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Well, after a TON of work to get my ceiling boxed out and raised 12" I finally got my Advantage Lift installed yesterday. Couldn't be happier with the results. I now have more than enough room to store the two cars over each other and in fact was surprised at how high I could raise the 911 for service work. I'm 6'2 and I can stand flat footed between the ramps under the car. Now, if I had any hair up there I'd probably rub a bit.
Doing the texturing of the sheet rock today and then paint within a week. I hope. And then it's done. Well worth all the work.
Here's the car raised as far as it'll go.
Next project will be epoxy floors and new cabinets.
^Doing something similar in our new home - just raising the section of the ceiling where the greenhouse of the car goes. Mind sharing what your original ceiling height is and how high the raised section is? TIA
Original ceiling height was 9'3" and I bumped it up an additional 12".
There's a large unfinished area above the garage that could easily be converted to a game room, media room, etc so I wanted to retain the integrity of the floor above. The exiting joists were 14" tall. I had a framer come out and create a 8' x 12' opening by adding additional full length beams. Then laid down 2"x2"x1/4" steel tube across the opening on 12" centers. Put the flooring back in place and it's as sturdy as it was before the change.
Overall it's been a big pain in the butt but now it seems worth it.
^Thanks. I have no second floor on top, but the roof comes slopping down at the front and the back, so can only raise the middle portion where the car's greenhouse goes. So hopefully it all works out.
Thanks for all the great comments everyone - very helpful information as I begin my plans/search for a lift.
My garage is 24 feet deep x 16 feet wide, 10 feet high in the center sloping to 8ft 8inch to the side ceiling height. From what everyone has stated- my calculations reflect that I should be OK to stack two P cars if I place the lift a foot from the wall. My concern is I still want room in the garage to work on projects and do not want the lift to be totally in the middle of the garage eating up all my floor space.
Questions:
1) Any opinions on 220 vs 110 for power ( I understand 110 Motor will be a tad slower)
2) Anyone pulling power by having hardwired to ceiling powerbox vs normal floor level outlet
3) have read so many of you have had tight( 2'"-3" ) between roof of your car and garage ceiling or upper ramp - any lessons learned?
4) any installer recommendations for NO CA / East Bay?
Questions:
1) Any opinions on 220 vs 110 for power ( I understand 110 Motor will be a tad slower)
2) Anyone pulling power by having hardwired to ceiling powerbox vs normal floor level outlet
3) have read so many of you have had tight( 2'"-3" ) between roof of your car and garage ceiling or upper ramp - any lessons learned?
4) any installer recommendations for NO CA / East Bay?
Thanks!
I have the 110V motor and it's fast, I was expecting it much slower based on what I've read online on the 110V vs 220V debate.
I wouldn't hardwire it, I have casters and can move it around if needed, but more importantly I saw members posts where the push button was stuck and the lift kept going up...
My lift is 110v. We ran a line to the panel with a dedicated 20amp fuse. The plug is in the ceiling almost directly above the post with the power unit.
Speed is very good and acceptable to me as I'm not taking cars off and on all day. I will say that in 30 degree weather with no car on the lift it came down WAY slow. However this can be adjusted with an apportioning valve on the unit.
Last edited by BartN (TX); 12-19-2016 at 12:26 PM.
And to add, moving the lift with the casters (no car on it) is very easy. Almost too easy. I moved it out of the way so they could texture the ceiling and I had to stay on top of it so it didn't swing around and hit something. Next time I'll have my wife grab one post and I'll grab the other.
Well, after a TON of work to get my ceiling boxed out and raised 12" I finally got my Advantage Lift installed yesterday. Couldn't be happier with the results. I now have more than enough room to store the two cars over each other and in fact was surprised at how high I could raise the 911 for service work. I'm 6'2 and I can stand flat footed between the ramps under the car. Now, if I had any hair up there I'd probably rub a bit.
Doing the texturing of the sheet rock today and then paint within a week. I hope. And then it's done. Well worth all the work.
Here's the car raised as far as it'll go.
Next project will be epoxy floors and new cabinets.
I have the same lift and it's great. Good quality.
for lowered cars anyone have photos of their setup with race ramps extending their lift ramps? Just want to see what everyone else is doing. Assuming standard gt cars always have to be backed on due to clearance. Just almost ripped off the front bumper of my e30 m3 several weeks ago due to clearance coming off the lift ramps.
for lowered cars anyone have photos of their setup with race ramps extending their lift ramps? Just want to see what everyone else is doing. Assuming standard gt cars always have to be backed on due to clearance. Just almost ripped off the front bumper of my e30 m3 several weeks ago due to clearance coming off the lift ramps.
with the 991 and .2 you can drive straight up on aluminum ramps, if you can, just get the lightweight race ramps, the bendpak aluminum are heavy!
@poofyo101 I highly recommend going with Race Ramps. They are pricey but worth it. If you have a lift that they support, you can buy one that fits your needs. Unfortunately, Race Ramps does not make a ramp that attaches to the two-bolt system on my Atlas lift, so I had to get creative. I came up with a home-brewed solution to solve three issues 1) easily getting my GT4, Spyder, and race cars onto my post lift 2) getting the aforementioned cars into my Featherlite enclosed trailer, and 3) have something that would not throw out my back (as my 58 lbs steel ramps tended to). The solution I devised (see below) starts off with a 5" high, 67" long RR-TR-5 trailer ramp that has a 4.3 degree approach angle. To that, I added a bridge that slides onto the lift's two bolts and is strapped to the Race Ramp. This uses a 1/4" aluminum plate, a block of tapered wood, a 12x24 1/8" of aluminum diamond plate, a strap, and an adhesive nonskid for added friction between the ramp and the bridge. This solves all the issues mentioned above as all the cars have easy clearance, I can easily unstrap the bridge and use it on my trailer, and each ramp with the bridge attached weighs less than 20 lbs (each ramp alone weighs 10 lbs). Additionally, I can store them against the posts so they are out of the way.
I just had a Bendpak HD9 installed and would like to get a set of the lightest ramps possible. I looked at the latest Race Ramp offerings and it seems that they no longer sell a product compatible with the Bendpak ramp attachment design. I can get the Bendpak aluminum 36" ramps (5174497) for around $450, these weigh 16lbs each. Or I can "modify" a set of the Race Ramps ( RR-RACK-HN20-5) for around $590, these weigh 15lbs each.
For the 1Lb difference, it seems like the Bendpak aluminum 36" ramps would be the easier choice....... especially since I have to back-on to the lift anyways.
12-10-2016, 10:09 AM
