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-   -   gt4 tie down advice? (https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4-spyder/935802-gt4-tie-down-advice.html)

nowata 05-23-2016 04:53 PM

gt4 tie down advice?
 
In the past I have always run straps thru the wheels to tie down a car on my open trailer. Are there any other recommendations that I should follow for this particular car?

myBailey07 05-23-2016 07:04 PM

Many people do it, so there's no real reason I see why you can't continue doing it; however, consider installing trailer tie downs like these.

http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-981-...ear-tie-downs/

(They have front ones as well, I just don't see them on website now...)

Once you have them you will never go back. It takes seconds clipping the straps into them and it is MUCH more convenient than dealing with wheel straps etc.

Besides convenience there are other benefits as well. When you tie down your wheels your car's suspension is basically more free to move on the trailer. When you strap the car down by the frame your car is less free to move around on the trailer. This makes for a more stable pull. Also in case of an accident, it is better to have the car tied down by the frame and not have the added momentum of a car being more able to move more, jerk on the straps harder, wheels with room to rotate etc.

I recently had a fender bender on the highway trailering my car, hitting another vehicle from behind. Even though the impact was not too big and I had limited damage to the tow vehicle itself, the impact of the sudden stop in the trailer and loaded car was very noticeable. The rear straps that stopped the car from moving forward was pulled so tight and stretched that I had to cut them off to remove them. The car moved forward probably a good 2-3 inches on the trailer even though tied down VERY tight by the frame - And they were heavy duty motorsport straps. I don't know what the difference would have been tied to the wheels, but I am glad I did not have to find out.

So, the last lesson is that not using wimpy straps is probably just as important, if not more, than where exactly you tie the car down.

Just some thoughts...

ExMB 05-23-2016 07:41 PM

There always seem to be multiple schools of thought on tieing down a car: movable suspension or not. Add to that crossing the straps or are the D-rings placed properly on x length trailer to utilize straps.

myBailey07 05-23-2016 07:45 PM


Originally Posted by ExMB (Post 13313649)
There always seem to be multiple schools of thought on tieing down a car: movable suspension or not. Add to that crossing the straps or are the D-rings placed properly on x length trailer to utilize straps.

You are so right. I think that is probably indicative that one way is not CLEARLY more superior than the other. As long as you use proper straps, tie the dang thing down properly and regularly check that all is fine, it probably doesn't matter as much.

I can tell you from experience though that the tie down hooks are a heck of a lot more convenient and efficient....:thumbup:

ExMB 05-23-2016 08:23 PM


Originally Posted by myBailey07 (Post 13313665)
I can tell you from experience though that the tie down hooks are a heck of a lot more convenient and efficient....:thumbup:

I believe you. How long is you trailer? Where are your D-rings located in relation?
I have an 18' open. My GT4 has to be tied down on it differently than my old R. Partially due to the aero as well as being lower.

myBailey07 05-23-2016 09:31 PM


Originally Posted by ExMB (Post 13313787)
I believe you. How long is you trailer? Where are your D-rings located in relation?
I have an 18' open. My GT4 has to be tied down on it differently than my old R. Partially due to the aero as well as being lower.

http://s33.postimg.org/svirn511b/70_...R_A0_NMj_A.jpg


Nothing fancy - simple 20' steel trailer with D rings in the back and front corners. I cross the back straps, but not the fronts simply due to the way the front tie hooks are positioned. I torque the straps diagonally like you do your wheel nuts.

Basic setup. Would have liked fancier setup with lighter aluminum trailer to carry more stuff on trailer itself, but did not want to spend the money.

I am no trailer expert. I suck at backing up, am learning everything the hard way, and since I have gotten a trailer have taken out a pole at a gas station, a parked van' s rear corner and the back fender of a car in front of me on highway 35, and, once after people were waving at me frantically realized that I was driving down the road going 60mph dragging my ramps behind the trailer as I forgot to put back the safety latches that keep the pull-out ramps secure...:surr:

Hopefully me "trailer learning curve" is now behind me.

ExMB 05-23-2016 09:39 PM


Originally Posted by myBailey07 (Post 13313950)
http://s33.postimg.org/svirn511b/70_...R_A0_NMj_A.jpg


Nothing fancy - simple 20' steel trailer with D rings in the back and front corners. I cross the back straps, but not the fronts simply due to the way the front tie hooks are positioned. I torque the straps diagonally like you do your wheel nuts.

Basic setup. Would have liked fancier setup with lighter aluminum trailer to carry more stuff on trailer itself, but did not want to spend the money.

I am no trailer expert. I suck at backing up, am learning everything the hard way, and since I have gotten a trailer have taken out a pole at a gas station, a parked van' s rear corner and the back fender of a car in front of me on highway 35, and, once after people were waving at me frantically realized that I was driving down the road going 60mph dragging my ramps behind the trailer as I forgot to put back the safety latches that keep the pull-out ramps secure...:surr:

Hopefully me "trailer learning curve" is now behind me.

One thing I did in the beginning, after a receiving a suggestion at a DE, is to create a checklist and tape on the inside of the tow vehicle where its most visible. Get out with it and go over it again before you take off.

