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I have the cargraphic race headers (without cats). The only issue I have with these headers is that it doesn't have the secondary O2 sensors opening to reinstall the sensors so I cant pass the new York state annual inspection. The errors codes comes up saying O2 sensors not ready although the cobb accessport eliminate the check engine light on the dash. The only 2 solutions are 1)fabricate the cargraphic stainless headers with a welded bung to reinstall the secondary O2 with a spacer or 2)reinstall the oem headers to pass emission, then go back to thee after headers once inspection is done.
Do you see the o2 sensors not ready error in the Cobb or only if it gets hooked up to the inspection machine? Wondering if you can clear the error and get the car inspected before it comes back....
Do you see the o2 sensors not ready error in the Cobb or only if it gets hooked up to the inspection machine? Wondering if you can clear the error and get the car inspected before it comes back....
yes, the not ready code is shown on the Cobb as well. no way to clear the error and pass the NYS inspection. Need to have the secondary O2 installed back to the header (oem or aftermarket). If installing on the race headers, will need a qualified shop to weld a bung to the header followed by an O2 extender. This is the route I am going with so it is permanently fixed without having to reinstall the oem header every year I need to renew the mandatory emission inspection.
Yeah, just checked my Cobb. I knew the tune got rid of the cel either way but no secondary o2 sensor errors reported in the logs with the DMS headers.
Your secondary O2s are probably on the DMS headers so no error codes saying its not being read. Do you know if you have the extenders? Are your headers catless or with cats?
The secondary bung for the Cargraphic race manifold is on the over axle pipe but you guys only have 1 on the manifold since it's catless. For off-road usage for the race track our customers remove that secondary O2. We don't suggest this for street cars so that they can remain OBD compliant.
Your secondary O2s are probably on the DMS headers so no error codes saying its not being read. Do you know if you have the extenders? Are your headers catless or with cats?
Yeah, I didn't realize the cargraphic headers didn't have the bung for the secondary 02 sensors. I have the catless headers and it does have an extra long port as seen in this pic (taken from the DMS website - http://www.dundonmotorsports.com/por...-headers-425hp) but I don't have any extra extenders or mini-cats or anything for the 02 sensors.
For most aftermarket headers you will need at least a 1.5 inch long bolt or stud kit. The nuts on the passenger side are a PITA to install them.
You need a short and small socket with the extension thin enough to give you an angle. I also used one of those wobble socket connection and was able to torque up to 22 ft-lb
Good observation from GTS_Ninja....the stock bolts will go in easily another +/- 10 mm.....another reason to get the stud kit.
Had my existing Fabspeed sport headers coated locally with Cerakote. Supposed to be good to 1800 F. It's raining so I have only cranked it long enough to know these things smell a lot during burn in. The one thing I should have done before having them coated is taken a grinder to make a bit more room for the socket around a couple of the bolt areas.
While I was doing this I fabbed up a few heat shields which turned out really well. I bought a roll of thin aluminum flashing from Lowes for nearly nothing. You can even cut it with regular scissors. I had a roll of heat shield adhesive (like this but wider) that is about 4 inches wide. Made two semi-flat pieces (~4x6 in) and used existing threaded holes (circled in yellow) for attachment to shield the motor from the cat. Folded the aluminum over the edge of the heat shield to ensure it does not come up - worked really well since the thin aluminum is so flexible. But the complete part is quite stiff when all said and done. I took the photo before the heat shield was installed.
Also shielded the small (about 1.5-2 inches) amount of bare exhaust pipe at the connection to the header, just before the OEM heat shielding starts. I know that must get very, very hot being close to the cat and it radiates directly on the inside of the knuckle, brakes, etc. I need a photo to fully splain it!
This Cerakote will cut down on heat some (25-40%), but I don't believe as much as white-lightning or the expensive jet-hot product.
Do you 100% need to run software when using the race headers? Would love a set of race headers but want nothing to do with software.
No you do not, but be aware that you may get a CEL. Alan C has Dundon headers (can't recall if they are race or sport) but he does not get a CEL. I have no idea how that can be after watching the post-cat O2 sensor readings with OEM headers and the fabsport 200 cell cats. The Dundon second O2 sensor bung has a standoff, so maybe that is why. A tune will fix the CEL and optimize for the headers, but you would need to remove the tune before taking it to the dealer for warranty work.
Having just recently put the sport headers back on, I can say for sure there is a noticeable difference in the car's pull.
Do you 100% need to run software when using the race headers? Would love a set of race headers but want nothing to do with software.
i have the fabpseed race headers with both holes for the o2 sensors and the fabspeed mini cats attached before the o2 sensors and haven’t gotten a CEL with no tune. 10k miles so far
i have the fabpseed race headers with both holes for the o2 sensors and the fabspeed mini cats attached before the o2 sensors and haven’t gotten a CEL with no tune. 10k miles so far
Wow, that's great. I tried the mini-cats with the sport headers and could not get the CEL to go away. Had to put OEMs back on to get the inspection done. Do you by any chance have an OBDII dongle and a way to log your O2 sensor voltages? I would love to see those.
03-03-2018, 10:01 PM
