nwGTS

Category: Engine - Electrical
Price (no $ sign please): $390
Private or Vendor Listing: Vendor Listing
Part fits (select ONLY those which apply): 986, 987, 996, 997, Cayman
Location (Region): Midwestern
Item Condition: Brand New

it's an if->then and the process only starts once the clutch is in.
IF the clutch is in THEN the system reads the state of the brake pedal.
if brake off? then no blip
if brake on? then blip

Jett911

If I depress the clutch, then the brake (while clutch is in) I do not get a blip. If I press brake in, then clutch (while brake still depressed) I get a blip. Sounds like that may not be the case for everyone?

nwGTS

If that's the case then Andres isn't explaining this very well.
What you experience would be ideal for the purposes of an auto-blipper since that is the sequence used on track when braking and downshifting. It can go either way on the street.

cstyles

Completed the installation this morning. Very easy, and it would take 15 minutes if it wasn't for the fact that you're lying on your back in the foot well with very little space for your arms. The instructions from their website for 2005+ Porsche are perfect.

As noted here already, the instructions give you the option to connect the clutch sensor wire to the bottom clutch sensor or the top clutch sensor (top sensor gives you ability for a 'quicker' blip reaction time when depressing the clutch pedal). I went with the top switch connection.

Can confirm, clutch in first then hit the break = no blip. Brake in first, then clutch in = blip.

Haven't driven on the street yet but plan to later tonight to get the settings dialed in. Then July 16th, 21st and 22nd at Mosport to really test it out

pfbz

Did you go for constant hot or switched hot, per the discussion above?

I have mine on order, I'm leaning towards switched hot as it at least would be consistent, always firing up with auto-blip ON rather than:

• ON if the switch was left on and less than 8 hours since last power cycle.
• OFF if the switch was left on and more than 8 hours since last power cycle.
• OFF if the switch was left off regardless of time since last power cycle.

Also, is the power button a positional switch, or just a momentary button? For example, if the car starts in mode 2, OFF, but the car was shut down with it ON, is it a double press of the button to turn the blip back on (turn it off, then back on) or a single press of a momentary button (always toggles the state regardless of where it last was)?

Sorry, I'm sure it will be obvious once I have it installed...

matt33

nwGTS

Great! I hope to have mine in tomorrow night but it's supposed to be a scorcher here. Track day this Wednesday so really want it in before then. Going to go with switched power.
Cant wait!

Jett911

I was happy to discover that, it allows one to keep it turned on for street driving and have control over when/if it blips the throttle.

cstyles

I used the constant 12V power from the top clutch switch, exactly as per the instructions from Tractive. Turn car off, it goes off. Turn car on, it comes on. Very straight forward. Power is a single button. One push off, one push on. Again, pretty basic.

So I just got back from a 1.5 hour round trip drive to my in laws, and in summary: as I expected would be the case, this is a track toy and isn't very usable on the street for regular driving. To be fair to Tractive, the whole point of this tool is for track driving (and the manual clearly states this is for off road and track application only) so it shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone that it isn't very useful for street driving.

First off, the good: it works exactly as intended when at highway speeds and above. I ended up getting the settings dialed in to ~2 o'clock on the duration dial, 1 o'clock on the delay dial. I used the top clutch switch for the clutch signal so the reaction time is too quick, and needs to be offset with the delay dial. These settings worked very nicely for high RPM downshifts 5th to 4th, 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd coming off the highway. I am 100% positive that this is going to work very well at the track where you're running hot all the time.

For the street? I wouldn't recommend this to anyone that isn't tracking their car. The reasons why:

• Anytime you're approaching a stop (on the brake obviously) and you engage the clutch before coming to a dead stop, autoblip goes full song. By design, there's no way around this - if you have the brake engaged first, then engage the clutch, it's going to blip the throttle (edit: you can re-train your brain to engage the clutch first before the brake when driving at slow speed)
• The duration and delay settings that are suitable for track speeds and downshifting at high rpm are not suitable for downshifts at normal street speed and street rpm. At slower speeds, the autoblip is opening the throttle with the same settings you're using at track speed / track rpm. It's not something you just learn to get used to, it simply isn't suitable for regular driving - it's like a completely misjudged throttle blip

Fully integrated OE systems like from Porsche are using sensors in the gear lever position, not just in the clutch engagement. The OE system downshifts as you select a lower gear, not as you depress the clutch. Also, OE systems have the exact ratios between gears & rpms factored in, which means the blips are perfect between every gear at any speed. With a stand alone system such as the Autoblip, you're getting the same 'blip' all the time, regardless of which gear you're in and where your RPM's are. It's not nearly as smooth as an OE system nor should anyone expect it to be. The good news is that unlike the OE system, you can turn this off any time you like.

So in summary, if you're looking for a system that functions like the latest and greatest Porsche integrated autoblip system, this isn't it (and again to be fair to the manufacturer, it's not supposed to be). As a track tool, I think this is going to work exactly as intended and will be money well spent. I will report back after next track day July 16th with my feedback + onboard video.

bml376

I tried this out on the track yesterday and it worked well.

I can confirm:

1. Clutch in (first) + brake (second) == No blip
2. Brake (first) + clutch (second) == blip
3. Brake (first) + clutch (second) + initial start of car/engine == No blip

Personally, I prefer the behavior of #1 because it allows control over the blip when driving on the street. On the track, #2 would be the main use case.

Here is a video from the track where you can see the blip and hear it when downshifting.


I need to find a new place for my microphone and also something happened with the sound halfway through the video.

Dguth

For street driving, and the way I have mine calibrated, mine will not blip unless I fully depress the clutch "all" the way in. As you know you can shift naturally without pushing the clutch all the way in as clutch point is traditionally higher up on the pedal with the 997s. This is ideal in my opinion as I have more control as to when I want the blip to activate. I think through the calibration of how far you press in the clutch pedal can determine when the blip will activate. For example when coming to a stop, I don't fully press in the clutch, just half way to go into neutral. However when going into a turn, I will hit brake, then quickly fully depress clutch to initiate blip and downshift. Best of both worlds in my opinion.

cstyles

Is this just a result of the fact you used the lower clutch switch wire instead of the upper clutch switch like I have? Or have you actually calibrated your unit differently from the published instructions? I am going to add a T tap onto the lower clutch switch and switch to that to see how it compares. Will only take 30 seconds to switch between which clutch signal the autoblip is using after that.

Dguth

That's a great question that I'm not sure the answer of. I have mine attached to the lower part of the clutch wire. I also know when I calibrated mine that I pressed the clutch all the way to the floor. I also know that my blip will not occur unless I fully depress clutch all the way in. Partial or halfway clutch in does not instigate the blip.

cstyles

It must be a result of the clutch wire you're using (lower switch). I followed the same calibration instructions / process. Cheers

Code

Sorry, I should have been more clear in my original post. My car is the 7spd manual trans. 991.1 gen. It was an early 2012 build date, so it did not get the auto rev match feature that was added to all new builds at the very end of 2012 and beyond. If someone can confirm this will work in the 991.1 gen with the 7 speed manual trans I would appreciate it.