Accel Junky

I also had to go over 8 quarts in mine. Just for reference:

I took it for a short drive after the oil change using a hair over 8 quarts (by accident) and then re-measured. Still one square over min so I slowly added and rechecked. About 1/2 quart more got me to 2 squares. Then I did another 1/6 quart and that put me to max 4 squares over. So looks like the difference between 3 and 4 squares is pretty slim. 3 squares over min is what is recommended for the track so in my case I would want to extract a tiny bit or hope it burns off after a bit. So with a thorough oil drain (articulating the car to get the oil drain plug down hill) it took me 8 and 2/3 quarts to get to full when the manual calls for 7.9X quarts. Caveat Emptor, YMMV, etc...

Kelsey

Thanks. Good information here as always. I'll let you know what I use.

4carl

The gauge is a joke! How about a real dipstick? The problem is it would have to be 5ft long to reach the sump..

The real test of accuracy when measuring is repeatably. The gauge goes up and down depending on its mood ? Did it on all three of my 981s 14,15,GT4. carl

usctrojanGT3

What oil weight are you guys using? I have Motul X-Cess 5W-40 Oil...will that work?

DeerHunter

Whichever oil you use, make sure it meets Porsche specs or you will jeopardize your engine warranty.

4carl

This time i did M1 5-50. On the other two 981CS's i ran 4qt M1 0-40 &
4qt M115-50 mix
. The 15-50 has 1300 Zink VS1100 0-40 &5-50. The mix gives you a 7.5-45.
Ran the mix on several track cars going back 11 years GT3&2 plus 2 981s no issues or consumption. carl

usctrojanGT3

I know it's Porsche approved for the 991 GT3.

DeerHunter

Did my first elective oil change today, just ahead of a long road trip. The car only has 900 km on the clock, but it was either that or almost 3,000 km (estimated mileage when I return).

I bought a set of plastic ramps from Canadian Tire for half off, plus an oil canister tool and filter from our local import specialty place. The ramps are too steep to use from the front, but they work perfectly well if I reverse onto them. The front lip doesn't touch and, if I chock the wheels, it's perfectly safe to crawl under (and fairly roomy too). Best yet, with the slope of my driveway, it leaves the car fairly level.

It went smoothly and the only issue is, as expected, the canister makes an unholy mess when removed. It's best to loosen the canister with the tool, then remove it and unscrew the rest of the way by hand. If you leave the tool on, it won't fit between the sump/chassis gap, and it's also almost impossible to separate once slimy with oil. I filled the new filter part-way to minimize pressure drop when starting, replaced everything and torqued to spec. It took a couple of top-ups to get to 3 bars and all is well.

Easy to do and it saved me over $300 compared to getting it done at the dealer.

gmaki

So what brand/type of oil do you all use? the manual specifies Mobil1 but I recently heard bad things about it (all rumor of course). Is there an agreed upon "best" oil?

I am about to do my post break in oil change at 1,300 miles.

Tplgt4

You can buy a rabbit dropping pan from Fleet and Farm in the USA or Tractor Supply Company in Canada to keep the mess contained. Basically it's the steel pan with a 1" lip that covers the button of an animal cage and both stores have various sizes. Super inexpensive and ideal for containing oil overflow! I use a 2ftX3ft pan under my oil drain container. When I am done I clean it with brake cleaner and put it back against the wall.

Rob VN

I think the oil filter is on the top of the engine. The tools may work.

STLPCA

The oil extracted during LWBS manufacturing is clearly the best.
The "best" oil debate is a sibling of the "best" seat debate. Try a search, read the gazillion posts, and you still won't have a consensus. I've used M1 in all my Porsches and have no reason to change. It doesn't even taste that bad.

DeerHunter

If by top, you mean bottom, then yes. You use a filter tool from below to remove the canister, change the filter insert and reinstall. It is messy, so the pan idea is a really good one.

gmaki

I was hoping this wasn't going to be the case, but suspected it might.

I wanted it both so I could go and purchase my oil for my upcoming oil change and secondly because I want to add it to my "wisdom" tab on the google doc.

I knew it would be an issue though when I told some random guy on Mullholland I was going to change my oil around 1,000 miles and I got a 20 minute monologue about the chemical composition of Mobil1 and why some other oil was the so superior.

Mike J

On some of the previous cars, like the 993's, there is a single relay that can be pulled to disable the ignition and fuel pump - that allows the engine to be cranked over to fill filters after an oil change with no piston wash or ignition. Good technique if you want to avoid that instant of time while an oil filter fills and there is no oil pressure in the engine right after a change (then again, not sure on a GT4 where the oil filter is in the circuit).

Does such a spot exist on the GT4?

Cheers,

Mike