5500

Brought my car to the dealer last week for a track alignment. Put it on the rack, measured factory settings and inspected suspension. Said rear camber was maxed out at -1.3* each side and he couldn't get any more. I thought it was on the low side but figured maybe it was due to production tolerance.

This week I brought it to another dealer on a friends recommendation. His car was done about a week ago and he wound up with close to -1.6* in the rear.
Sure enough, after an hour the tech came out and told me there was an apparent problem as he could not get more than -1.3*. He did some investigating, contacted Porsche and he stated that there was some sort of documented issue with rear subframe mounting. He tried a couple of recommended fixes with only minimal improvement. Reports that the factory is collecting data on vehicles with this issue and the car will need to return for more scrutiny (he put it together so I could take it for the weekend).

Has anyone else heard of or experienced this issue???

STALKER99

When was your car produced?

SmokinGTS

I think the car needs to be at ROW ride height to get additional camber. Your car cam with a higher ride height to meet headlight height reg.

DrPhil Gandini

You can do a quick check of ride height. My car has -1.5d in the rear and the fenders are 27.75" off the ground at center, with fronts at 27.25" at center. I didn't lower my car, but did put 8mm shims in the front LCAs to get -2.1d at the front.

vantage

That's pretty normal. Seen cars get from -1.3 to -1.5 with toe within stock tolerance.

5500

Thanks all.

Car was produced December 2015.

Phil, I have 27 5/8" rear and 27 1/4" front at stock height.

I probably would have accepted it as regular production tolerances as the limiting factor untill the 2nd dealership technician said he researched it and that there is a known issue.

He's going to follow up next week. I'll keep searching and when I hear back from the tech next week I'll update.

johnr265

You need aftermarket toe links. That is the only way to get proper camber in the rear without dangerously compromising the toe.

mooty

^ that and you need front tie rod as well

kyrocks

I have -3.1 front and -2.5 in rear with just shims and rear toe links.

ShakeNBake

It's pretty clear what you need. If you're a smart guy, you already know that.

jphughan

Wow!! What's your front toe and caster? I thought for sure you'd need thrust arm bushings, tie rod ends, and maybe even Cup monoball ends for -3 in the front with reasonable other numbers. And how much shim are you running in the front?

ShakeNBake

That is surprising, I had so much caster without thrust adjustment that the front tires were rubbing in front fender lining and rear tires On the top/rear. Are you running a narrow/short 19" tire?

myBailey07

Hmmmm.....at -2.5, or more, my front wheels started rubbing the front wheel well when turning as the caster was pushed way outside of spec...

myBailey07

Shake, did you end up putting caster bushings in the rear as well? At -2.5 in the back I can see the wheel started to be pushed back in the well noticeably so. Just curious. I had to go back to -2 in any way in the rear as my 20's are rubbing at the top outside fender at -2.5 as the shims push out the wheel a few mm's too much.

I got to -3 front without issues using shims, front toe link and caster bushing. This is probably the max and going any higher camber plates are the way to go.

As to jp's comment, I have no idea at what point cup monoballs are needed. I did not need them at -3.

mooty

i am very surprised.
u must lowered the car a lot, 12-15mm? if so, you dont need too much shim and thus less caster issue.
since you dont shim a lot, you dont relaly need the longer tie rod either.

is that the trick you used?