ShakeNBake 05-23-2016 10:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I always thought something like this would be ideal, using L track or E track, assuming it's strong enough.

Attachment 1054278

On my trailex, I have to tie down the front chassis to stop it from bouncing up into the tire rack. I cross-tie the rear wheels - though theoretically it might cause an alignment issue over time.

robziv 08-08-2016 06:16 AM

Is it safe to say I shouldn't try to be lazy and use the tow hooks to tie down the car in the trailer?

Phokaioglaukos 08-08-2016 05:28 PM


Originally Posted by robziv (Post 13510691)
Is it safe to say I shouldn't try to be lazy and use the tow hooks to tie down the car in the trailer?

:roflmao:

bella1 08-10-2016 06:31 PM

Fronts
 

Originally Posted by myBailey07 (Post 13313542)
Many people do it, so there's no real reason I see why you can't continue doing it; however, consider installing trailer tie downs like these.

http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-981-...ear-tie-downs/

(They have front ones as well, I just don't see them on website now...)

Once you have them you will never go back. It takes seconds clipping the straps into them and it is MUCH more convenient than dealing with wheel straps etc.

Besides convenience there are other benefits as well. When you tie down your wheels your car's suspension is basically more free to move on the trailer. When you strap the car down by the frame your car is less free to move around on the trailer. This makes for a more stable pull. Also in case of an accident, it is better to have the car tied down by the frame and not have the added momentum of a car being more able to move more, jerk on the straps harder, wheels with room to rotate etc.

I recently had a fender bender on the highway trailering my car, hitting another vehicle from behind. Even though the impact was not too big and I had limited damage to the tow vehicle itself, the impact of the sudden stop in the trailer and loaded car was very noticeable. The rear straps that stopped the car from moving forward was pulled so tight and stretched that I had to cut them off to remove them. The car moved forward probably a good 2-3 inches on the trailer even though tied down VERY tight by the frame - And they were heavy duty motorsport straps. I don't know what the difference would have been tied to the wheels, but I am glad I did not have to find out.

So, the last lesson is that not using wimpy straps is probably just as important, if not more, than where exactly you tie the car down.

Just some thoughts...

http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-981-...ont-tie-downs/

Like this jack plate too. Might order all three. I have always had these on my trailered cars

http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-981-...ar-jack-point/

f4 plt 08-11-2016 07:26 AM


Originally Posted by robziv (Post 13510691)
Is it safe to say I shouldn't try to be lazy and use the tow hooks to tie down the car in the trailer?

I actually do use the front screw in tow hook and I attache the wench cable to it as well as two tie down straps. In the past I have also used "Through the wheel" straps but 9 out of ten times this method is always blocked by a valve stem being in the wrong place. For any of the mid engine cars the Rennline rear tie down attachment points work well.

Mussl Kar 08-11-2016 07:50 AM

I made my own tie down system that holds the car by the front wheels only. I always tie the rear down with those 1" 300 lb ratchet straps to the tow eye.They are loose at my destination. Just drove 8 hours to the northern tip of Maine and forgot the rear tie downs. No big deal, car was exactly where I parked it.
Takes 5 min to tie it down without crawling under the car.

John@Fabspeed 08-15-2016 08:25 PM


Originally Posted by myBailey07 (Post 13313542)
Many people do it, so there's no real reason I see why you can't continue doing it; however, consider installing trailer tie downs like these.

http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-981-...ear-tie-downs/

(They have front ones as well, I just don't see them on website now...)

Once you have them you will never go back. It takes seconds clipping the straps into them and it is MUCH more convenient than dealing with wheel straps etc.

Besides convenience there are other benefits as well. When you tie down your wheels your car's suspension is basically more free to move on the trailer. When you strap the car down by the frame your car is less free to move around on the trailer. This makes for a more stable pull. Also in case of an accident, it is better to have the car tied down by the frame and not have the added momentum of a car being more able to move more, jerk on the straps harder, wheels with room to rotate etc.

I recently had a fender bender on the highway trailering my car, hitting another vehicle from behind. Even though the impact was not too big and I had limited damage to the tow vehicle itself, the impact of the sudden stop in the trailer and loaded car was very noticeable. The rear straps that stopped the car from moving forward was pulled so tight and stretched that I had to cut them off to remove them. The car moved forward probably a good 2-3 inches on the trailer even though tied down VERY tight by the frame - And they were heavy duty motorsport straps. I don't know what the difference would have been tied to the wheels, but I am glad I did not have to find out.

So, the last lesson is that not using wimpy straps is probably just as important, if not more, than where exactly you tie the car down.

Just some thoughts...


Originally Posted by bella1 (Post 13518111)
http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-981-...ont-tie-downs/

Like this jack plate too. Might order all three. I have always had these on my trailered cars

http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-981-...ar-jack-point/

Thanks for the reference guys! Have a few left in stock if you want a set :)

Rear Tie Downs/Jack Point

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...da4932a4de.jpg

Front Tie Downs

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1c3203e09f.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2aba91f590.jpg


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