Roc Doc

I bought this 1976 911S Targa in sad but running condition in 1992, and then when I felt the 2.7 was on it's last legs at 142,000 miles, (it was originally a Seattle car, so there were no thermal reactors), I decided to turn it into a mid-eighties "clone", by adding the fender flares, 3.2, and interior bits. I drove it like this for the next 12 years or so, and other than a few sets of tires, a starter and an alternator, it's been stone reliable. Now I want to kick up it's performance a few notches, and I don't want to go through the expense of the (mostly) futile HP hunt. So I'm going to add lightness, and make it handle better.

The engine is good, so I think I'll just add a Steve Wong chip, some new plug wires, and a better exhaust.

The transmission is the original 915, so it will need to be re-built at some point, but for now it's just fine. It has the factory LSD, but with that many miles the clutches aren't doing a whole lot.

Suspension is going to be a main focus, and I want some adjustability, so the Smart Racing Products reservoir shocks, adjustable sway bars, spring plates and struts seem to make sense, but I'm open to suggestions.

I plan to remove;

Windshield washer tank & plumbing.
Rear seats
Two audio amps and sub box, (the head unit will remain to power the door speakers).
Heater ducting, and blower.
Power lock solenoids.
Map door pockets.
Clock

I plan to replace;

8-way power seats, with lightweight buckets or recliners with heaters.
Front bumper, shocks, fog lights, air dam & rubber spoiler, and replace with Yellowbird type front end from Getty, or AJ USA, or Better Bodies.
Rear bumper, pads and shocks, with Yellowbird style rear.
Lead acid battery, with Odyssey 680 in smugglers box.
Stock heat exchangers and muffler, for headers & custom flowmaster exhaust.
Power flag style mirrors with 935 style fixed mirrors.
Stock brakes with Boxtster monoblock's F&R, (do I need to go to a vacuum boost MC?).

I plan to add;

A cage of some type to help siffen up my flexi chassis. (I already have a Weltmeister strut bar, but it needs some help.)
The fresh air ducting kit that replaces the clock.

Suggestions welcome, and here's a pic right after she got out of the paint shop in 1993, and a one of how she looks now. (Many more stone chips, and a nice crease in the drivers door from a parking lot devil).

Thanks,

Don

Bill Verburg

Looks like she lost her RoW headlights too. Soundsl ike you know what you want to do, it's mostly what I have done w/ mine.

my take
unless you are going to race(doesn't sound like it) I would just use Bilstein HD and maybe some adjustable sways(adjustment is expensive overkill for a street car)

Wheels and tires pay big dividends, 7 & 9 x16, 205/55 & 24545 minimum

a cage on a street car is overkill, learn to live w/ the flex and enjoy the sun/breeze

Roc Doc

Yeah, it had H1's when I got it, and they really didn't do a very good job, so I put in the Bobi's, (which I think I'll actually replace with some e-code Hella's, and a new headlight harness so that the power doesn't go through the switch)>

Some valved Bilsteins over the Fox shocks would save a bunch of money for sure. I know a shock engineer, but he's mostly an off-road guy, but I may consult him anyway.

It has 16x6 & 7's now, so I guess I'll have to pay through the nose to get some 9's, or maybe I can find someone that is going up a size for their race car. I used to run A008RS II's in the 205/225 variety, so I'm well aware what sticky tires can do for you. The AVS tires that are on it now have only about 5 or 6,000 miles on them, but they're going on 5 years old, and some fresh rubber would be nice.

Las Vegas is a hotbed of desert racing, so I know some really good fabricators that could make me a street friendly cage. I may still do it, depending on where my new seats place me.


Edit; I just read your homepage writeup on brakes...good info, thanks.
Thanks for the input.