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How do you like the Ohlins so far? Did you have to buy wheel spacers?
Cheers to your project as well !
As far as my 'review' of the Ohlins... let me start with a warning: spring time in Colorado is the snowiest time of the year... therefore i have had limited opportunities to street drive and only one 1/2 day lapping day for shake-down, and i have only set them to 10/20 'clicks' both F&R.
From my limited street driving i feel that the Ohlins are perfectly okay for a sporty street setup... i would say they are probably most similar to the 'sport' setting but have way way way better high-speed damping capabilities than OEM.
The caveat here is that it assumes you are using OEM mounts... i am not, and the resulting NVH from the spherical/monoball mounts that i have is quite a lot.
I didn't 'need' spacers for this setup, but i could see that other tire brands that are more oversized would make contact up front... it is very close.
I am, however, running 7mm spacers on both front and rear.
I did get the tarett drop links installed this past weekend, now the sway bar should have no pre-load... will be interesting to see how that affects things.
Also, have you ever tried to sit in the back seats of these cars... laughable.
I don't know anyone small enough or anyone foolish enough to allow their kids to rid in my back seats... so i am cleaning things up back there... removed the rear seat belts and seat backs. Small amount of weight loss, too. had to remove the whole side trim to gain access to the bolts for the belt reel all buttoned up... for now what came out
I've got a couple more things to do before this weekend.
Nice work! I just finished building a .2 C4 track/daily myself and it's definitely a quick car on track. On a sub 1:30 track with the quickest 991.2 gt3rs doing a 1:17, I was capable of pulling off a 1:22. So these cars definitely have the potential if setup right!!
Have you run in hot enough temps to gauge how well the Built deep sump lowers oil temp? BTW the one they sell for the 987.2 is a complete billet pan, not just a spacer.
Have you run in hot enough temps to gauge how well the Built deep sump lowers oil temp? BTW the one they sell for the 987.2 is a complete billet pan, not just a spacer.
Yea, i have been at several hot days at high elevation (Colorado and Utah), oil temp is high (to me, but i don't know these cars that well ... indicated just under 250*F) but stable ... that being said, i never ran on track before adding the deep sump, so a before/after comparison isn't available.
Water temps stay consistent throughout at 175*F.
This makes me think that the placement of the oil temp gauge may be on the return side, and the water temp gauge may be on the return side as well... so water returning from the radiators is much lower than the oil returning from the engine.
But with no oil cooler, i guess it is likely pretty even oil temp across the body of oil.
I am running a similar suspension setup, added new GT3 LCA to get more camber and front and rear GT3 bars. Ohlins are amazing on track 5 clicks from hard and soft on the street 17-25 clicks from hard.
I have the LN deep sump kit and ran the skid plate but found it too restrictive on airflow for cooling on hot days. I run Driven XP5 or XP9 which works great. I have run on track in 100F ambient temps and oil stayed at just under 250F.
Been way too long since i had an update here... got a bit distracted toward the later part of the season - bought an Airstream and toured around the country a bit - what fun.
The car has been a blast to drive in the mountains and on the track.
Like 'Epicben' stated, i may ditch the LN skidplate for the oil pan ... not decided yet ... to help with oil temps, but honestly, it runs a little hotter than i'd like, but stable, and i kinda like the idea of the added protection for a lowered car in the event of an off-track-excursion.
CSF upgraded front-and side rads is on my list, but not necessary as i am not racing... just TT'ing, so i can always back-down if i need to cool things.
Some upgrades coming in for the '22 season will be upgraded front brakes, new wheels and tire compounds, plus adding some lightness in the interior.
Started by nabbing a set of AP front discs from Essex.
These are 350's up from the C2S's 330's ... so a little caliper bracket extension is needed, but otherwise, bolt-on.
Weight should be about even with the up-sizing due to the lighter weight hats.
These are burnished and paired with a set of Ferodo DS3.12 pads. First time with this brand and this compound, but good things are said about them, so i want to give them a try - want a stronger initial bite than the PFC08's i had this season.
Really enjoying watching your progression with mods. I have a 997.1 C4 I track and I have done some similar mods on too, Ohlins, Elephant camber plates, solid bushings, etc. I have the deep sump and plate with a 3rd radiator and LTT, but still see ~240s stable on a hot day for oil temp. The one thing i will be doing to combat pressure drops in right turns is adding the UIDS when it comes out and ditching the 2qt deep sump. It looks to fix the pressure issues with the m96/97 engines: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ds-v2-2-a.html.
