usctrojanGT3

Oh don't worry, I stay away from tracks with pesky DB sound limits.

Scottykenneth

Damn you guys are making me want some

Sport or race? Hmmm

user1029

race headers for racecar

John@Fabspeed

PM sent, now would be a great time as we are having a special and the lead time is still only 2 weeks (but may now be for long haha)

Good man, I avoid Limerock like the plague around us

Looks like you were speaking with my man Brian over here, i shot you over an email personally but give me a call when you have a chance (215 646 4945) we can go over both options

Agreed

kitwetzler

Thanks for this great DIY - it gave me the guts to DIY my Cargraphics Sport headers.

Unlike the Fabspeeds, the longer intake runners on the Cargraphics are not nearly as friendly to putting the bolts in. You really need a short thin wall e12 socket, as well as a very high quality swivel. It helps to have infant sized hands as well. I got mine in, but was very scared I cross threaded a bolt - if you feel any significant resistance, back the bolt out immediately. The trick I found was put one easily reachable bolt in, and then do all the hard to reach ones, then put in the rest of the easy ones. You'll see what I mean when you are under there.

I have the IPD plenum and 82mm throttle body, and have been running the Cobb stage 1 OTS map thus far. With the headers, I switched to the stage two map. So far so good, two complete drive cycles and no CEL. You immediately notice more low end, the 3500 rpm gap is filled in completely. There is still a bit of a flat stop in the power curve at 4500-5000 rpm, but the car really pulls hard after that, now. I'm really happy with the sport headers - I don't like running a convertible completely catless. Need to head to the dyno soon, to get some real data.

sound-wise, the tone is much more interesting. I'd say 20-30% louder, but the pops on overrun are more natural sounding and 50% louder. With the valves closed on the stock PSE, it's hardly noticeable, but you can tell immediately when you roll into the throttle that something is different.

Cargraphics doesn't include a bolt and nut set for the header to catback transition either, luckily I had some, but you have to be pretty careful to find some that are long enough to tighten but short enough to maneuver into the driver's side, where the flange to cat clearance isn't great either.

John@Fabspeed

It is great to get rid of those factory headers isn't it? haha. Great additional insight into the Sport Header install, especially the bit about installing the bolts. How did you like the initial improvement of the IPD/TB package with the Cobb?

Jimmy-D

^John,

Speaking about the IPD/TB package it has been almost a month and no IPD yet. You originally sent me the TB but nothing yet on the IPD??

John@Fabspeed

None yet, IPD had an equipment failure hence the nationwide backorder. We have a stocking order that I'm told is top priority as soon as they finish their first batch. You and several others are on that list for first plenums out their door.

Jnosol

I used a 3/8" E12 and 6" extension to remove the OEM headers. To install, I used 1/4" 10mm thin wall socket (which fits over E12 bolts), 1/4" swivel, and 6" extension. You are correct on risk of cross threading, I started all bolts by hand first then using a small Lithium impact to drive the bolts home, then follow-up with 15ft-lb tq. Always tighten header bolts starting with the inner then work out to the outer so they seat correctly.

DrPhil Gandini

Jnosol: What is the basis for using 15ft-lbs when Fabspeed recommends 22ft-lbs? Are you assuming the swivel and extension add torque, so that the 15ft-bs at the wrench is multiplied to achieve 22ft-lbs at the bolt head?
A couple of us have reported lost bolts when torqued to the "old" 17ft-lbs specification after track days or many miles (6000 in my case.) I would think you would lose a lot of bolts at 15ft-lbs if that's the actual torque on the bolt in the head.

Jnosol

The bolts are technically 10mm head size (small), so I felt very weird to torque it to 22ft-lb... It feels like a bolts we're going to strip the aluminum head. Yes, swivel and 6" extension throw accuracy out the window. As an update, I re-torque the bolts again 2 weeks later when the engine was warm at 16ft-lb. the bolts moved a bit, but I will check it one more time in a month. Based on your assessment, my suggestion is torque it at 18-20ft-lb, wait a week then re-torque.

You'll see what I mean when I work on it. It's putting very extreme angle on the swivel for the a couple bolts.

okkin

Curious guys for those that have the Sport Headers....Have any of your engine temps changed? Run hotter? Same? Cooler with the sport headers installed?

John maybe you can chime in as well if the data is readily available?

thanks

Jimmy-D

My car is running exactly the same. I did have them swain coated but for street driving I do not think I would notice the heat difference in the cabin.

I believe the Sport Header options on this forums are equal if not better made than the OEMs although the OEMs are very well made so I am not knocking them but they do limit the car's potential

John@Fabspeed

Sorry guys, I do not have any data on this aspect. I can say I have heard no complaints/concerns about that of the countless we have sold so far

Jnosol

Guys.... Torque the header bolts in 2 stages. 12ft-lb then come back to torque 22ft-lb. Make sure the motor is cool to the touch...