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Tie down points on GT4 chassis

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Old 03-05-2018, 11:43 AM
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Shandingo
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Default Tie down points on GT4 chassis

I was rencently discussing with another RL member whether it is a good idea to use the front tie down points that Rennline sells for the 981 chassis. Obviously there are several benefits to using these, but our conversation turned to the question whether the front jackpoints on the GT4 chassis are designed to be able to handle the specific loads that would be generated by tying down to the RL prices (which are anchored to the forward side jackpoints on the 981 chassis). I believe that the jackpoints on the chassis itself are made in aluminum and not steel (the Rennline pieces are steel). Obviously the jackpoints were designed to handle the weight of the car when lifted from below, but it is not obvious that these parts of the chassis are designed to handle the side loads that one would assume are present when introducing the Rennline pieces and tightening down the ratchet straps to those pieces. Presumably all of the forces acting on the RL pieces are transmitted to the jackponts on the chassis.

Anyone have any thoughts?
Old 03-05-2018, 06:26 PM
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DoxCroc
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I've used them. Haven't had a problem.
Old 03-05-2018, 07:43 PM
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GeoJoe
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Originally Posted by DoxCroc
I've used them. Haven't had a problem.
Same here... they work great.

BTW, I never tow the car in gear and I usually apply the parking brake when I'm on my way to the track and everything is cold. But when I'm leaving the track and the rear rotors are still hot I don't apply the parking brake for fear of rear rotor damage.

So for 10-20min I'm relying on just the Rennline tow hooks to secure the car to the trailer. It kinda freaks me out and I'll stop eventually, touch a cold rear rotor and apply the parking brake. I'm not sure if this is recommended or not...just my habit.
Old 03-05-2018, 11:21 PM
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FLACHT6_pilot
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I use them as well - no issues.
Old 03-06-2018, 12:23 AM
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ShakeNBake
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Two years now, no issues.
Old 03-06-2018, 02:47 PM
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aryork
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If in doubt, use the T-hook tiedown points built into the car.
Old 03-06-2018, 02:57 PM
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Shandingo
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Originally Posted by aryork
If in doubt, use the T-hook tiedown points built into the car.
Aren’t you referring to the side jack points under the rockers? Those are the locations where the Rennline front tie down parts connect. That is what I was asked about.
Old 03-06-2018, 03:09 PM
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aryork
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Originally Posted by Shandingo
Aren’t you referring to the side jack points under the rockers? Those are the locations where the Rennline front tie down parts connect. That is what I was asked about.
I think so...it's these:

After seeing how the geometry worked with the strap, I added the triangle (top image).
Old 03-06-2018, 03:29 PM
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Shandingo
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Originally Posted by aryork
I think so...it's these:

After seeing how the geometry worked with the strap, I added the triangle (top image).
this is the same location the Rennline tie down points connect, so if there is any issue with that part of the chassis not being able to take the forces, it would also be an issue with the J hook setup. Separately, I am not a fan of the J hook setup. If you hit a bump and one of the J hooks falls out, you will be SOL. At least the Rennline parts allow you to hook in with a snap hook that has a keeper.
Old 03-06-2018, 03:41 PM
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aryork
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Originally Posted by Shandingo
Separately, I am not a fan of the J hook setup. If you hit a bump and one of the J hooks falls out, you will be SOL. At least the Rennline parts allow you to hook in with a snap hook that has a keeper.
No way the hook falls out as long as there is tension on the strap! That's what the holes are there for. I've tested mine (purposefully) over gnarly speed bumps, and they worked fine. But there many ways to tie the car down and all of them will likely work without a problem. For me, figuring out the tongue load took a long time. I finally backed the car onto the trailer (someone here recommended it) which made things work out much better overall.



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