and then add a few hundred more for the electronics.
I'll skip the next to useless eye bolt holes and the additional 1700 lbs which I'll never make use of and gladly save the $800 to $1,000 over used OEM.
If I get stuck, I'll use the hitch itself as I have on other vehicles in the past.
As far as shift points...don't care about that either...if in mountains, pulling the maximum 6,000 lbs and I feel like it's lugging, I'll put the trans into manual mode and shift myself.
Simply put, the Curt will go above and beyond doing everything I need. If I needed to pull a car trailer with a large SUV on it or a yacht, I'd go for the OEM.

What's keeping you from putting in a factory setup? Nothing was permanently modified, so it's just a matter of removing what you have. I believe the fascia will require a bit more trimming to the left and that's it.

deilenberger

Vehicles are designed to pass crash tests, and prevent injuries to the occupants. I suspect also in this case - getting hit in the back with the Curt hitch is going to cause damage to the mounting points for the hitch. In the case of the factory aluminum one - the bumper may just deform and prevent damaging the mounting points. Guess which one will be less expensive to fix..

19psi

I've thought about energy absorption, especially since there are no bumper shocks or spring steel under there to absorb an impact. The factory hitch is beefier yet, so the extra strength is unavoidable if you want a hitch. I was just amazed at how thin walled and light it is. I do have to say, I examined it more closely today in the sunlight and there is internal X bracing further in towards the center, so that makes much more sense.