CCW TS12 Wheels for GT4
#16
Your's are at one offset and mine are another. You sounded like that is what Forgeline does automatically and did not acknowledge that they do custom offsets as admitted by your answer post and your BGB reference.
Last edited by ExMB; 04-02-2017 at 07:43 PM.
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hey Bill, there is a thread on the GT3RS forum about R7's in 235 vs 265 width, saying there is only a minimum difference in tread width (9.25 vs 9.6 inches)
do you think there is much of a difference in grip if the widths are so close in size?
here-- (post #493)
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...ers-rs-33.html
here is the Hoosier site with tire size info--
http://hoosiertire.com/assets/Circui...%2029%2017.pdf
If grip is the same maybe the OZ with 235's are ok, except for tire clag issue?
do you think there is much of a difference in grip if the widths are so close in size?
here-- (post #493)
https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...ers-rs-33.html
here is the Hoosier site with tire size info--
http://hoosiertire.com/assets/Circui...%2029%2017.pdf
If grip is the same maybe the OZ with 235's are ok, except for tire clag issue?
#18
Rennlist Member
I was aware of the tread width difference when I specced the 235 to start with. I'm trying the 265 to find out if it works better. Most running Hoosiers are using the 265. The 235 on OZ was O.K., Of those reporting lap times on this board, I'm quickest at WGI. I found my 235 setup had more push then I like at NJMP and changed my swaybar setting from full hard both ends to middle in the F. I'm leaving the setup unchanged for my next outing at Summit Point but will probably change back for WGI.
Some of the quickest drivers in street GT4s were not quicker with 265s. Seems like if push is an issue, negating push should bring measurable improvements against a stopwatch (even if it's only 0.2-3 seconds), but I haven't seen it reported. Two things I keep thinking about,
1. the stock tires fit the wheel wells and aero is a big deal. If more air gets in the wheel wells, it could negate any mechanical grip advantage. CJ mentioned aero and tire diameter being an issue in the clubsport.
2. It seemed popular to reduce the rear wheels to 10.5 inches when increasing the front to 9. I'd prefer just to add front grip, not subtract rear grip, to get better balance. The real problem is that now two variables have changed so it's hard to see the effect of just increasing front grip.
In summary, more data is better, happy motoring.
#19
Keep us updated.
Some of the quickest drivers in street GT4s were not quicker with 265s. Seems like if push is an issue, negating push should bring measurable improvements against a stopwatch (even if it's only 0.2-3 seconds), but I haven't seen it reported. Two things I keep thinking about,
1. the stock tires fit the wheel wells and aero is a big deal. If more air gets in the wheel wells, it could negate any mechanical grip advantage. CJ mentioned aero and tire diameter being an issue in the clubsport.
2. It seemed popular to reduce the rear wheels to 10.5 inches when increasing the front to 9. I'd prefer just to add front grip, not subtract rear grip, to get better balance. The real problem is that now two variables have changed so it's hard to see the effect of just increasing front grip.
In summary, more data is better, happy motoring.
Some of the quickest drivers in street GT4s were not quicker with 265s. Seems like if push is an issue, negating push should bring measurable improvements against a stopwatch (even if it's only 0.2-3 seconds), but I haven't seen it reported. Two things I keep thinking about,
1. the stock tires fit the wheel wells and aero is a big deal. If more air gets in the wheel wells, it could negate any mechanical grip advantage. CJ mentioned aero and tire diameter being an issue in the clubsport.
2. It seemed popular to reduce the rear wheels to 10.5 inches when increasing the front to 9. I'd prefer just to add front grip, not subtract rear grip, to get better balance. The real problem is that now two variables have changed so it's hard to see the effect of just increasing front grip.
In summary, more data is better, happy motoring.
I think I read during the GT4 launch that Non-PCCB cars had slight more downforce due to better airflow, not sure on this....if this is true then the car is very sensitive to airflow around the front/wheel well.
#21
#22
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I mounted up a set of Hoosier P265/35ZR19 F and P295/30ZR19 R and did a trail fit again. Everything fit and no rubbing. A did a few laps at full steering lock both directions on my Cul-De-Sec and then ran a short time on the street. I am at stock ride height and I'm running 2.8 F and -2.4 R camber. The offsets look optimized. One thing I noticed is that the CCW wheels are a very snug fit on the hub. I think once the paint rubs off they will be fine. I'm going to run my old wheels and tires for most of my next event but do plan to heat cycle this set and will report back then.
#23
Three Wheelin'
Hey Bill can you post a picture of the car with your old wheel/tire combo below the picture of the new wheel/tire combo please?
How do the tops of the calipers look with the tire clag from the old wheels caught between barrel and caliper?
If you are selling your old set up PM me
#24
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hey Bill can you post a picture of the car with your old wheel/tire combo below the picture of the new wheel/tire combo please?
How do the tops of the calipers look with the tire clag from the old wheels caught between barrel and caliper?
If you are selling your old set up PM me
#25
Burning Brakes
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but if you're going to use Hoosier R7's you'll want more negative front camber. Without running at least -3.0 you won't be using the tire to its full advantage. But if you're driving the car on the street that will create wear problems. You really have to choose your poison. Without more negative camber the Hoosier advantage will be diminished. Even more so as you begin to push the car harder/faster.
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but if you're going to use Hoosier R7's you'll want more negative front camber. Without running at least -3.0 you won't be using the tire to its full advantage. But if you're driving the car on the street that will create wear problems. You really have to choose your poison. Without more negative camber the Hoosier advantage will be diminished. Even more so as you begin to push the car harder/faster.
#27
Three Wheelin'
I found running R7's on my GT3 with stock camber, my lap times dropped by 4 seconds a lap from 2:09 to 2:05 with tires alone .....they actually heat cycled out (25 cycles) before they corded, but of course, the last few laps were sketchy, but a ton of fun, sliding those R7's around....kind of a Chris Harris session
#28
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Just updating this thread. I ran a session at Summit Point with the CCW/Hoosier setup and just pulled the wheels and looked for issues. None found. I did slightly bend the wiring bracket subject of the 19" wheel warning during trial fit.
#29
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Keep us updated.
Some of the quickest drivers in street GT4s were not quicker with 265s. Seems like if push is an issue, negating push should bring measurable improvements against a stopwatch (even if it's only 0.2-3 seconds), but I haven't seen it reported. Two things I keep thinking about,
1. the stock tires fit the wheel wells and aero is a big deal. If more air gets in the wheel wells, it could negate any mechanical grip advantage. CJ mentioned aero and tire diameter being an issue in the clubsport.
2. It seemed popular to reduce the rear wheels to 10.5 inches when increasing the front to 9. I'd prefer just to add front grip, not subtract rear grip, to get better balance. The real problem is that now two variables have changed so it's hard to see the effect of just increasing front grip.
In summary, more data is better, happy motoring.
Some of the quickest drivers in street GT4s were not quicker with 265s. Seems like if push is an issue, negating push should bring measurable improvements against a stopwatch (even if it's only 0.2-3 seconds), but I haven't seen it reported. Two things I keep thinking about,
1. the stock tires fit the wheel wells and aero is a big deal. If more air gets in the wheel wells, it could negate any mechanical grip advantage. CJ mentioned aero and tire diameter being an issue in the clubsport.
2. It seemed popular to reduce the rear wheels to 10.5 inches when increasing the front to 9. I'd prefer just to add front grip, not subtract rear grip, to get better balance. The real problem is that now two variables have changed so it's hard to see the effect of just increasing front grip.
In summary, more data is better, happy motoring.
#30
Three Wheelin'