venom51

You can have access to the same real time oil level reading the dealership uses. You just have to spend enough on a good diag tool. My Autel MS906TS happily gives you the oil level sensor reading.


The sensor reads 2.6 inches at the top fill box...


The car is still warm so I will let it cool completely and come back with the cold measurement in both inches and millimeters.

Edit : So after sitting over night and cooling as well as completely draining back into the sump the measurements cold are as follows.

Imperial : 2.70 inches
Metric : 68.75 millimeters

Per the manual..
The oil level must be > 1.96 inches in order to be able to start the engine without possible subsequent damage.
The oil level must be > 50 millimeters in order to be able to start the engine without possible subsequent damage

GTS_Ninja

That picture is a bit deceiving... That's FULL bar correct?

venom51

Green to the top line. So one block clear at the top. That's where it was when I got it after it was checked out at Porsche before I purchased it.

GTS_Ninja

Copy. That's what I thought. Just confirming. You definitely don't want to overfill.

That means almost a gauranteed oil change needed. It's almost impossible to just loosen the drain plug, drain, and re-tighten.

venom51

You could loosen the drain plug and let it drip out around it. It would be slow but would keep you from having to change it all. I'd rather have a good repeatable procedure so now that I know what the number is from the sensor then it is easy enough to repeat next time around.

GTS_Ninja

Like I said, almost impossible.

Don't ask me how I know... not me, but I've sat around a enough friends wrenching on cars to see some pretty stupid mistakes. Haha

BillC3

Probably the safest way to reduce your oil level a little bit without risking dumping all the oil, is to remove the oil filter canister, dump it out and then re-install it empty (with the filter, though). That'll remove about a pint of oil from the engine.

venom51

Original post updated with cold sensor values.

venom51

I also just found where the Autel MS906TS keeps the OverRev information. It can be found under DME -> Live Data -> Timing Angle.

vtmikev

Then Autel MS906TS seams like a great tool to have.... Does it have the ability to disable the Electric E mergency brake for easy brake pad:/ rotor changes?

venom51

Yes. It will do just about everything shy of a full dealership programming. One limitation I know it has is it can't do the Porsche key pairing. Full diags, TPMS programming, coding and all the service resets are available. You can get one a tick cheaper if you can live without the TPMS reading/programming functionality being built in.

I specifically took along time evaluating tools to make sure that what I bought would cover all 4 brands we own really well. I specifically also wanted a TPMS tool but did not want to keep a separate tool just for that. Next on the list to pick up for this thing is the 4 channel O-Scope and the USB bore inspection camera.

ExMB

That tool appears to be more for a shop than an individual based on the cost; based on your posted statements.

venom51

If you are an individual that likes to do your own work it is well worth the money. It is an upper end tool but the full pro level tool is about double or better that cost. Peace of mind knowing how and when the work was done is also very valuable. I have never wasted money on good tools.

ExMB

Full pro level is PIWIS. That is 10 times the cost + yearly fees.

Be honest; how many individuals can justify this tool with Durametrics and Schwaben out there. You are a shop and can get this off your taxes as a business expense. Doing your own work explanation is a stretch.

venom51

I was talking the full pro level of the Autel tool line. That tool is north of $3k. Just like the PIWIS I don't think the additional feature set is something the average DIY user needs. Most of it has to do with full car programming that requires subscriptions from the manufacturer of which you need a shop license to get if I recall from the homework I did.

But let's do the math. I paid $1180 for the tool. I bought it to cover the 4 brands that I own. That's $295 per car. About the cost of the Durametric enthusiast. The difference being the Durametric covers one brand and 3 VINs in total. I spent a little more than the Pro version of the Durametric and can cover 40+ makes and as many as I'd like to work on plus TPMS. Even if you aren't a shop, which I am not, it is still a good value.

I don't think anyone has to justify anything when spending their own money. Having said that if you own multiple brands and do your own work it easily pays for itself in no time.