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Are there ways to inspect the strut towers for signs of fatigue / cracking that could eventually lead to a full blown failure?
Others here are more knowledgeable than me on this but usually Aluminum fails catastrophically with sometimes no evidence or signs to give you a heads-up.
I do check my strut towers periodically for any abnormality (fissures or anything strange) just in case.....
BTW, why aren't GT3's failing more? There have been a couple of cases, and they share the same part, but one would think they would suffer more failures, as there are way more GT3 made and certainly being tracked.
I have same question...was looking through their forum the other day for any posts. Didn't see any...
Are there ways to inspect the strut towers for signs of fatigue / cracking that could eventually lead to a full blown failure?
Not adequately. You could look for cracks, but I would guess that most cracks, if they occur, are not visible with the upper shock mount installed.
To fully inspect it would probably require an X-ray. To mostly test it would require a Zyglo test or similar. Both would require a significant amount to be removed from the car, the latter would require the casting to actually be removed.
I could be missing something. Inquire with some race teams that run GT4 Clubsports to see if they have an inspection regiment.
Not adequately. You could look for cracks, but I would guess that most cracks, if they occur, are not visible with the upper shock mount installed.
To fully inspect it would probably require an X-ray. To mostly test it would require a Zyglo test or similar. Both would require a significant amount to be removed from the car, the latter would require the casting to actually be removed.
I could be missing something. Inquire with some race teams that run GT4 Clubsports to see if they have an inspection regiment.
I remember a product that was spray or roll on the surface you want to test it and after a few minutes it would reveal any fissure under UV light...but not sure if it works on alloys.
I remember a product that was spray or roll on the surface you want to test it and after a few minutes it would reveal any fissure under UV light...but not sure if it works on alloys.
That may be true but consider that in this case, the alloy structure is painted. Relative to the size of the potential micro-fractures in the alloy, the paint is quite flexible, and I would doubt the cracks would permeate through. So this method would not likely be effective on a painted structural member.
That may be true but consider that in this case, the alloy structure is painted. Relative to the size of the potential micro-fractures in the alloy, the paint is quite flexible, and I would doubt the cracks would permeate through. So this method would not likely be effective on a painted structural member.
Sounds logical...I remember using it to test cylinder heads, which is bare metal.
Interesting follow up to the Scottish, yellow, RHD strut failure that was posted on youtube. Apparently, both strut towers are being replaced as the other side deformed and is out of tolerance. He mentions "strengthening brackets" in the second link and I assume that means the motorsport plates, but will have to wait and see.
I'm not an engineer, but I don't see how that brace has anything to do with the issue at hand. It's connecting the vertical wall - which is not the point of failure - to the frame rail. I suspect that strap is there for an entirely different reason. Perhaps reinforcing the connection of the tower to the frame rail. Also appears that there is a missing one that goes on the rear side.
The straps help to better approximate an ideal cylindrical strut tower shape.
Hold a ladle so the bowl is at the top.
Press three fingers up into the bowl.
Fingers closest to the stem exert greater effective pressure on the part of the bowl closest to the stem.
Then imagine doing the same with an inverted cup.
I'm following this on Instagram and I don't think this is the right way do do this....
Agree. Not sure what the base metal spec is, but welding aluminum is non-trivial. See this: "In steels a weld can be made as strong as the parent material, but this is not the case with aluminum. In almost all instances, the weld will be weaker than the parent material."
The owner acknowledges the need to reinforce it, so maybe they are on top of all the science. This failure does not look as "bad" as some of the others. The failure was not 360 degrees around the tower and just pressing the two pieces back together looked reasonable as far as how the final geometry would end up.
I'm following this on Instagram and I don't think this is the right way do do this.
Are you referring to the part about not filing an insurance claim or the repair process that was carried out? The owner may be attempting to keep vehicle history clean The Porsche-approved repair does not correct the root issue so popcorn rally for the IG post reinforcement strategy.
Are you referring to the part about not filing an insurance claim or the repair process that was carried out? The owner may be attempting to keep vehicle history clean The Porsche-approved repair does not correct the root issue so popcorn rally for the IG post reinforcement strategy.
Repair process. From what I gather. The entire section is removed and replaced. Not just welded back together. I would like to see how they reinforce the area though.
My repair process involved removing almost every front component that was around to the front wheel. The alum panel (strut tower), rivets, and bonding of the strut component were completely replaced with new OEM parts. This is just my experience. Pics are of the failed part.
04-23-2019, 08:46 AM
The Porsche-approved repair does not correct the root issue so popcorn rally for the IG post reinforcement strategy.
