3.6L - going for it.
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Carmichael, CA
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3.6L - going for it.
Well, after foolishly letting the local wrench rack up a few hours into the 2.7Ls top end, I decided to go ahead and do the 3.6L upgrade. I bought a fresh-rebuilt 3.6L engine this morning, and I am getting the conversion kit from Dr. Steve Timmins. I'm also getting the Zucs (sp) cone filter kit, Cyntex chip, Sachs power clutch, and a B&B exhaust. Then I'm going down to Costco and getting a truckload of Top Ramen, 'cause that's what I'll be eating for the next few months.
I'm kinda kicking myself 'cause I didn't have the testicular veracity to make the 3.6l decision right off; I was hoping for a cheap save by the local wrench, and I'm into him for about 15 hours of labor starting the teardown on the 2.7L - all of the valves are bent, and he'd talked me into a valve job on it.
Oh well, now I'll have one the faster 77's out there...
I'm kinda kicking myself 'cause I didn't have the testicular veracity to make the 3.6l decision right off; I was hoping for a cheap save by the local wrench, and I'm into him for about 15 hours of labor starting the teardown on the 2.7L - all of the valves are bent, and he'd talked me into a valve job on it.
Oh well, now I'll have one the faster 77's out there...
#2
Its not a total waste, the drivetrain had to come out anyway.
Bill Verburg
My Home Page My Pelican Gallery page My Porsche Owners Gallery Page
Bill Verburg
My Home Page My Pelican Gallery page My Porsche Owners Gallery Page
#3
You won't regret it. We made the switch many years ago when our 2.7 was rebuilt, installed, and towed 10 hrs; only to melt down in 20 minutes. Of course, the first day on the track with the 3.6, I shifted from 4th to 5th and got enough 1st to last a lifetime.
#4
Just took a look at your new engine. Nice and clean, since it was just rebuilt the valves were just adjusted, right? Now is the time to replace the AC bracket(and all the other Ac hardware), unless you are going to use it. Some people just saw off the upper part but the correct one part # 964.115.011.02 will give a more finished(nicer) look. Also don't forget to transfer(or buy a new one) the oil temperature sender from the old to the new engine. I left the new(3.6)oil pressure sender rather than tranfer the old one, the range of motion is doubled on the gauge ie 6 bar indicated is really 3 bar, I found that I like it that way better. Be sure to keep track of all of the exhaust/heater hardware and gaskets(especially the orange silicon rubber sleeves, thay are really expensive oem)they will be reused on the B&B headers. Any thing that can be done to reduce the height of the fi will aid the installation. I know most people say that the fan and oem air cleaner must go but that is not true, take a look at my installation.