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GT3 with light weight flywheel (LWFW) – you MUST replace crank pulley to track! (DIY)

 

Old 12-08-2010, 08:25 PM
  #16  
facelvega
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Originally Posted by Steve W View Post
...you are missing a very important friction washer that goes between the pulley and crank. It's a very thin feeler gauge thin piece of steel and I believe diamond coated for high friction - p/n 996.102.203.90.
.
Good catch! Here is the diagram, washer is the #25 part:






It should already be in place if you are doing this yourself. If someone else has been in there (as is my case) the washer could have been lost. Since I do not know if it is there or not, I will need to order one, then go back in to see what is there.





Originally Posted by Steve W View Post
...Also although bracing the crank by locking the car in gear and locking the rear wheels worked in your case, there is a possibility of breaking a gear tooth, ring gear, or placing abnormal twist to the crank, so the factory procedure calls for a factory pulley holder that inserts into the two holes you see on the pulley. The tool is quite long and large, and requires the removal of the rear center muffler and rear engine carrier in order to insert.



Agreed. I was not happy about bracing the wheels in order to tighten the bolt, but decided to risk it. If concerned, one can get the Porsche tool, the EVOMS pulley (which comes with a tool), or fabricate a tool sort of like this:




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Old 12-08-2010, 10:38 PM
  #17  
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Great write-up
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Old 12-08-2010, 11:02 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by facelvega View Post
Good catch! Here is the diagram, washer is the #25 part:






It should already be in place if you are doing this yourself. If someone else has been in there (as is my case) the washer could have been lost. Since I do not know if it is there or not, I will need to order one, then go back in to see what is there.










Agreed. I was not happy about bracing the wheels in order to tighten the bolt, but decided to risk it. If concerned, one can get the Porsche tool, the EVOMS pulley (which comes with a tool), or fabricate a tool sort of like this:





Nicely done.

Definitely use the pulley tool -- various generic tools work fine. Although the Porsche illustration shows the special tool diametrically opposite to the torque wrench, I was taught to have the two tools together and squeeze them together like a pair of bolt cutters -- this avoids side-loading the bearings and seals.

I don't know what purpose the intermediate washer might serve -- surface friction could well be the case. With that loctite on there, "nothing aint goin nowhere" but I imagine for "correctness" and peace of mind, you'll be going back in there. : )
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Old 12-08-2010, 11:31 PM
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...I was taught to have the two tools together and squeeze them together like a pair of bolt cutters -- this avoids side-loading the bearings and seals...
... and scraping/banging your knuckles should one of the tools let go.
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Old 12-08-2010, 11:33 PM
  #20  
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You do not reuse this friction washer, it's replaced whenever the pulley is removed. When your pulley dislodged, it's almost a sure thing it fell off. Few dealers have this part in stock and it needs to be ordered - about $35-$40. PIWIS instructions call for the mating surfaces of the crank and pulley where the washer goes to be immaculate and free of grease and dirt, and you do not want to touch the washer and contaminate the surfaces. The specs shown in the PIWIS still show the aluminum RS pulley to be torqued around 129 ft-lbs, but guys at PMNA recommend to torque to about 185 ft-lbs with red loctite on the bolt.
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:44 PM
  #21  
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And the ultimate bit of irony is that Porsche only started using the holding tool because technicians were shearing off the indexing pin when trying to remove the pulley.
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