Jgarvish

I have thoroughly enjoyed all of the interactions with everyone on this board but I think it's time to say goodbye to my beloved GT4. Hopefully it will find a good home and selling it will eventually enable me to get another Porsche GT car.

https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...l#post14206020

jslee225

Say it ain't so! Hope to see you in another pcar soon at Cota!

ML///

Seems like quite a few keep going up for sale.

RNGRJAG

Probably because entering track season, values remain strong and folks realize they can get out of the car with several thousand miles and lots of track days with no depreciation? Just a guess.

stout

It does seem like it, but asofine's (very useful and interesting) spreadsheet on available GT4s shows 32 cars for sale right now. Per the GT4 database, that looks like about 1.3% of North American cars are for sale. Even if you double or triple that number, still pretty tiny.

Jgarvish

I couldn't have been happier with my GT4 and for those that know me they know that I've taken fantastic care of it. I'm just ready for another adventure... maybe a GT2RS!

Jgarvish

Jslee225: I'm not going anywhere! I still have lots of tricks to learn from you my friend.

noro78

Question for you: your ad mentioned camber plates, as I understand the way to change comber on these cars is using shims for the control arms. Why did you go down the camber plate route?

Nice car, if this was a year from now I would be a viable buyer

Klepper

Check out this link regarding options for adding front camber:

https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/9779...de-height.html

After talking with Ira at Tarett, I went the camber plate route too. With the strut tower adjustment slots at max and the camber plates installed, I got to -2.7 degrees. I went for camber plates for the following reasons:

• My main concern was tire wear, so I was not worried about increasing track width (a benefit of using shims)
• Using shims, I was worried about thread engagement on the front tie rod ends as well as the effect on caster of the lengthened control arms. The Tarett camber plates correct for caster, and alleviated my concern on the thread engagement
• Cost - the shim kit, thrust arm busings (to correct caster), and tie rod ends (for thread engagement) were going to run me around $950. The camber plates were less than 1/2 of that at $450.
• Ease of install - I do all my own work, so ease of install was important to me. The camber plates are super easy to install. It literally took me 30 min to do the first side, and 10 min to do the second side. Re-aligning to get back to zero toe took the longest!

Most people go the shim route, and I know you don't need to adjust caster or necessarily worry about thread engagement, but for me I like the camber plate route better. My $0.02

noro78

^ thanks for that input. Do you know if I am looking to only add .5 of negative camber, would I be able to get away with just shims and adjusting the rod ends without needing to get new longer ones or any other pieces?

Jgarvish

You should be able to get 0.5 degrees of camber with either.

I agree with Klepper and I couldn't have said it any better.

That said, the way I understood things (albeit substantially simplified) is that the camber plates pull in the top and the shims push out the bottom. Since I wanted to be able to run 295/265 tires I did camber plates but also got the thrust arm bushings to be able to dial in/out whatever amount of castor I wanted. Car is great and I would do it exactly the same way if I had to do it again.

Jgarvish

Here is a thread describing all of the bits on my car:

https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/9158...-r7-tires.html

Jgarvish

Bump

ExMB

That depends on what you want to accomplish and what your starting out camber value is. Are you talking F&R?

Jgarvish