siberian

x2 as a backup if my T6 packs up. Would not use otherwise

siberian

orca15

Simple. I’m not aware of any option in this price range. Why don’t you give some options instead of just questioning my judgment? I’m certainly no expert but come here for help.

GT3dailydriver

This is the newer version VCI clone that looks like the ACTIA model used by Porsche dealers.

orca15

Thanks, but since I’ll probably only ever use this to reset my oil light I’ll probably stick with the $68 one

Good info for others, though. Thanks!!

scottmcdaniel

Hi all. So I got my PIWIS 3, and everything seems to work as intended. I’ve been reading through the thread and just want to make sure I understand some things correctly before I dig in.

• Unless PIWIS says to start the ignition, it should be used with the key to the right (all lights, etc. on), correct?
• In the event I intend to make any code changes, I need to have the car battery attached to an external power source to maintain appropriate voltage.
  • I do not have a garage, so I can’t have one that plugs into the wall and is always on, so it will have to be like a Jackery type. Is that ok?
  • Is it ok to use the rear battery instead of keeping the hood up and connected to posts?
• Is it ever ok to code little things like door opening/comfort settings with the engine running or without the external voltage?
• What is the absolute first thing I need to do, as in ‘making a backup’ of my car. Is the VAL detailed enough?
  • Ideally I’d like to export a config file I could then import if I screw things up badly but I don’t think that’s an option. Looks like saving a text file with the values one is changing is the only way.
  • Is there anyway to automate that, like a macro that says ‘if I execute, save with a timestamp and the module’?

Thanks in advance. Some of my intended changes to my 2012 970 are:

• re-pair a key that was lost for a long time; the fob buttons don’t work, however the transponder does and will start the car
• Modify DRL settings and options
• set entry and comfort options

siberian

Correct, turn your headlights OFF, do not start the car.

Given varied power drain it's a good idea to ALWAYS have your car connected to an EXTERNAL power source.

Don't know what a jackery is, but yes you can connect to the battery directly if that's your only option. HOWEVER connect your Negative to the body not to the negative of the battery.

Unless told to do so, DO NOT code with engine running (unless you're doing a ODB VAL of course)

A VAL is the definitive list of what your car was configured as. You can export or spool a file (takes quite a long time to do so) and you can AutoCode back to original values all modules if needed.

I would also note down all changes before you write or make any permanent ones.

GL

siberian

scottmcdaniel

Something like this. I kind of want one anyway, as I want to take some road trips and camp out a bit. https://amzn.to/3MfK6Pu

siberian

Nope definitely not. You need 75A to 100A with adequate cables (like jumper cables). Plenty of write ups on this on the various forums.

siberian

sac02

For a frame of reference:

The 12v lead acid battery in the car has a capacity of about 100Amp-hours (Ah). This is at nominal 12v. In very general terms, this means that the battery can provide 25A for 4 hours, or 50A for 2 hours, or 100A for 1hour before it goes flat.

The Jackery listed above is 293 WATT hours. At 12V, this equates to 24Amp Hours. Round this down to 20Ah due to losses in circuitry/voltage conversion.

This means that the Jackery could add 20% life to your car's battery during a coding session, looking only at energy capacity.

You will also notice that the Jackery 12v plug is limited to 10A. If your vehicle is using 50A during coding, the 10A supply rate of the Jackery will not replenish the car's battery at the same rate it is being depleted.

ON THE OTHER HAND, larger units such as


could supply enough current and capacity to code for several hours. (3600Wh, estimate 5hrs at 12v and 50A with 83% efficiency)

Again, all of this is in general, don't nit-pick me on the exact numbers. the concept is correct.

siberian

You need a something like PowerMax not a jackery battery charger/maintainer.

The one you reference above is overkill, we're not providing power to a house during blackouts and btw it's not available at the moment. Plenty of discussion on appropriate external power sources when using or coding whether with PIWIS or other.

siberian

LoodorneGT4

I'm only doing an activation code in the coming week. Do I need to connect the battery to the power supply? It takes just a few seconds of work, and I'm done.
Sorry if this is a very basic question, but it's my first time using PIWIS and I don't want any connection errors. If the battery is not connected to a power charger.

siberian

You mention you don't want connection errors? I think you've answered your own question.

siberian

edsonreds

Year ago I enabled the TPA app for my car… it took more than 15min to just change 4 parameters… battery went low even with a trickle charger always connected. Managed to get a “programming error” in the gateway that nothing clears…

So, I would strongly suggest an external power supply. I would never program/code or diagnose my car again without one.

LoodorneGT4

Thank you so much for commenting. I'm right on it before coding. Is there any power supply you would recommend for occasional coding and such?

edsonreds

I made my own power supply following these instructions:
Cool side project, not for everyone.