Mech33

Hi Carl,

Thanks for your great write-up. I just installed these arms, and I ran into the exact same thing you did: the thick plastic washer is not correct, and prevents you from being able to tighten the nut / bolt combo like stock (if you tighten it down to the bolt shoulder, you bind the adjuster arms).

So you have to back off on the bolt torque and rely on the lock nut to hold the assembly even though it's not tightened down... sketchy in my opinion.

The right solution would be to do something like stock, which is essentially a wavy washer with dry grease that compresses when you tighten the assembly down, keeping everything solid without play while still allowing the arms to freely rotate.

In this modified arm case, I think that would just be a simple washer like you identified that is either bent slightly so it can apply some pre-load to the joint, or use a 2-washer combo where one is a thin wavy washer.

I may take my seat apart again to replace the washers as I don't feel great about the arms not being properly torqued down. I suspect they will back out slightly and develop some slop over time and potentially prematurely wear / gaul some of the hardware.

4carl

Thats exactly i did a 14mm crush washer and a 14mm wave washer under tha head of the bolt. No play and no binding..carl

Mech33

NOW you tell me!! LOL. Will have to pull the seat back out. Do you have a link to the specific flat washer as well?

4carl

i ended taking the seat out 3 times. Once for the original install then take out the plastic washers and install the 14mm crush and the third time to add the 14mm wave washer. The 14 mm crush washer is just a drain plug copper or alum washer.

You're actually lucky you only have to do it over 2x
not 3x like me. Although i did get good at it. carl

Mech33

Thanks Carl! Ordered and will give them a shot on Thursday.

Mech33

Hey Carl, the 0.3mm wavy washers + 1.5mm flat washer worked perfectly! Though the copper 1.5mm washers linked were low quality and had to be deburred significantly.

That stack is a tight fit so I think a 1.25-1.4mm washer would be better and leave some room for tolerance.

4carl

Your correct what I did on the ones that were tight is take a hammer to the copper washers and make them a little thinner. It's really too bad you're OCD like me . I thought I was the only one . Hope you can get help! It's to late for me! Carl

HiWind

thanks for the write up Carl .. to clarify are you saying (re getting in/out seat etc..) that the seat at lowest setting is now higher than previously? I expected the bottom front of the seat to be higher and the back to be the same, right?

re the red plastic inserts on the stock arms -- can't you move those across to the new arms?

Warwick Morris

You are correct. At the lowest setting front is higher and back is lower giving very laid-back position. As you raise the seat with the height adjuster, the back progressively become more upright, thus giving a range of seat angles which is why the mod is so good. It's the only way that I can comfortably wear a Hans device; also a lot more comfortable for me at 5' 10". As for the red inserts, I think the supplier now supplies updated washers that work better. A lot of people use these now. I bought 2 but only installed on drivers side but will the other one for my GT3RS when it arrives in Feb '19.

HiWind

thanks Warrick!

Space Coast GT3

For me it is. Easier on the back that is. I also took a foam mouse pad and placed it inside the seat back cushion. Added some lumbar to further take out the "straightness" of the seat back. Works for me anyway.