Post brake change feeling
#1
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Thread Starter
Post brake change feeling
So I just got my CTT back from having the front pads, rotors, and sensors done. The braking sensation seems significantly worse than before, like the stopping power is worse (though I don't actually think it is). I made sure the front and rear brakes are actually working (both rotors were hot), and I've heard anecdotes about having to use the brakes for some time before the pads/rotors go back to normal. Is that actually true?
As as an FYI, I paid $550 with parts and taxes for everything, which seems somewhat reasonable.
As as an FYI, I paid $550 with parts and taxes for everything, which seems somewhat reasonable.
#4
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Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
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They need bedding in. The way I usually do it is to find a deserted highway (not so easy actually) - take the truck up to around 70MPH, then apply brakes bringing it down to about 30MPH. Then go back up to speed - drive for a bit - and repeat as necessary. You should feel the brakes becoming more powerful within 4-6 cycles. They will continue to feel better with miles - usually 100 miles of regular driving is enough to break them in.
And as nodoors asked - what pads? Different pads have different coefficients of friction.
And as nodoors asked - what pads? Different pads have different coefficients of friction.
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think 350mm is correct for the older models, except for the Turbo S that uses 380mm in the front and 350mm in the rear. The PCCB option is 410mm up front.
#7
They need bedding in. The way I usually do it is to find a deserted highway (not so easy actually) - take the truck up to around 70MPH, then apply brakes bringing it down to about 30MPH. Then go back up to speed - drive for a bit - and repeat as necessary. You should feel the brakes becoming more powerful within 4-6 cycles. They will continue to feel better with miles - usually 100 miles of regular driving is enough to break them in.
And as nodoors asked - what pads? Different pads have different coefficients of friction.
And as nodoors asked - what pads? Different pads have different coefficients of friction.
If that doesn't work then you might have an issue with pad compound. But definitely try re-bedding first.
Best
Julian
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#8
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Thread Starter
Awesome, thanks guys. Will do.
Re: the rotors, I have the red calipers on a 2006, which I believe makes them the 350mm (I.e. Correct size) rotors. I made sure the guy doing the work measured to confirm though - there was a brake thread on here about a guy in a Turbo S who somehow had the smaller rotors (350's) than he should have.
Re: the rotors, I have the red calipers on a 2006, which I believe makes them the 350mm (I.e. Correct size) rotors. I made sure the guy doing the work measured to confirm though - there was a brake thread on here about a guy in a Turbo S who somehow had the smaller rotors (350's) than he should have.
#9
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Thread Starter
Bedded today and works like a charm. Did several de-sprints from 45-0 to warm up the pads, then hopped on a Main Street to do 60-15mph several times. Brake feel is back to original and so is stopping distance/power.
Out of curiosity, would you expect a shop to "pre-bed" before delivering back to you?
Out of curiosity, would you expect a shop to "pre-bed" before delivering back to you?
#10
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Bedded today and works like a charm. Did several de-sprints from 45-0 to warm up the pads, then hopped on a Main Street to do 60-15mph several times. Brake feel is back to original and so is stopping distance/power.
Out of curiosity, would you expect a shop to "pre-bed" before delivering back to you?
Out of curiosity, would you expect a shop to "pre-bed" before delivering back to you?
I wonder if your shop cleaned the rotors before installing them. Most rotors come with a thin film of a light oil on them to prevent rust so they look pretty when you get them. A shop should clean them carefully with brake-cleaner before assembly, but bet some don't bother. If that's the case, part of the bedding in was also burning off that oil and burning it out of the pads.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Always a good idea to drive it easily for 50 miles or so before the bed-in to burn off any oil film on the rotors and to get a slight settling of the pads. When you do a bed-in don't come to a stop as deilenberger said earlier 70-30, 60-20 are all good, firm but don't stand on them. Then try to drive it a little to cool the rotors for a couple of minutes before coming to a stop. Yes, Turbo had 350mm front and 330mm rear, Turbo S had 380mm front and 356mm rear.