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Hey everyone! Today is the last day to take advantage of the group buy pricing on the 981/GT4 Cargraphic Race & Sport header group buy! If you have been on the fence, now is the time before the pricing increase from Cargraphic beginning Jan. 1st!
10% off 981/GT4 Modular Sport Headers
15% off 981/GT4 Long Tube Race Headers
And there we have it! Another successful group buy in the books. Thanks everyone who participated, and took advantage of the great deals we were able to pass along. Everyone should have received tracking yesterday for their inbound headers. Please post some photos and reviews once they are received!
It was pleasure working with you on this Wray. You guys are true professionals! Will follow up with reports later when spring arrives in the Northeast.
And there we have it! Another successful group buy in the books. Thanks everyone who participated, and took advantage of the great deals we were able to pass along. Everyone should have received tracking yesterday for their inbound headers. Please post some photos and reviews once they are received!
Thanks again,
Wray
Bought mine from you last October before this latest group buy. I had mine coated at Swain with White Lightning, headers and cats. Then painted them with Rustoleum 2000 deg. high heat paint, using their 2000 deg primer and flat black. took about 2 cans of primer and 1.5 of flat black. I followed the instructions on the can where the painted parts are baked in an oven at increasing temperatures, 30 min hot, 30 min cool, at 250, 400 and 600 (my oven only went to 550). Didn't emit much smell, no smoke, during baking. I installed using Stage 8 bolts for header to cylinder head in 25 mm length except for the 2 passing through the bracing bracket and used 30 mm on those. This provided almost identical thread engagement as the OEM bolts considering the Cargraphics flange is quite a bit thicker than the OEM. Probably wasn't necessary, but I'm moderate OCD, so humor me. Yes, they are installed on my BS, don't have the GT4 any more, but same-same from header perspective, I bought the GT4 primary tubing OD version. Took my first drive last night with stock ECU tuning, only about a 15 mile drive. Definitely noticeable increase in torque below 4,500 RPM which is what I was looking for. I have PSE, and as far as I could tell the sound level was same as OEM headers at cruise and small throttle openings. But with pedal 3/4 to the floor, the sound is noticeably louder above 2,000 RPM and at 5,000 and above sounds awesome. I love it. I didn't buy for sound but the change is all good as far as that goes, IMO. FWIW, you don't lose more than 0.5 lbs per side compared to OEM headers if you weigh all the brackets/bolts that go with each.
Thanks to Wray for his support through the process, I am a happy BGB customer .
Cargraphics 2-piece sport headers with bracing brackets, primaries and cats Swain coated with White Lightning, painted with 2000 deg flat black over gray 2000 deg primer
It was pleasure working with you on this Wray. You guys are true professionals! Will follow up with reports later when spring arrives in the Northeast.
You as well, Rob! Thanks again for the business, and please follow up once you get them installed!
Originally Posted by NelsonF
Missed the group buy, dammit. Hopefully, next one.
I will keep you in mind when we plan another round! In the meantime if you can't wait, feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll see what we can do.
Originally Posted by Corrado79
Can't wait for mine to arrive. Thanks BGB!
Any time, Neal! Post up some pictures/video when they arrive
Originally Posted by okie981
Bought mine from you last October before this latest group buy. I had mine coated at Swain with White Lightning, headers and cats. Then painted them with Rustoleum 2000 deg. high heat paint, using their 2000 deg primer and flat black. took about 2 cans of primer and 1.5 of flat black. I followed the instructions on the can where the painted parts are baked in an oven at increasing temperatures, 30 min hot, 30 min cool, at 250, 400 and 600 (my oven only went to 550). Didn't emit much smell, no smoke, during baking. I installed using Stage 8 bolts for header to cylinder head in 25 mm length except for the 2 passing through the bracing bracket and used 30 mm on those. This provided almost identical thread engagement as the OEM bolts considering the Cargraphics flange is quite a bit thicker than the OEM. Probably wasn't necessary, but I'm moderate OCD, so humor me. Yes, they are installed on my BS, don't have the GT4 any more, but same-same from header perspective, I bought the GT4 primary tubing OD version. Took my first drive last night with stock ECU tuning, only about a 15 mile drive. Definitely noticeable increase in torque below 4,500 RPM which is what I was looking for. I have PSE, and as far as I could tell the sound level was same as OEM headers at cruise and small throttle openings. But with pedal 3/4 to the floor, the sound is noticeably louder above 2,000 RPM and at 5,000 and above sounds awesome. I love it. I didn't buy for sound but the change is all good as far as that goes, IMO. FWIW, you don't lose more than 0.5 lbs per side compared to OEM headers if you weigh all the brackets/bolts that go with each.
Thanks to Wray for his support through the process, I am a happy BGB customer .
Cargraphics 2-piece sport headers with bracing brackets, primaries and cats Swain coated with White Lightning, painted with 2000 deg flat black over gray 2000 deg primer
Great write up, Mark! The coating turned out awesome, and should noticeably reduce engine bay temps. Glad to hear you are enjoying your sport headers!
The Cargraphic headers arrived this week, I placed each one's flange flat on my granite counter top (should be flat as glass). One of them looks essentially perfectly flat. The other has a slight bow in the center, maybe ~1mm of space in the middle, enough to see light and through to what's on the other side. Would this be within tolerances? Would torquing the bolts down, with gasket provide a proper seal with this sort of gap?
Well, I got it up on the lift just now. Waiting for it to cool down, then go ahead with the install this afternoon and hope for the best.
I've installed lots of headers on inline 4 (cars & motorcycles), never checked for flushness and never had an issue. Cant imagine they were all perfect. Though it's probably easier to flatten out a 4 cylinder header than a 3.
A quick tip for all of those installing the headers...get new bolts! While you could use them at least 1 more time I think these do stretch and the threads are very easy to cross.
Also, work them slowly each of them in small steps from center towards the outside.
I had to fix a damage thread on my GT4 recently and was able to source some Grade 8 studs with SS locking nuts for exhaust. With studs you don't need to worry about it and you can even put a bit extra torque.
I'll do a new thread with pics on the stud and nut kit......
Besides that....best mod you can do to the GT4!
Believe it or not, I had 3 of the bolts in, and the 4th one crossed threads. I have to chase the threads now to fix, its just the very first or second thread, as I didn't go in more than 1 turn.
However, I would LOVE to convert to studs for the header bolts, rather than continue with the stock bolts. Where exactly can I order the ones you used?
Believe it or not, I had 3 of the bolts in, and the 4th one crossed threads. I have to chase the threads now to fix, its just the very first or second thread, as I didn't go in more than 1 turn.
However, I would LOVE to convert to studs for the header bolts, rather than continue with the stock bolts. Where exactly can I order the ones you used?
Welcome to the Club! My case was worst. I had to retap to the next size as there were a lot of damage in one of them. But it worked perfectly and you can barely tell the difference when you look (it;'s the one in the photo bellow that has a different nut)
Thank God I was able to retap instead of going with an insert to stay with the OEM bolt size.
My first stud kit was purchased from one RL vendor....it's stainless steel bolts cut with stainless steel nuts.
I found at a local specialty hardware store metric Grade-8 studs (not bolts) with a allen recess on the top to properly thread them.
What I did is re-use the Stainless nuts from the previous kit and Voila!
You need 1.5" long studs and they should thread in between 10 and 12 full turns
Here you have some pics.
12-14-2017, 12:15 PM
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