Experiment - GT4 Track Setup Wiki:
12-06-2017, 05:29 PM
#466
Multi Link update
John,
speaking of the multi-link, can you give us an update?
is this something that can be reversed once it's added (say, you decide to sell the car and want to replace OEM stuff)
also, any problems with local technicians providing service/repairs once it leaves your shop?
thanks,
Steve
speaking of the multi-link, can you give us an update?
is this something that can be reversed once it's added (say, you decide to sell the car and want to replace OEM stuff)
also, any problems with local technicians providing service/repairs once it leaves your shop?
thanks,
Steve
12-06-2017, 05:36 PM
#467
Rennlist Member
I don't know anything about that multilink rear suspension but I can tell you it works!
I chased a Autoquest cheater GT4 at Road America.
Best I could do is stay even with him in my stock RS, driving ***** out.
It was so fast I followed him into the pit. Noticed fresh R7, OK..
The owner is a hell of a driver and a good liar haha, he made me just about crap my pants when he said it was stock LOL.
I chased a Autoquest cheater GT4 at Road America.
Best I could do is stay even with him in my stock RS, driving ***** out.
It was so fast I followed him into the pit. Noticed fresh R7, OK..
The owner is a hell of a driver and a good liar haha, he made me just about crap my pants when he said it was stock LOL.
12-07-2017, 10:19 AM
#468
Former Vendor
John,
speaking of the multi-link, can you give us an update?
is this something that can be reversed once it's added (say, you decide to sell the car and want to replace OEM stuff)
also, any problems with local technicians providing service/repairs once it leaves your shop?
thanks,
Steve
speaking of the multi-link, can you give us an update?
is this something that can be reversed once it's added (say, you decide to sell the car and want to replace OEM stuff)
also, any problems with local technicians providing service/repairs once it leaves your shop?
thanks,
Steve
The kit is bolt-on and fully reversible, so no concerns there. As for service, as always we prefer to do as much of the work on the kits ourselves. In the event of service required outside of our facility by an experienced shop, we fully support our product and will work with you and/or the shop to get you back on track as soon as possible. We are just a phone call or text away and you can consider us available at any time.
PM sent, we can chat a bit more in depth about it : )
I don't know anything about that multilink rear suspension but I can tell you it works!
I chased a Autoquest cheater GT4 at Road America.
Best I could do is stay even with him in my stock RS, driving ***** out.
It was so fast I followed him into the pit. Noticed fresh R7, OK..
The owner is a hell of a driver and a good liar haha, he made me just about crap my pants when he said it was stock LOL.
I chased a Autoquest cheater GT4 at Road America.
Best I could do is stay even with him in my stock RS, driving ***** out.
It was so fast I followed him into the pit. Noticed fresh R7, OK..
The owner is a hell of a driver and a good liar haha, he made me just about crap my pants when he said it was stock LOL.
02-06-2018, 11:55 AM
#469
Burning Brakes
Moderate Track Use:
Recommended settings are:
Front: Camber -2.5 to – 2.75; Toe zero, (or maybe very slightly toe out)
Rear: Camber -2.0 to -2.25; Toe in.
Caster: Center the front wheels in the well in order to minimize potential rubbing. For most this will be around a caster of about 9. Rear caster should not be a problem at these settings.
Notes:
In order to overcome the oem limitation for adding camber while maintaining appropriate toe and caster settings, aftermarket parts will need to be installed.
You will need shims to add camber, rear toe links to adjust rear toe and either front caster bushings, or adjustable thrust arms, to adjust front caster.
These parts are available either from Tarett Engineering or RSS Performance Components for Porsche.
Shim Kit:
http://rss.rpmware.com/rss/rss-align...i-1890057.aspx
Rear Toe Links:
http://rss.rpmware.com/rss/rss-adjus...i-2243823.aspx
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...lnk-detail.htm
Caster Bushings OR Adjustable Thrust Arms:
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...a01-detail.htm
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...010-detail.htm
TIP: On the GT4 the rear toe settings seems to slip easily. It is recommended that if you install the above aftermarket parts it is also wise to install toe lockout kits from either Tarett or RSS.
http://rss.rpmware.com/rss/rss-adjus.../i-541194.aspx
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...t01-detail.htm
Recommended settings are:
Front: Camber -2.5 to – 2.75; Toe zero, (or maybe very slightly toe out)
Rear: Camber -2.0 to -2.25; Toe in.
Caster: Center the front wheels in the well in order to minimize potential rubbing. For most this will be around a caster of about 9. Rear caster should not be a problem at these settings.
Notes:
In order to overcome the oem limitation for adding camber while maintaining appropriate toe and caster settings, aftermarket parts will need to be installed.
You will need shims to add camber, rear toe links to adjust rear toe and either front caster bushings, or adjustable thrust arms, to adjust front caster.
These parts are available either from Tarett Engineering or RSS Performance Components for Porsche.
