nlpamg

Thank you for this. Very helpful. Wow, that looks like a lot of work, lol.

doubleurx

FYI: Walmart is the place to buy oil. 5 Quart Mobil 0-40 for $25.00. It's always priced this low.

rockitman

Mike,

What is the jacking sequence to get all four corners in the air ? With my 996 I would start at the passenger side rear jack point...the front wheel would also lift... drop it on the rear stand, jack up the front the rest of the way, let it down on the stand and then do the same on the driver side. Is that correct ?

Mike in CA

rockitman, I don't know for sure if there is a "correct" way but what I did was raise both sides at the rear first, then move to the front. The problem is that the GT3 is very low and with two stands on one side the car would be tilted way over and it could be problematic getting the jack and lifting pad under a jacking point on the other side. As it was, I had to run one rear wheel up on a 2x6 to get enough clearance for the first jack, and when that proved to still be just a bit too low I raised the front end lift to gain the extra 1/8 inch that I needed.

In addition to not raising one whole side at a time, I didn't want to raise the front and then move to the rear, because with the front off the ground, as I raised one side at the rear I figured the heavy drivetrain would put a lot of stress on the chassis. So that left me with lifting the rear first and then the front, blocking the front wheels so there was no chance the un-braked end would roll during the process.

FWIW, that was my reasoning. Maybe someone can explain the correct procedure if I did it wrong.

rockitman

That makes sense. Rears first. I have 3" rubber wheel pads I can drive the fronts onto to get more front lip clearance when I raise both rears first.

mqandil

Very detailed and informative procedure. Thanks Mike and as usual you are always looking out for us. Thank you and God bless you.

Only comment I have is regarding using a torque wrench to tighten the tank & oil pan plugs. Indeed it is almost impossible to use one due to the tight space. However you might be able to use an inline electrical or pneumatic torque wrench/driver (http://www.expressassembly.com/catal...ewdriver-FL280) or use a preset torque limiter (such as the one in the link below), and in conjunction with a standard inline electrical or pneumatic driver. Just in case someone is concerned about overtorquing the plugs, although Mike's workaround is more than sufficient. Mark

http://www.protorquetools.com/prod-1...300-in-lbs.htm

Turbohead

Does this DIY oil change of break in oil affect you warranty ?

911dev

I do not believe Porsche uses break in oil.

Zucc

Thanks Mike for such an informative and detailed post.

Mike in CA

It's break-in oil only in the sense that it's the oil in the engine during break-in. Nothing special about it.

If you mean, in general, does changing your own oil affect your warranty, the answer is no, unless you forget to install new oil or tighten the drain plug or something.

I write the date and mileage of the change in my warranty book and keep the parts receipts. I suppose if someone were paranoid about it you could even take a photo or two of the process. Anyway, in decades of oil changes I've never been questioned by any manufacturer on a DIY change.

doubleurx

Agreed. Factory fill is Mobil 1 0/40. It's always a good thing to change the oil sooner than later. My first will be at 1500 miles.

911SLOW

Mike, nicely done my friend!

Thank you!

I'll copy it to the DIY section.


Best

John