I was looking into swapping out my brakes, and was hopeful you could share your thoughts on doing fronts only? I'm really interested to see the results from the change.
The aero kit 997.1/.2's have my favorite looking rear wing.
I saw you had an issue with getting a hard pedal and I had the same problem until I learned this bleeding method from a long time Porsche tech. I use my motive power bleeder and pump up to ~20-25 psi. I crack open the furthest bleeder. I go to the brake pedal in the car, I pump the pedal VERY slowly and lightly about 1/2 way, and I also release the pedal slowly. I pump the pedal about 6-7 times PER bleed nipple. Do this with the pressure bleeder hooked up. This is the only way I've ever been able to get good results using a power bleeder and I used it on every car I do now with great results. I don't know if this is an issue you were experiencing but you mentioned some issues with brake pedal feel and this helps me and my customer's tremendously.
Thanks guys !
Appreciate the comments and thoughts on brakes and oil pressure/sump situation.
I have power bleeder and durametric... have tried both power bleeder and pedal bleeding concurrently, but probably not consistently 6-7 half-pumps, will try.
As far as front-only upgrade... i am new to Porsche/rear-engine, so we'll see, but fronts do most of the work in my experience in BMWs, just need to have a good balance/bias on brake bite/release torque to be predictable. The larger brake rotor and better internal fin/fan design is more about heat soak/capacity. Once the winter season is over, i'll be sure to share my thoughts.
Last edited by delirium45; 01-05-2022 at 07:09 PM.
Great thread. I’m enjoying since your car and mods are quite similar to what I’ve done / am doing now. I had oil temps higher than I liked (slightly over 250) while on hot track days.
I did get a center/third radiator and that helped, some. I switched from standard to Sport Mode (which I was avoiding to keep the throttle smoother), and that helped some more. Recently went to 71C thermo and that helped even more. Now I top out in the 235-240 range.
You know that the Porsche water temp gage is largely fake? It stops at 175 until you get to some high threshold level. I only learned this last year. Disappointed in Porsche for that and I’d love to find a real replacement.
You know that the Porsche water temp gage is largely fake? It stops at 175 until you get to some high threshold level. I only learned this last year. Disappointed in Porsche for that and I’d love to find a real replacement.
Yea, i learned this is pretty much true on any 'modern' (ie: electronic senders) gauges... i have taken the car out for some hot laps then hooked up to durametric to read the temps coming through the computer, and they're not that far off... but i was mostly watching oil temp.
I do have a low temp t-stat, haven't installed yet.
If you're looking to build your own gauge cluster, i've had good luck with VDO gauges and senders.
wow, been a long time since i reported back here.. probably fair since it has been a long time since i made much progress.
but now that we're already into track-season i am carving out a few weekends to get back on track.
most recent accomplishment was to pull the stock seats out... bye bye to 57.1lbs (driver) and 61.9lbs (passenger).
and replace them with Racetech buckets, a Brey Krause harness bar and a set of Schroth GT3 belts. RT1000 for passenger and RT4100 for driver pretty decent shape for 45k miles BK harness bar is all that i need, none of those heavy harness bars that only look like a half-cage but still attach to the front seatbelt bolts
with these changes, i'm looking at about 39lbs of weight out, but a huge improvement in driving position, feedback and safety.
I also swapped out the OEM sport steering wheel for an OMP Velocita 380.
I'm still waiting on my passenger seatbelt, so for now, i'll run without a passenger seat for added weight loss.
This week/end i'll be installing the AP front brakes, and doing fluid changes (motor oil, brake fluid and trans fluid)... but i also got my hands on a fresh set of VS-5RS's
18 x 9 & 12 same size as my SM-10's from last year. Will be pairing them with some 255 and 335 R7's.
It will be interesting to see if i can notice any difference due to the ~2lbs per wheel less weight of these new VS-5RS's... they sure do look nice.
AP brake rotors installed, easy peasy ... as well as a set of rennline front and rear tie-down points, since the car is going in a trailer for this weekend's track outing.
Plus a bunch of fatty meats got mounted up on my two sets of Apex's ... SM-10s and the new VS-5RS's ... 255 and 335 respectively.
Test fitting was pretty easy going... 7mm spacer in the front to clear the springs and nothing in the rear. Everything fit during static-testing and spinning the wheel while car was jacked up. I didn't do any drive testing though.
The only thing that totally sucks right now is that this weekend has a pretty wide rain/snow forecast
Even though it is mid-80's as i write this.
04-21-2021, 12:29 PM