Shim Kit:
http://rss.rpmware.com/rss/rss-align...i-1890057.aspx
Rear Toe Links:
http://rss.rpmware.com/rss/rss-adjus...i-2243823.aspx
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...lnk-detail.htm
Caster Bushings OR Adjustable Thrust Arms:
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...a01-detail.htm
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...010-detail.htm
TIP: On the GT4 the rear toe settings seems to slip easily. It is recommended that if you install the above aftermarket parts it is also wise to install toe lockout kits from either Tarett or RSS.
http://rss.rpmware.com/rss/rss-adjus.../i-541194.aspx
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...t01-detail.htm
02-06-2018, 12:30 PM
#470
Rennlist Member
https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/9779...de-height.html
After talking with Ira at Tarett, I went the camber plate route too. With the strut tower adjustment slots at max and the camber plates installed, I got to -2.7 degrees on my GT4. I went for camber plates for the following reasons:
- My main concern was tire wear, so I was not worried about increasing track width (a benefit of using shims)
- Using shims, I was worried about thread engagement on the front tie rod ends as well as the effect on caster of the lengthened control arms. The Tarett camber plates correct for caster, and alleviated my concern on the thread engagement
- Cost - the shim kit, thrust arm busings (to correct caster), and tie rod ends (for thread engagement) were going to run me around $950. The camber plates were less than 1/2 of that at $450.
- Ease of install - I do all my own work, so ease of install was important to me. The camber plates are super easy to install. It literally took me 30 min to do the first side, and 10 min to do the second side. Re-aligning to get back to zero toe took the longest!
Most people go the shim route, and I know you don't need to adjust caster or necessarily worry about thread engagement, but for me I like the camber plate route better. My $0.02
02-06-2018, 07:26 PM
#471
I agree with Klepper. I used shims to get -2.8 F when I first setup the car. I have since lowered the front ride height 10 mm and am getting some rubbing, some of which is due to excessive caster. I'm now removing some of the shims and adding camber plates. This will move the top of the tire inboard and relieve the rubbing as well as somewhat correcting caster.
02-07-2018, 06:46 PM
#472
Three Wheelin'
I agree with Klepper. I used shims to get -2.8 F when I first setup the car. I have since lowered the front ride height 10 mm and am getting some rubbing, some of which is due to excessive caster. I'm now removing some of the shims and adding camber plates. This will move the top of the tire inboard and relieve the rubbing as well as somewhat correcting caster.
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...9#ITEM_7054732
02-08-2018, 09:10 PM
#473
OEM GT3 > Tarett.
The OEM GT3 piece is the same as what comes on GT4 CS.
It is what Porsche Motorsport uses, and I believe it is even cheaper + shipping, than Tarett.
03-20-2018, 04:43 PM
#474
Instructor
06-06-2018, 02:10 PM
#475
Three Wheelin'
Trying to keep the setup simple without buying more suspension bits.
Here is my mild setup
RSS rear toe w lock
Tarett Spring kit
ShimsTIres = re71r 245/285 19s
sway - med/hard - i tried med/med just experimenting....
Alignment - F -2.8 R -2.3 front toe 0 Rear = 4mm in Caster front is 10.8 - now do you guys recommend bringing that down to 9 ish? I drive a lot of tight turn corners in my track. From what i understand, higher caster gives a little more stability
I have no rubbing in the front but I would like to stuff in 265 in the future. Do i need to get the Thrust arm bushing kit to correct the caster value? I guess the negative aspect of higher caster is i have to turn more to achieve same radius as lower caster? Maybe im not understand something.
Here is my mild setup
RSS rear toe w lock
Tarett Spring kit
ShimsTIres = re71r 245/285 19s
sway - med/hard - i tried med/med just experimenting....
Alignment - F -2.8 R -2.3 front toe 0 Rear = 4mm in Caster front is 10.8 - now do you guys recommend bringing that down to 9 ish? I drive a lot of tight turn corners in my track. From what i understand, higher caster gives a little more stability
I have no rubbing in the front but I would like to stuff in 265 in the future. Do i need to get the Thrust arm bushing kit to correct the caster value? I guess the negative aspect of higher caster is i have to turn more to achieve same radius as lower caster? Maybe im not understand something.
06-18-2018, 04:33 AM
#476
I am running a track-focussed setup with 3.5 neg F and R and 19" wheels. The rear was simple with just RSS toe links required. The front has involved changing a bunch of parts to get get a) the camber right and b) to then get the wheels back centred after holing out a set of guard liners.
Then at the track yesterday my track support mechanic said they now fit cup car adjustable strut tops and it allows the required camber with a a whole lot less bottom shims and they only cost about A$600 a pair plus fitting. Has any one else done that and got the result they want? If so I am not so happy having spent quite a lot on the advice of another garage to get where I am now. The setup is good and does what I want (plus I guess it's all rose joint mounted) but if the alternative is just as good, cheaper and uses genuine Porsche parts then I think I would have done that.
Then at the track yesterday my track support mechanic said they now fit cup car adjustable strut tops and it allows the required camber with a a whole lot less bottom shims and they only cost about A$600 a pair plus fitting. Has any one else done that and got the result they want? If so I am not so happy having spent quite a lot on the advice of another garage to get where I am now. The setup is good and does what I want (plus I guess it's all rose joint mounted) but if the alternative is just as good, cheaper and uses genuine Porsche parts then I think I would have done that.
06-19-2018, 01:56 PM
#477
Burning Brakes
My GT4 under hard threshhold braking, the rear end gets alittle squirrelly. Nothing unmanageable, but wondering if rear toe links would settle it down. Running max camber on stock suspension, med/hard on the front/rear sways.
06-19-2018, 02:13 PM
#478
Last edited by AutoquestMotorsports; 06-19-2018 at 03:00 PM.
06-19-2018, 02:23 PM
#480
Don't shoot me for offering a silly idea, but what happens if you take a few lbs out of the rear tires?
What hot pressures are you running (and which tires and size)?
In my experience, taking a few pounds out has helped eliminate the squirreliness you describe.