Forgeline GA1R Wheels and Hoosier R7 tires
#31
Curious what made you decide to add the camber plates if the other bits are able to get you to the camber needed?
#32
Probably overkill adding the camber plates but my thinking was that the camber plates would enable me to pull the top of the wheels in instead of pushing the bottom of the wheels out with the shims. Also, they weren't much more $$ and that was the recommendation from ATX so I followed it.
#33
Probably overkill adding the camber plates but my thinking was that the camber plates would enable me to pull the top of the wheels in instead of pushing the bottom of the wheels out with the shims. Also, they weren't much more $$ and that was the recommendation from ATX so I followed it.
#35
Rennlist Member
Nice running with you at COTA, even if I was a moving chicane.
Do you guys have a suggested parts list to get the alignment setup at ATX? I'm killing Cup2s at an alarming rate, so I would like to try an alignment and some 19" wheels and tires.
Do you guys have a suggested parts list to get the alignment setup at ATX? I'm killing Cup2s at an alarming rate, so I would like to try an alignment and some 19" wheels and tires.
#37
Burning Brakes
same question - I was told this a.m. that mine arrives April 1
#38
Mike: great running with you as well! It was a fun event. MVP does a great job.
Here is what I did and this may have been overkill but call Joe at ATX and ask him about his experience on mine and ShakeNBake's cars. I trusted his recommendations and am happy with the end result. Here are the parts that I can remember (will check my receipt when I get home):
Wheels: Forgeline GA1R open lug 19X9 ET 50 (F) 19X11 ET47 (R)
Tires: Hoosiers R7 265/35/19 (F) 295/30/19 (R)
Tarrett Camber Plates
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...smt-detail.htm
Tarret Toe Links (front and rear) with locking plates
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...9pr-detail.htm
Thrust Arms
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...010-detail.htm
Shims
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...him-detail.htm
I'm not sure that we used any shims given I added the camber plates and those would allow us to get additional negative camber by pulling the top of the wheels in and not just pushing the bottom of the wheels out. I've also emailed Joe and will post anything he suggests when I hear back from him.
Here is what I did and this may have been overkill but call Joe at ATX and ask him about his experience on mine and ShakeNBake's cars. I trusted his recommendations and am happy with the end result. Here are the parts that I can remember (will check my receipt when I get home):
Wheels: Forgeline GA1R open lug 19X9 ET 50 (F) 19X11 ET47 (R)
Tires: Hoosiers R7 265/35/19 (F) 295/30/19 (R)
Tarrett Camber Plates
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...smt-detail.htm
Tarret Toe Links (front and rear) with locking plates
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...9pr-detail.htm
Thrust Arms
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...010-detail.htm
Shims
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...him-detail.htm
I'm not sure that we used any shims given I added the camber plates and those would allow us to get additional negative camber by pulling the top of the wheels in and not just pushing the bottom of the wheels out. I've also emailed Joe and will post anything he suggests when I hear back from him.
#39
Just heard back from Joe and here is what he had to add to my post:
1. Tarett Camber Plates: Make sure that they specify that it’s a GT4 when they order them- don’t get the Clubsport mounts. You were correct in your statement- these are necessary to tuck the top of the rim/tire under the fender.
2. ERP front and rear toe links with rubber boots and locking plates. We had to slightly shave the rear outer ball joints.
3. ERP adjustable front thrust arms(Tarett calls them Tension Links)
4. Tarett solid(non adjustable) front control arm bushings. These coupled with the front thrust arms allow for easy and precise caster adjustment.
We did need shims to get the settings where we wanted them. I would do it the same way next time….someone could get away with adjustable thrust arm bushings but they make caster setting difficult, time consuming and less precise.
If you are in Austin and want to discuss with them: www.atxautosport.com
1. Tarett Camber Plates: Make sure that they specify that it’s a GT4 when they order them- don’t get the Clubsport mounts. You were correct in your statement- these are necessary to tuck the top of the rim/tire under the fender.
2. ERP front and rear toe links with rubber boots and locking plates. We had to slightly shave the rear outer ball joints.
3. ERP adjustable front thrust arms(Tarett calls them Tension Links)
4. Tarett solid(non adjustable) front control arm bushings. These coupled with the front thrust arms allow for easy and precise caster adjustment.
We did need shims to get the settings where we wanted them. I would do it the same way next time….someone could get away with adjustable thrust arm bushings but they make caster setting difficult, time consuming and less precise.
If you are in Austin and want to discuss with them: www.atxautosport.com
#40
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the help and parts list! I'll also give Joe a call to discuss getting my car setup.
#42
Rennlist Member
#43
#45
Ok, well if you are going to say words, please use more and explain why. If you understand why your point is valid, then it's great to show everyone the rational. If someone told you, or you read it, and you don't understand it, then that's good for all of us to know as well.
Here is my take on the geometry involved. I've simplified this a bit, and it's not to scale, but it illustrates why I think that camber plates can help tuck the fatter tires inside the fender - assuming there is interior clearance in the fender, which there is on the GT4.
Here is my take on the geometry involved. I've simplified this a bit, and it's not to scale, but it illustrates why I think that camber plates can help tuck the fatter tires inside the fender - assuming there is interior clearance in the fender, which there is on the GT4.